6mil928

Ok here's the result of the mod. Got it all done really pretty easy. Bad thing is I still have the same problem almost exactly. Not sure where I'm headed. Could this be a bad battery? It never has trouble starting or cranking. This problem is killing me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!???????????

Landseer

Maybe its time to pop the cover off the 14 pin connector and carefully clean the barrel connectors and female receptacles, basically check through all the basic connections / wires.

What is the condition of the wiring harness that includes the alternator and starter? You might have a high-resistance section / break or near-break... be patient, its just parts, you'll figure it out.

Jack Riffle

A little bit of Deja Vu for me. The Delco didn't cure my problems either. The 928 Motorsports 200 Amp alternator is pricey for sure, But that rascal will power pretty much anything I feel like turning on, even at an idle. I don't expect to ever have to buy another alternator as this one is built very heavy duty. Just my .02.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

I bought Carl's 175 amp. Looking forward to the improvement.

Tampa 928s

Should you not be careful not to over tightening your belt and ruin the bearings!
You should have some deflection on the belt when tight.

Landseer

Jason has said his wiring has been pretty badly messed-with. His 14 pin hasn't been cleaned right yet.

Not sure that slamming more power into his circuits is the next step.

But I agree, the 928 Motorsports high-amp unit has great advantages, once the rest of the wiring is sorted.

6mil928

Here's what I posted on the other Delco thread.

Alan does the amp meter read the battery or the alernator output? My battery was close to dead. I cleaned the jump terminal and no change. I pulled the ground of the battery while running and the car stays running. I've got the pod tore apart now. While in there I changed the speedo gear that was bad(Still speedo doesn't work ). Readings I get at the jump terminal are 14.56 but if I remember correctly my meter wasn't reading corectly last time so I need to get a new one before I can believe my readings. This thing is making me mental. I also swapped the guage and the resistor and no change. The light lights up as usual on start up. This thing is killing me. A whole day wasted and I'm no better off than I was before I started.

6mil928

I'll be doing the 14 pin terminal tomorrow. There's some bad wiring there. It's been probed to death on several wires. How does that thing come apart for cleaning? Does it just come apart in 2 pieces? I'm seriously considering changing the wire harnes that goes to the starter and alternator and back to the 14 pin connector. Any one done this or a complete engine wiring harness? Cost? Thanks for the help guys. Jason

Alan

Well its a voltmeter and it measures what I refer to as battery or system voltage (depends). The battery and alternator are connected via a big fat cable so to most intents they are virtually the same voltage. the guage in the pod is connected to the central electric panel and indirectly measures the alternator output - but its a bit remote for the best accuracy.

I refer to it as "Battery Voltage" when the ignition is off or in accessory or ignition with the car not running.

I refer to it as "System Voltage" when the engine is running and the Alternator is generatting some current.

The system voltage level may be anywhere from below the normal battery voltage (say ~11v) all the way up to the normal regulated alternator output (up to ~14.5 volts). the level actually achieved depends on the alternator RPM's, alternator capacity and the current load provided by the vehicle neccesities (engine/fans/battery charging ) & 'optional' accessories (radio, lights, AC/blower...)...

BTW - Never ever dissconnect the battery on a running vehicle - the alternator output regulation can be lost. This is not ever a useful test of an alternator...

Alan

6mil928

Thanks Alan. Tomorrow after work I'll be putting the car back up on the ramps and checking the starter wiring. Then I'll be doing the 14pin connector. Any other advice for me? Oh yea I'll just post on this thread so I don't muddy up the other longer Delco post. Jason

Dennis Wilson

6MIL928,

Now would be a good time to check the positive batery cable for corrosion and high resistance. After 27 years it may need replaced/rebuilt.

Dennis

69gaugeman

My 83 has 6 rib as does my spare 82 motor.

(I answered as you seem to be getting ignored.....)

AL-Shark

My 1983 US has the ribbed belt, too. When I switched mine to a Delco 2 years ago, I had to change to the smallest diameter ribbed pulley I could find. I do not recall the exact diameter, but once I changed the pulley, my charge at idle increased enough to handle additional items (like an electic cooling fan).

6mil928

Ok Alan took volt readings tonight with a good Fluke meter. At the battery I got 12.87 not running and 14.01 running. At the jump post up front I got 12.87 not running and 13.56 running. I tore in to the 14 pin connector and most wires in it are shot with corrosion and from being probed. The connector housing is also broken. I'm either going to have to find a used harness with a salvageable 14 pin connector with wires or I need a whole new harness. A complete new harness is by far the best solution. I'm including pics of my 14pin connector to horrify the audience. Cover the children's eyes

Alan

Yes that does look kind of 'manky'... how are the jump post connections - those are actually more crucial to this voltage drop issue....

It looks equally messy from outside. Make sure the ring terminals and post are bright clean before it goes back together. I'd suggest you do the same at the big starter terminal connections too. You have too big of a voltage drop on the cables right now...

Test from battery negative terminal (direct) to the jump post as well as from a local engine ground to the jump post - any difference in voltage?

if there is clean the battery posts and rear ground point and consider replacing the battrey ground strap.

Alan