Dim instrument cluster light - fixed
06-16-2003, 02:06 PM
#16
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Location: St. John's, NF, Canada
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I sort of combined Azir's light tube rehab with an LED solution for my rebuild over the winter. I am pleased with the results from a number of angles (no pun intended).
I did not go as far as to remove the entire light tube (which would have been the best approach). I just removed the old silver paint from bottom portion with non-acetone nail polish remover (acetone-based stuff will "melt" the plastic), masked the area really well and repainted with chrome-effect spray paint. I think Azir's chrome tape is a better solution...wish I had thought of it! Not sure what the long term effects of heat will be in the tape adhesive, however.
I also folded up some aluminum foil and put it inside the bulb housing, similar to Azir's approach. This would be very important for improving the performance of bulbs. I later decided to use LEDs, so it was not as important to me.
After much research and a few quick tests, I decided to build LED replacements for the stock illumination bulb holders. Others have modified the cluster housing to hold LEDs (and this is a very effective approach). I fashioned small PC boards with 2 superbrite white LEDs (each worth about 2500mcd) on each that effectively replace the bulbs in their holders and use stock connections for power. The LEDs point downward right into the light tubes (at right angles to the insertation axis of the bulb holder)...took some trail and error to get the right mounting depth and angle.
I am happy to report that the setup works great. The bluish-white light from the LEDs has a very slight blacklight effect on the orange and white markings on the gauges. Using the light tubes spreads the light more evenly and negates the relatively narrow beam of the LEDs. Also, the LEDs develop much less heat than the bulbs did...which has got to be a good thing in the longrun. Oh, and one point of note: One of the illumination bulbs is wired (think it is the left-most bulb as viewed from the back of the cluster). This is not an issue with bulbs, but is with LEDs (which are polarity sensitive). One of the LED boards had to be constructed with reverse polative to the other 2. The wiring diagrams for the cluster can show you which one is the odd man out.
The most startling thing about the install is that the stick dimmer works! I had been told to expect the need to jumper out the dimmer, but it works just fine...not that I will be dimming them much.
I would suggest using the most powerful superbrite white LEDs you can find. The 5mm 2500mcd units I used work OK, but units in the 3000-4000mcd would be better and allow some room for dimming. Units in this range are available if a little pricey.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
I did not go as far as to remove the entire light tube (which would have been the best approach). I just removed the old silver paint from bottom portion with non-acetone nail polish remover (acetone-based stuff will "melt" the plastic), masked the area really well and repainted with chrome-effect spray paint. I think Azir's chrome tape is a better solution...wish I had thought of it! Not sure what the long term effects of heat will be in the tape adhesive, however.
I also folded up some aluminum foil and put it inside the bulb housing, similar to Azir's approach. This would be very important for improving the performance of bulbs. I later decided to use LEDs, so it was not as important to me.
After much research and a few quick tests, I decided to build LED replacements for the stock illumination bulb holders. Others have modified the cluster housing to hold LEDs (and this is a very effective approach). I fashioned small PC boards with 2 superbrite white LEDs (each worth about 2500mcd) on each that effectively replace the bulbs in their holders and use stock connections for power. The LEDs point downward right into the light tubes (at right angles to the insertation axis of the bulb holder)...took some trail and error to get the right mounting depth and angle.
I am happy to report that the setup works great. The bluish-white light from the LEDs has a very slight blacklight effect on the orange and white markings on the gauges. Using the light tubes spreads the light more evenly and negates the relatively narrow beam of the LEDs. Also, the LEDs develop much less heat than the bulbs did...which has got to be a good thing in the longrun. Oh, and one point of note: One of the illumination bulbs is wired (think it is the left-most bulb as viewed from the back of the cluster). This is not an issue with bulbs, but is with LEDs (which are polarity sensitive). One of the LED boards had to be constructed with reverse polative to the other 2. The wiring diagrams for the cluster can show you which one is the odd man out.
The most startling thing about the install is that the stick dimmer works! I had been told to expect the need to jumper out the dimmer, but it works just fine...not that I will be dimming them much.
I would suggest using the most powerful superbrite white LEDs you can find. The 5mm 2500mcd units I used work OK, but units in the 3000-4000mcd would be better and allow some room for dimming. Units in this range are available if a little pricey.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
06-16-2003, 02:47 PM
#17
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LEDs work great!
<a href="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/robmb/cluster/3p1.htm" target="_blank">http://mywebpages.comcast.net/robmb/cluster/3p1.htm</a>
<a href="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/robmb/cluster/3p1.htm" target="_blank">http://mywebpages.comcast.net/robmb/cluster/3p1.htm</a>
