Leon Speed

Option B looks to be the best configuration.

David L. Lutz

I am going with option "B"

Thanks to all

MTNKING

About option C, where's the line that vents under the rear bumper? I read where you put a filter at the end of that hose. But i think i'd rather connect it to a line that vents. Do you have a picture of the line or a diagram of such? Thanks (Would I be able to pass smog?)

Leon Speed

There's a diagram in post #1, you have to be a member to see it. Might make sense to get a membership. Alternatively look for PET 87-91 illustration 201-15, connect hose 19 to hose 20. Plug hose 7.

Edit: just saw you have a 85. Looks like the configuration is different. I think Porken has a picture posted somewhere for his 86.5. Should be the same.

dprantl

No...

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Leon Speed

Ah right, need to be registered.

Ben Allison

If you look in PET at the fuel tank for 1978, you'll see the diagram for the rear bumper vent (might be other years as well, not sure).

No, you won't pass smog with an open-air vented gas tank.

Chuck Schreiber

That reminds me of the chocolate shots we used to put on our ice cream as a kid!!

Nicholbry

David:
In the diagram you provided, hose #18 (pt# 477.201.747.C) does not show up on the big 3's search engines. My y-connector was broken, leaving a couple ends still embedded inside their lines. I managed to get one of the broken ends out (after about an hour) to save me from having to buy and re-route a new hose. However, I can't seem to get the broken y-connector material out of the aforementioned line #18. I spent 2 hours on it today in 98 degree weather with no success. Looks like I am going to need a section of replacement hose.

I was just wondering where you obtained hoses for your canister swap. Were they part of the canister kit? Did you end up using the existing lines without the same problem I ran into?

This line has a thinner wall and larger inside diameter than hoses #'s 7 & 20 from the diagram. Thanks for any help you (or others) might be in helping me wrap up this repair.

fraggle

I just used fuel line hose of various diameters and a bunch of brass fittings from home depot. The y connector on mine was completely disintegrated.

Not sure if there's any charcoal left in the canister but it won't be leaking anything anymore!!

chrly924s

The canister on my 81 had obviuosly fallen down someway and the front tire had ground about 1/2 of it away before i got the car. I just bypassed it. I don't suppose this matters, does it? Tennesee has no smog inspections to go thru (don't know how we escaped AL GORE on that!)

dr bob

To get the stub ends out of the hoses, grab a pair of water pump pliers (Channel-Locks is a trade name) and crush the plastic inside the hose. The broken pieces will then come out easily.

I replaced the 'hard' section of vent hose with a piece of vent hose from the local VW parts store. Same stuff that's been used since almost the beginning of time for the VW oil vent to air cleaner hose. I wanted to make sure there was no mechanical strain on the new plastic Y when it was installed, so the flex section and all the other hoses were secured together. No problems 10 years later.

Of course, right after I did all that, the first group fabrication for metal Y connectors was started. Nicole sells the stainless Y pieces now, I think.

Nicholbry

Thanks guys for posting.

I tried using the pliers to crush the broken piece on the inside to no avail. I literally spent 2 hrs. the other day in 98 degree temps at getting it out. The needle-nose pliers will only snip at small bits of the piece. I even got desperate and used a Dremel to carve out and thin down the wall of the rigid plastic piece in hopes of getting it to collapse a bit when using the pliers to crush it on the inside....still won't budge. I was close to loosing a couple fingers in the process and almost inadvertently made a wide-body front fender as I finally got a good bite with a large screw and pulled the dickens on it...till it violently lost it's bite.

The hose is unique to the others, in that it is made of a thin walled, flexible (but tough) plastic tubing instead of rubber. It is manufactured by Tecalan. Google revealed some references to Mercedes Benz matters, but difficult to find some useable information (dimensions applicable to my needs, the hose purpose in that application..will it work for mine as Tecalan makes all sorts of hoses, etc. ).

The ID measures approximately 12mm (close to 1/2") while the outside measures about 14.5mm. I don't know if this is under suction via the vacuum system or not (perhaps why it is made of a different material). If it is, would a rubber fuel line collapse after it gets warm?

Perhaps I'm over-thinking this thing and should just put a 1/2" fuel line on it and hope for the best. I don't know.

I ordered Nicole's stainless Y-connector and awaiting it's arrival.

BTW, the other hoses associated with the original carbon canister are not available through the big 3. I wanted to replace them as they are kinda cracked on the edges where it meets the y-connector. I'll list the info here for reference if someone should need it in the future. If you know specifically where, and what part numbers I can order to replace these using more economical fuel lines (Autozone, OReilly, etc)....do chime in. I prefer to take care of all that I can while I'm in there. Even though the first two hoses (listed below) are available through specific vendors, I prefer not to spend $100 (for the lengths I need + shipping from 2 separate vendors) to simply replace my originals that are only mildly spent.


Y-Conector Hoses (per PET)
999.181.168.50 (12mmID, 18.5mmOD x 250mm long(about 10")). This is the short hose from the Y-connector to the vacuum valve just inside the engine bay. Pelican parts had them at the time of this post....$38.00 ft.

999.181.716.50 (9.5mmID, 15.5OD x 530mm long (about 21 inches)). This is the hose from the y-connector to the fuel line.
DC automotive had them at the time of this post.....$20 ft.

477.201.747.C (12mmID, 14.5mmOD x 15" long(approximately)). Can't find this hose available anywhere. This is the hose that I am having trouble with that comes off the canister to the Y-connector.

Leon Speed

When you try to remove it, be careful not to pull too hard..I did the same thing and it finally came out.. first reaction then I saw that I knocked the cannister on the inside of the fender when pulling it out, that I broke the other end where it connects to the cannister

So I ended up getting a new cannister. But I needed new lines too because the new cannister is wired differently. I went to an automotive shop and got some flexible fuel lines with the right diameter and connectors. Only tricky thing is to route correctly so they won't bend and block off the flow.

Btw: no need to get the diameter exactly right..approximately will do fine but you'll need some hose clamps.

Nicholbry

"Btw: no need to get the diameter exactly right..approximately will do fine..."

For 12mm would you suggest 5/16th or 1/2". As mentioned before, I'm going with the stainless y-connector and I believe the connection at the canister is metal as well.

Thanks.