I almost have my t-belt merit badge. Every step beyond "remove ground strap" seems like a show stopper <g> and then he converts to a score. I've searched and prevously printed everything I could find on the process and I'm indebted to Rennlist, etc. It says tap it and tap it some more (the orange inner wheel against the crank with the TDC markings is called the harmonic balancer, yes?). It is not moving. What are the tricks besides a puller?

Also, I had to unhook the flexible hose to the slave to get the slave cylinder out. More fluid than (a little) I wanted dripped out. Do I have to do the complete bleed starting with wheel furthest from the master?

Thanks.

 

Good question. I didn't see any bolt holes that might make the balancer eligible for pulling and mine's pretty much on for life as well.

I'm hesitant to hit it with anything for fear of wrecking the soft bits that actually dampen.

 

Sorry dudes but mine slid right off. Ha...

 

a puller may work just fine. The reason that some say not to use it is that you may damage the rubber on the damper. This is true if you are a nucklehead.

Just make sure you are gentle. Watch for deflection of the rubber. As soon as you see any, be very careful not to crank too hard. The rubber is designed to deflect some. I would MUCH rather gently pull on the balancer with a puller than to bang on it.

Start with some penetrating oil just for added security.

 

At the recent TB/H2O party on John E's '83 we had much the same experience. The disadvantage of tapping/pulling on the balance is that it seems to get 'cocked'..the trick seemed to be to get it straight and then pull...a bit of magic there but keep trying. We took turns trying the wiggle/pull bit w/o much success and then Tom F. grabbed it and just pulled it off. We didn't use a puller.

On the clutch slave, we also had to undo the fitting to remove it. Just tried to minimize the fluid loss with a finger and then re-attaching it to the slave once we pulled it. I think John used a pressure bleeder once we re-attached it but didn't have any problems w bleeding it....928 specialists sells them cheap and they're great..they also have a one-way bleed valve for the slave ($7 ?) that I'd recommend. On my '82 the rod would pull out of the slave and so I could remove it w/o undoing the line..both on the old one and the new one I put on. John's didn't seem to want to come out so we undid the line...no real problems encountered and if you've read the threads on this you know that bleeding the clutch circuit can be a pain. Don't know if we were lucky or there just wasn't much chance for air ingress.

good luck,
Jim

 

Thank guys.