Marine Blue

This is absolutely right and I guess I should have clarified. It's true, you would start with the least abrasive product first if you're uncertain what it will take to correct the paint.

I should have said, assuming you have already selected the right polishes to correct the paint you start with the most abrasive of these and work to the finest.

MrGST

It's always in the details, isn't it?

IcemanG17

Single stage Guards red (or any single stage paint) is ROCK HARD....its very difficult to work with.....Marine Blue is a clear coat. so its easier to correct.....

I have tried many things short or wetsanding to remove scratches from my paint...hardly anything works...even the rotary buffer.... I'll just have to live with the little scratches....

linderpat

I'm too scared to do any of the above. My car's paint history (except for hood, front and rear covers, back of mirrors, and driver's side door, with appropriate feathering in, all of which I had repainted after purchasing) is unknown, and it is apparant that the car has had various of its parts repainted. Without knowing the paint history, I'm concerned that these products could strip off any inferior repaint areas, and leave me with a disaster...

nhporsche87

Afshin, good stuff. My garage houses the same cars as yours, same rims on my wifes Pilot too ......

Of course, my paint looks about 50 percent of yours. Think I will need someone to buff mine out for me. I'll have to find someone in the area thats reputable.

Looks fantastic

hacker-pschorr

Looks good!!!!

I'm in the middle of a similar project using the Meguiars new G110 D/A polisher. I've been spending a lot of time on the Meguiars forum, some very helpful people over there.

Here is the start of my project, pictures were added in post #8. They do not allow you to edit messages like we can here:

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23506

JHowell37

Most orbital polishers will do what you have mentioned when you really press down on them. For compounding and polishing purposes I use the best tool for the job which is a rotary. I personally don't see any real advantage to using an orbital. I think they're kind of gimmicky to be honest. As I said, anything that needs polishing or compounding gets the rotary, and waxing I can do by hand. The speed of an orbital that is relevant is the speed at which you throw it at your car. That is about the only way one of them will remove paint. Most rotary polishers have a max speed of 3000RPM. Most compounds and polishes are used between 1000-2000RPM. You shouldn't have to concern yourself with things like wattage provided you buy a buffer in your home country. My rotary is called a "Vector Waxxpro." It's a random Chinese made polisher that is sold at properautocare.com. They gave it a very high rating. I bought one locally. But this is the link where I first saw it.
http://www.properautocare.com/veprcipo.html
An identical one (only difference was the color) was sold by Harbor Freight for about $25-$30 but I can't seem to find it listed now. I did find a 7" 8500RPM grinder that looks identical but minus the speed control but that can't be used as a polisher unless fitted with a speed controller.

If you've got a beater car to practice with a rotary polisher isn't difficult to learn how to use. Mastering it will take a bit of time though. If you have the courage to stay in South Africa despite their national pastime having become farm killings, a rotary polisher shouldn't be too intimidating.

hacker-pschorr

Real advantage compared to what, doing it by hand? I agree 100% a true rotary is "better" but IMO not really necessary for the average home detailer. If my paint is bad enough to require the extra efford, I'll have my friend do it for me (who owns a detail shop). He uses D/A polishers all the time, unless the jobs calls for a rotary.

There is also a big difference between the orbitals you buy at the auto parts or hardware store and the Meguiars & Porter Cable D/A polishers.

Marine Blue

Ed,

I wouldn't be worried about the paint peeling off unless it's already doing so. RO's are not that agressive. Only thing I would be worried about is that if there's any overspray on the car it may become more obvious after polishing.

Dan,

I'm planning on setting up a BBQ towards the end of June for all the New England (others areas also welcome!) 928 guys/gals. I wanted to also hold a detailing seminar of sorts. I would be happy to show others how and what to use. Since I'm not much of a mechanic I figure this would be a way to contribute.


The roof looks great after polishing! You're observation after #83 is dead on, it does leave the paint hazy and somewhat dull. This is because it doesn't contain diminishing abrasives so it leaves very very fine scatches in the paint which need to be removed. By stepping to a finer polish you end up with stunning results.

When I lived in SoCal I used to set up Mercedes events with Mike all the time. It's been a while since we've talked but I actually know him really well and I learned a ton about polishing from him. He used to send me samples when they were in formulation for comments and feedback. NXT Tech was one of those products and I remember trying three versions before the final was released. He's a genuine car nut and an expert when it comes to paint correction.

Chuck Schreiber

Afshin,

Did you claybar first? Thought I remembered seeing it from an earlier post. Great Results!!

JohanvdWalt

Thanks for your reply JHowell.

I will look into the Magiuars forum too, I'm sure I'll get a lot of info there.
I'm going to jump in and polish, if I screw it up I'll at least have a good excuse for a respray .

Marine Blue

I did Chuck. It didn't really need it but I did it anyways since the car is new to me.

I will post more pics after finishing the exterior detialing and two coats of carnauba

voskian

The good news is once you polished and get finish where it looks good , just keeping up with a regular cleaning and wax keeps it looking good. I had given my 89 silver 928 S4 an good polish 4-5 years ago and it still has a great reflection and shine. The car is garaged so that does help. Here are some pixs from yesterday after a good wax.

Bob Voskian
89 928 S4 - 80K miles and still going strong

Chuck Schreiber

Afshin, Yeah, post for sure!!

Bob, car looks great!

Rob Edwards

[Shameless hijack]

Brian-

You mentioned how hard the single stage paint is. I've noticed the same thing, using a 7424 and Griot's machine polish 3 on an orange Griot's pad. Of course the #3 is the lightest polish but I was afraid to go harsher. What do you like as an intermediate strength polish? I know the Menzerna stuff is touted in the concours forum but am confused by what is appropriate. Does anyone have any suggestions for a regimen for black single stage paint with some light scratches that are nonetheless too deep for the above polish? I last addressed the paint about a year ago, and did the following regimen:

1. Wash with Dawn
2. Clay
3. Wash again
4. Machine polish #3
5. Imperial Hand Glaze
6. Rejex




It looks great in online photos but in real life it's a different story.

Thoughts?