surging when cold - update
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I decided to replace my Temp II Sensor after my last thread here but to no effect. I did, however, notice the connector that attaches to it is starting to get a little old, mainly the insulation, but it does not snap on like it used to either (though it does stay on firmly). I also noticed a small pool of ATF where it had been sitting and drops of it off the bottom of the transmission pan. Could it be possible that this problem is caused because of a leak in the transmission somehow? It almost vanishes when it's warm. I have also had a very rare issue of my transmission refusing to shift up out of first sometimes. Could they be related or is there no way?
Thanks for any ideas. I'm starting to think I need to just get a bunch of those connector kits from 928 motorsports and replacing all of those in the engine bay (injectors, temp sensor, etc.).
Thanks for any ideas. I'm starting to think I need to just get a bunch of those connector kits from 928 motorsports and replacing all of those in the engine bay (injectors, temp sensor, etc.).
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The first item is to eliminate vacuum leaks. Unmetered air is the most common cause of surging.
The HVAC system is a likely culprit. Eliminate it by disconnecting the vacuum feed at the firewall, from the brake-booster splitter.
The early cruise control units are vacuum operated. Eliminate it by disconnecting the vacuum feed at the firewall, from the brake-booster splitter.
The modulator valve on the A/T can be a problem. Eliminate it by disconnecting the vacuum feed at the firewall.
Check the "spider" at the back of the manifold for cracks.
Check all of the "rubber elbows" in the engine compartment for cracks.
Check that all of the vacuum fittings on the throttle body are connected.
Check the vacuum feed to the EZK if your car has that.
If you eliminate these things one at a time, with the engine running, and let it settle for about 30 seconds, you might just isolate the specific issue in this manner..
The HVAC system is a likely culprit. Eliminate it by disconnecting the vacuum feed at the firewall, from the brake-booster splitter.
The early cruise control units are vacuum operated. Eliminate it by disconnecting the vacuum feed at the firewall, from the brake-booster splitter.
The modulator valve on the A/T can be a problem. Eliminate it by disconnecting the vacuum feed at the firewall.
Check the "spider" at the back of the manifold for cracks.
Check all of the "rubber elbows" in the engine compartment for cracks.
Check that all of the vacuum fittings on the throttle body are connected.
Check the vacuum feed to the EZK if your car has that.
If you eliminate these things one at a time, with the engine running, and let it settle for about 30 seconds, you might just isolate the specific issue in this manner..