Leon Speed

As 1/2 inch is 12.7 mm, that should be fine. Get some more length than spec, because you'll need to push the soft hoses around some in order to get them not to double but bend with a nice curve. I think the original hose (#20) is hard because it allows it to curve without doubling in the middle, not because the vacuum would cause it to collapse. The connection at the cannister is plastic, but it makes no difference. Oh, get some more plastic connectors for 12 mm inner diameter, you can use those in places where the soft hose bends too much and restricts flow.

Nicholbry

Thanks Aryan for the advice. Looks like I'll be ordering some 1/2" then...and a section of 3/8 for the 3rd hose at 9.5mm.

Now, I pray I haven't cracked the plastic connection at the canister...that would really stink after all that I've been through with this. I just assumed it was a metal extension off the canister (which is metal). Ahhh, never assume with these cars, eh?

Thanks again,
Nicholas

Nicholbry

Oh, forgot to ask. For this application, do I need to be concerned about getting hoses specific to "fuel injection" vs. "carburetor" systems? The hoses are rated at different PSI and I'm doubting that this matters much among these three hoses at the y-connector, but I wanted to be sure before installing. I suppose if I understood this whole carbon canister's involvement with the fuel system and vacuum valve I might could answer my own questions, but I don't.

Thanks again.

dr bob

I made a few notes when I did mine.

One thin I did that you didn't was to remove the cannister so I could pull/pry/bend/hammer on the hoses on the floor without worrying about fender damage. Take a look...

Nicholbry

Thanks for the info Dr. Bob. That was an excellent write up. Yeh, I'm at the point of pulling the canister now. Didn't realize, initially that I would have this much trouble. Unfortunately, that broken plastic piece is embedded a good 1/2" inside with no material protruding (or close to) the edge...making my pull a bit more difficult than most have experienced I believe. Spent another hour on it today and still no prize. I'm just going to have to replace the tube altogether it seems.

Here's a blurry pic of my Nemesis.

Leon Speed

I've never seen a metal cannister, but the you're right, never assume Might be interesting to post a picture when you can.

Edit, I see your picture now, that looks line plastic dude

Ummm I just asked for fuel hose 12 mm and went with that I assume hoses for fuel injection can handle more pressure, but I doubt that they will see a lot of pressure/vacuum for this application.

Nicholbry

Indeed, that hose is a tough plastic (vs. rubber) which is why I became so curious as to it's designed purpose (high vacuum, etc.) and wanted to be sure I replaced it with a hose that could stand up to the original hose's purpose (whatever that may be).

"but I doubt that they will see a lot of pressure/vacuum for this application."
That is what I needed to know.

Thanks again.

Nicholbry

For future reference to those who stumble across this thread, I ended up installing 3/8" ID standard fuel line (non-fuel injected type available at your local NAPA) and 1/2" ID to replace the factory hoses of similar sizes (not exact due to mm standards on the 928) at the Y-connector today. I bought 3 feet of both hoses. The factory hoses are not easily obtainable and will cost you more money than you need to spend (about $30 per foot). The NAPA hoses were like $1.80 a foot.

Two of the hoses require the 1/2" ID
1) line from cannister to the y-connector
2) line from y-connector to the vacuum valve

Third hose requires the 3/8" ID
3) line from the y-connector leading to the fuel return line

Be sure to replace with the original clamps; or if they are too badly corroded, don't use standard worm-screw clamps. Be sure to use clamps that are smooth on the inside with flared edges which are designed specifically for use with fuel lines so as not to cut the hoses when tightening down (see last pic).

Indeed, the canister is plastic, but fooled me until I looked more closely. Mine had some surface rust from the bracket which made me think the canister was rusting a little.

Until Nicole's part comes in I decided to also check out my windshield washer tank. WOW, what a mess (pic #1). No wonder the washer system wasn't working properly. My outcome after removing the metal insert in pic #2. I'll post the details of that job in a different thread. However, I want to encourage those of you who haven't checked it out already to take care of their rusting windshield washer tank and inlet spout while they are in there repairing their Y-connector.