Brian B

I'm trying to install Carl's adjustable drop links in the rear of the shark. According to his instructions, I need to make the hole in the stock swaybar bigger to allow for the bigger bolt. I've been trying to drill out the hole, but the bit isn't making too much progress. Any idea which bit would be best? I bought a new Black and Decker bit, but it gave up the ghost and now it just spins without cutting...

Thanks!

Greggles

That's a thick piece of metal to drill.
3 recommendations
>Get several progressively larger bits so you're gradually expanding the hole.
> Use a drill press or at the least an electric drill
>Keep the metal lubed. WD40 would be my choice, but there is likely something better
Good Luck

Jim M.

A new Black and Decker drill doesn't tell us much. If it was just the common varity high speed steel (HSS) then I'm not surprized it gave up the ghost. Try titanium coated bits or a carbide bit. They are more expensive, but you get what you pay for.

Are you using a lubricant while drilling? A little oil in the hole your drilling not only lubricates the material, but cools the drill bit, makeing it last much longer.

How much bigger do you have to make the hole. Often it's much easier and sometimes faster to step drill the hole. That is go up one size with each drilling operation until you get to the desired hole size.

Brian B

I've been using light machine oil as a lube. As for the bit, I threw away the packaging, but it said it was for metal. Cost me about 10 bucks...

I'll try the progressive drilling tomorrow. I was thinking about using the stock bolts, but they leave a little play in the heim joint, so I was worried about excessive forces damaging the link over time.

Jim M.

Your on the right track, continue with the lube and step drill it. DON'T use the smaller bolt in the heim joint! The slop will come back to bite you, no matter how tight you try to get it. In fact you may want to go to numbered drill bits as the increase in size is measured in thousands of an inch instead of fractions. What is the final size?

dr bob

Most damage to drill bits is done because of incorrect speed (too high) and incorrect pressure (not enough) on the bit. If/when the bit spins but doesn't cut, you need to step back and decide immediately what needs adjusting.

HSS (High Speed Steel) drill bits are generally OK for stuff like this, except for the heat treated part about the swaybar itself-- It's a spring and therefore needs to be pretty tough.

Recommendation: Resharpen the drill bit with a grinder if it's not a carbide bit. Then go at it again, this time at a much slower drill speed. Add pressure so the drill bit has a chance to bite and do some work. If you can't get enough pressure, you probably want to drop the bar and get it over to the drill press where you can get some better pressure on it. Use a LOT of coolant on the bit. Light machine oil is probably OK, but you need to get a lot more on there to keep the bit and the swaybar metal cool as you drill. No mater what, avoid just spinning the drill bit in the hole without cutting. The localized heat will dull the bit while you do a little local heat-treating of the swaybar metal. Neither of those is a good thing.

Lizard928

Most bits are not HSS,
HSS bits are not bad for most things, but they are not the best.
Carbide, cobalt, and others like that are the best.

The smaller the drill bit the faster you need to turn, the larger the drill bit is the slower you need to spin it. Pressure isnt as much of a concern for keeping it sharp.

Brian B

I need to get the hole up to half an inch, so I have a tough road ahead. I'm going to go to Lowes or Home Depot tonight and get some better bits.

Thanks for all of the input!

ew928

Home Depot should have these:

Titanium Nitride step drill bits. Not much reach but lets you step up the drill size with one bit. Just drop lots of cooling lube on it.



Get the one with more incremental steps since the swaybar is so stubborn.

jon928se

Given the swaybar is spring steel or something similar I'm thinking it may well work harden if you drill it with a blunt drill, similar to what Stainless does (My mettalurgy is a bit rusty like 25 years rusty but I know the stainless bit is correct) In which case drills of any sort are a non starter. By a bunch of cheap die grinding stones that are tapered with the max diameter close to what you want. Use these like you'ld use a drill - just force them in (AND WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES) - to open out the hole as they'll get rid of the work hardened steel as if it wasn't there. finish the job with a sharp expensive drill bit , lots of pressure and not many rpm.

dr bob

Jon: "My stainless metallurgy is a little rusty..."

Lloyd

I installed the same drop links and had to open up the sway bar hole. Go to an industrial supply or a specialty bolt/hardware store and buy a "good" drill bit. You don't have to spend alot of money, but the Home Depot/Lowes variety just won't cut it. They are not made for real men. The metal is tough, and it took about 1minute to drill through. Also use a 1/2 drill with some torque. Be careful not to break your wrist when the drill catches.

Brian B

I picked up a grinding point bit and a Hitachi "Black Gold" drill bit tonight. If I don't get any results, I'll try to find a bit at a specialty shop.

Its amazing how these little things turn into major productions...

Thanks, Guys!

jon928se

So did the grinding bit work ?

I really hate drilling out holes just a little bit - always seems to be a recipe for broken drill bits when they snag.

Anyone wanna see my broken drill bit collection ???

Brian B

The grinding bit worked a little, but not as well as I had hoped. I'm going to try that new Hitachi bit tonight to see if a combination of the two bits does the trick...