huskydog

New 88 928S4, and the seats were stcuk all the way back. I searched to postings and found the reason, nut on seat stop bevels itself into soft stop washer. I was able to work the passenger seat loose, but the driver seat will not budge. I can turn the manual adjust, but I am afraid to strip the gears. Read posting regarding cutting the stop washers off, but unless I buy a small dremel tool I can not get to them. Anyone have any other ideas?

Also the rear hatch release, just clicks rapidly. I assume the motor is bad? I tried adjusting the motor up and down, and even tried the small piece of plastic shoved down behind the receptor, still no luck, any ideas here?

Jay Wellwood

Try using the 4mm (or is it 6mm) hex head in a ratchet to posiiton the seat manually. The hole is located in the dust cover at the front of the seat.

Be careful - the gears could strip - but will likely be okay. If the motor operates (or trys to) in the back direction, maybe swap the leads around electrically can 'fool' the motor. I'd try the manual sure fire method though.

Rear hatch motor is getting power - just not adjusted right. Some have glued a penny on top of the plunger. Worth a try (don't glue until certain!).

hth-

drnick

id just changed my seats for the sports option with manual ajustments as well as electrical only to find that the drivers side wouldnt recline completely. i found 5 pence and some francs lodged in the reclining mechanism, removed with needle nosed pliers. the other way to get stuck objects out im told is to remove the seat and vigourously shake it upside down!
cheers,

dr bob

If the seat is stuck so that the motor is trying to move it but can't, you WILL strip the little nylon bevel gear if you try to use the manual tool. You can verify that the motor is trying by watching the motor housing on the front of the seat as you work the switches. If trying, the motor housing will move up or down, and you should also hear the little gearcase in there go clunk as you do the switch.

To fix the problem the dr bob five-minute way, remove the little plastic cover from the motor in front of the seat (small phillips screwdriver) to expose the motor and the little gearcase. You'll see that fragile nylon manual gear and know then why you don't want to crank on that by hand when the seat is stuck.

There are cables running from the gearcase to the leadscrews on each side of the seat. These are like speedo cables of old, with square ends swaged on them. The cable on one side is held in directly by that little wire clip, and on the other side seems to be just a slide-over with the cable housing once the clip is removed. Remove the clip, noting the original orientation for reinstallation in a few minutes, and pull both cables out of the gearcase. Take a small locking pliers like a Vise-Grip, and grab that square end on one of the cables so you can turn the cable in the housing. Don't pull the cable out of the housing, just turn it gently to move one side of the seat forward. Repeat on the other cable to get the other side moving and off the stop. You will want to get the seat centered in the motion between the two cables, so that it isn't cocked to one side when you plug it back together. Then plug it back together. Don't forget that wire clip!


Some owners have reported that they can get somebody to sit in the back seat and push forward on the bottom of the seat while working the motor switches. I've had no luck with that, probably because I can't get anybody into the back seat when the front is at full-back position.


Good luck!

huskydog

Thanks to all, I tried everything to loosen the washers that the stop nuts ground themselves into. Finally took a soldering iron and burned through the washer, which released the nut and the seat moves...yeah!