Oil cooling lines leaking oil
#1
Oil cooling lines leaking oil
I had my car in the air today at a local shop to look things over before heading to SITM and we found oil leaking on the drivers side behind the Rad in front of the engine. It looks like the oil cooler lines is the this the right area for these?
Cliff 87 $4 Murf # 44
Cliff 87 $4 Murf # 44
#2
Yes this is a good time to remove the oil cooler lines, the ATF cooler lines if you have any, the Fuel lines and the 2 hoses that go to power steering resivour if they are original (Replace these with factory parts)and go to a hose shop and have the lines replaced/recrimped, just did this on a customers car. Its not uncommon to find the oil cooler lines will swivel on the fittings since they are 20 years old, new hose and crimps solve this for another 20 years
#5
Up there I would check the oil is engine or ATF/power steering oil - power steering is much more likely to leak as its very penetrating and bad for hoses - I did mine a year or two ago because of a leak at a crimp. Cars have been known to catch fire from sprays of atf onto exhaust here.
As for engine oil cooler hoses - much easier if alternator is off, but doable with it place. The engine end is only hard part, as long as you counter hold the cooler adaptors (27mm) while undoing has from rad - 32mm. The bottom hose nut at block may (if alternator in place) need the wrench outside ground down a bit to get enough movement, and/or help from vise grips to loosen. Vise grips will make the unscrewing much easier. Once bottom hose is off, I removed the adapter from the block to gain access to the top connection - to hold the adaptor (27mm again) against unscrewing. I was told that sometimes a piece of alloy comes off in the adpator threads, and not to lose it -didnt see such a thing. Use a new copper/alloy washer on adapter, and threadlocker also advised. I had my hoses rebuilt (cheaper, quicker for me), but they made the bottom hose 1" longer, and it was enough to kink the hose and restrict it, so I have taken it back for rebuild.
FWIW, I had no leaks on any of the 4 cooler hoses, but the crimps on the gearbox lines were very easy to turn, the engine lines not easy at all, but the exterior seemed to be in bad shape. Once they were of, no way were old ones going back in.
hth
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k
As for engine oil cooler hoses - much easier if alternator is off, but doable with it place. The engine end is only hard part, as long as you counter hold the cooler adaptors (27mm) while undoing has from rad - 32mm. The bottom hose nut at block may (if alternator in place) need the wrench outside ground down a bit to get enough movement, and/or help from vise grips to loosen. Vise grips will make the unscrewing much easier. Once bottom hose is off, I removed the adapter from the block to gain access to the top connection - to hold the adaptor (27mm again) against unscrewing. I was told that sometimes a piece of alloy comes off in the adpator threads, and not to lose it -didnt see such a thing. Use a new copper/alloy washer on adapter, and threadlocker also advised. I had my hoses rebuilt (cheaper, quicker for me), but they made the bottom hose 1" longer, and it was enough to kink the hose and restrict it, so I have taken it back for rebuild.
FWIW, I had no leaks on any of the 4 cooler hoses, but the crimps on the gearbox lines were very easy to turn, the engine lines not easy at all, but the exterior seemed to be in bad shape. Once they were of, no way were old ones going back in.
hth
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k
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#8
Right you are. My lower oil cooling hose was wet. When I removed the alternator, I noticed the same condition for the PS line from the reservoir connecting to the pump, just above the oil cooler hose. Examining the PS hose clamp, I found it to be loose as a goose (do they have loose gooses down under?) and dripping. So, a little more exploration can save much more time and money.
#9
JPitman speaks wisely. If it is the oil cooler lines (I have seen that too) they will be VERY bad in order to leak .. they may look good. If the fittings turn in the rubber hose ... have them remanufactured. It costs 30 bucks.
#10
Yes, and very pretty ones too. here in the Pacific Northwest of the US, we have very TIGHT gooses, and they are so well-fed they can't lift-off, so they are all on disability, and drive around with those parking permits and annoy everyone. Not to mention the powered carts in the grocery store. They also like to have as many goslings as possible so they can receive gosling support for each. Many geese here manufacture meth in their own nests too, and almost all of them are on some sort of antidepressant. The State Supreme Court just lifted the ban on same-goose marriage, so now we're also seeing a slew of goose-on-goose marriages. Apparently they all vote Clinton too.