86.5 to 87 Engine swap
#1
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I am installing an '87 engine in a 86.5 automatic car.
Has anyone documented the electrical differences for this swap? I also have an '87 electrical panel if necessary.
Has anyone documented the electrical differences for this swap? I also have an '87 electrical panel if necessary.
#4
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Off the top of my head, and engine related only, the '87 has wiring differences for the the intake flappy, knock sensors, and cam hall sensor that the 86.5 car doesn't. The '86.5 has the intake air temperature sensor in the airbox that the '87 doesn't. The '87 has a 60-2 crank position toothed wheel and the '86.5 has a 100-1 toothed wheel, so the appropriate ECU for the wheel that will be on the engine has to be used. The '86.5 EZF gets it's load signal from a manifold vacuum line, and the '87 EZK gets it's load signal from the '87 LH.
I don't know offhand, but the ECU coding plug, MAF CO adjustment wiring, and gas tank venting valve may be different bbetween the two model years as well.
I don't know offhand, but the ECU coding plug, MAF CO adjustment wiring, and gas tank venting valve may be different bbetween the two model years as well.
#6
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Tony,
I am lucky, but not that lucky. This one is actually FREE. It is a long story, but I am installing Hammers engine for him as a trade deal for parts that he gave me last year. Are you still dodgeing Delta bullets?
Earl
I am lucky, but not that lucky. This one is actually FREE. It is a long story, but I am installing Hammers engine for him as a trade deal for parts that he gave me last year. Are you still dodgeing Delta bullets?
Earl
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#9
Road Warrior
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fuel rails, pumps, cooling fan setup, for starters.. also the flywheel depending on which my ecu's you use. newer has flappy, knock sensors which is why I used the later ECU's.
if you take the later ECU's, it's super easy if you use the later harnesses. only the fuel pump wire needs jumping to full time on vs only w/the starter engaged, I think... prolly want to use a sharktuner for that motor![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
if you take the later ECU's, it's super easy if you use the later harnesses. only the fuel pump wire needs jumping to full time on vs only w/the starter engaged, I think... prolly want to use a sharktuner for that motor
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#10
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only way to do it is to use the S4 engine wiring harness. I believe that the wiring harness is the same for the ign componants in the engine bay.
Not sure if the 86.5 CE panel is interchangeable with the 87+ panel.
Not sure if the 86.5 CE panel is interchangeable with the 87+ panel.
#12
Nordschleife Master
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As stated by 928SS the fuel pump activation is different between the boards. So you will need to modify the board to be activated by the right wire, or just have the pump come on with the key in the ON(and start) position. though in the event of an accident the fuel pump will not stop running.
#13
Road Warrior
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no need to swap boards, iirc. didn't on mine anyway.
everything else just bolts right up/cept for the fuel dampers/rail things.. gotta do some adapting there, but if you made it this far - should be a breeze![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
also make sure the coding plug is wired right. if no flappy, then the motor will blow up.... just kidding. but it is good for an easy 30ft lbs of extra tq![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
just noticed - nice damper!! might also think about one of doc brown's pan spacers. after thrashing my old gal at an AX and on some "test sweepers", my Oil pressure never even flickered... kinda neat for peace of mind.
oh, and his magic plenum spacers help a bit too, if he's got any laying around...
very nice looking lump, BTW
everything else just bolts right up/cept for the fuel dampers/rail things.. gotta do some adapting there, but if you made it this far - should be a breeze
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
also make sure the coding plug is wired right. if no flappy, then the motor will blow up.... just kidding. but it is good for an easy 30ft lbs of extra tq
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
just noticed - nice damper!! might also think about one of doc brown's pan spacers. after thrashing my old gal at an AX and on some "test sweepers", my Oil pressure never even flickered... kinda neat for peace of mind.
oh, and his magic plenum spacers help a bit too, if he's got any laying around...
very nice looking lump, BTW
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#14
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no need to swap boards, iirc. didn't on mine anyway.
everything else just bolts right up/cept for the fuel dampers/rail things.. gotta do some adapting there, but if you made it this far - should be a breeze![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
also make sure the coding plug is wired right. if no flappy, then the motor will blow up.... just kidding. but it is good for an easy 30ft lbs of extra tq![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
nice looking lump, BTW![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
everything else just bolts right up/cept for the fuel dampers/rail things.. gotta do some adapting there, but if you made it this far - should be a breeze
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
also make sure the coding plug is wired right. if no flappy, then the motor will blow up.... just kidding. but it is good for an easy 30ft lbs of extra tq
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
nice looking lump, BTW
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
No flappy, I'm using ITB's, hopefully that'll make up for the 30ft lbs I'm losing.
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I'm using one of Mike Simard's pan spacers. You can barely make it out in the pics.
Hammer