MichaelR

While messing with other things under the hood, I've cracked a dried-up plastic connector that I don't recognize. The two sides of the connector mount through a metal bracket next to the oil fill. They mount horizontal, and it appears to have three pins in it. The casing of mine cracked, and pieces fell off, so I taped it until I can do something better. What is this thing, anyway?

Come to think of it...almost ALL of the plastic pieces under the hood are cracking.

Michael
85S, AT, blk/blk

MichaelR

No one has a guess as to what this connector is? I though someone else might have run into this, and recognize the description. From all the pictures/diagrams I have seen, it looks like the same connector type as the knock sensor on an S4. Not even sure if the S has those.

Any guesses?

Thom1

Hi Michael,

That is probably the one that goes to the throttle body. Call one of the big 3 to determine for sure. It is probably not worth it to pull intake pieces, and replace it. Mine cracked while I had the intake off. I put clear silicon sealant on it to hold those prongs in place, and insulate them. Ugly, but effective. It seems that I could have bought the wire for $10-20. I am pretty sure that knock sensors started in 87. See the following thoughts I put together for ideas about intake removal, and useful newcomer information:

Intake Response

Hi Brittany,

I would recommend that you not remove the intake if possible. When I removed mine I had to replace all the rubber up there. This includes sleeves, elbows, hoses. The rubber has been cooked so much by now that it is stuck in an inflexible shape, and it will leak after it is disturbed. You may be able to get to vacuum elbows and hoses by removing the plastic air intake tubes and air filter housing. Medical hemostats can help to manipulate hoses and elbows in recessed areas. You will also need to replace intake gaskets after you remove intakes.

Look at the following timing belt document to find links, tools, parts, and manuals that will be helpful in various jobs:

Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement Essentials:

Removal:
You have to remove or loosen everything from the front of the engine including:
Fan and Throttle Linkage Console/Carrier
Alternator
A/C Compressor - loosen
Smog Pump
Power Steering Pump
Front Main Timing Belt Cover
Distributors
Front Distributor Timing Belt Covers
Tensioner – Rebuild it
Tensioner Console
Rollers
Pulleys
Water Pump
Upper Fan Shroud/Cowling
Fan Belts
Hoses

You can easily break off water pump bolts by over-torquing or removing stuck ones. It would be nice to have the engine cleaned first – without losing any original factory stickers. However, I would not drive the car for that after receiving a belt tension warning. I heartily recommend that you or your mechanic replace everything on this list while you are in there. Rollers have bearings that will become fowled by anti-freeze or mileage.

Special Tools:
Buy the aftermarket belt tension tool for around $50, and the flywheel holding tool for around $20.
Socket for front main pulley
Metric Allen Wrenches with 3/8” drive fit
Breaker bar and cheater pipe for pulley socket (not really special tools)
Metric deep sockets (not really special tools)
Universal, ratchet, and extensions for sockets (not really special tools)

Tool, Part, & Manual Suppliers:
928 Specialists at 828-766-9280, Devek, and 928 International 800-634-6117. Those “Big 3” can hook you up with about anything for the 928. Tweeks, Pelican, Automotion, etc. can also help with your needs. See the Rennlist site for contact information. The other tools are available from Sears, and most auto parts stores. See ebay for PET 5 parts CD, and deals on parts.

Online Support:
Join the free Rennlist 928 Web Board. The web interface is the most effective that I have used. The email groups give an additional audience, but less sophisticated interface. See: <a href="http://www.rennlist.org/" target="_blank">http://www.rennlist.org/</a>
Also see the 928S4VR Forum at: <a href="http://www.voy.com/55895/" target="_blank">http://www.voy.com/55895/</a>

New Parts & Supplies:
Water Pump – Porsche rebuilt will do, not necessarily new
Water Pump Gasket
Timing Belt
All other Belts
Rollers (3)
Aluminum Safe Antifreeze (Warning: Dexcool can harm older cars)
Distilled water (to be used with antifreeze)
Thermostat
Thermostat sealing ring
Radiator Hoses (2)
Timing Belt Idler bushings (2)
Radiator Drain Plug
Engine Block Drain Plug Seal Washers – metal (2)
Tensioner needs:
O-ring
Gasket
Boot/rubber end cover – looks like a hollow half doughnut
Boot Clamp
Mobil 1 synthetic 75w90 weight gear oil
Optional Parts & Supplies:
Front Seals: Main, Oil Pump
Clutch (pulley driven) Fan Bearings
Silicon Fan Clutch Fluid – from Toyota - Thickest part number version is 08816-10001, and recommended by Wally Plumley.

Timing Belt Tension Check:
You will need the belt tension tool to check tension after approximately 1,500 miles and 10-15k mile intervals afterwards. Remove the passenger side timing belt cover (at the cam gear, remove distributor first), and check the tension. Timing belt and/or water pump failure is common after 60k miles on the 928. Take belt tension very seriously. That is the Achilles heel.

Useful Manuals:
The Parts and Technical Reference Catalog is a great source of diagrams, part numbers, etc. However, There is a PET CD available on ebay for about $15 that contains more diagrams and data. The version 5 seems to be current. It just excludes some of the technical bulletins. The factory manuals provide procedures that are very helpful. Factory manuals are available on microfiche for about $30. Prices are for year 2001. Owner’s manual is a must. The Clinton manual does not help much. Most of the above are available from the big 3.

Optional Work:
While you have the pulley driven fan off, you may want to replenish the silicon with Toyota supplied fan clutch fluid. You may also wish to replace the front main seal, and the oil pump seal while they are relatively exposed. Those seals are tough to change. May replace the Clutch Fan Bearings.

Detailed Procedure & Photo Links:
Greg Nichols’ page has troubleshooting procedures for the timing belt light and more at:
<a href="http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm" target="_blank">http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm</a>
Tony’s page has pictures and procedures:
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/index.htm" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/index.htm</a>
John Pirtle’s site goes into great detail, with awesome pictures:
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html</a>
Link to Adobe Acrobat Reader document that has numerous service procedures. Download or open it here:
<a href="http://www.jageng.com/sharkbit_2.htm" target="_blank">http://www.jageng.com/sharkbit_2.htm</a>
Another site with written procedures:
<a href="http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/" target="_blank">http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/</a>

HTH,
Good luck,
Thom Ross
The Great Dark Blue
86.5 928 S3, 4 Speed Auto

Here is a general list of items needed to replace the Tbelt...
Item No. Price
Timing Belt* 1 $44.00
Flywheel Locking Tool 1 $16.00
Thermostat 1 $25.00
Thermostat O-ring 1 -
Tensioner Boot* 1 $6.00
Tensioner Boot Clamp* 1 $5.50
Tensioner Gasket* 1 $12.00
Tensioner Inner Seal* 2
Tensioner Large Roller* 1 $55.00
Tensioner Idler Bushing*1 $1.70
Water Pump* 1 $119.00
Water Pump Gasket* 1 $1.65
Belt Tension Tool 1 $59.00
Accessory Belts 3 -
--------------------
Jay
'87 S4 Auto
CYOUL8R

Randy V

Thom, it may be neater to post the link for a particular previous discussion.

Just a suggestion.

MichaelR

Thanks, Thom. I'll use that info...probably do the sealant trick, too.

Hey, from NC, huh? Me, too...just not currently. I bet the 928 would be even more fun to drive on some twisty mountain roads than here in the flatlands of Houston. Wish I could make the trip for Sharks in the Mountains, but that's a long, long drive.

Popculture

I just looked on the front of my 85 and that connector looks to be a plug connector to hookup for diagnostic purposes. Since the wires from it run under the intake most likely for th FI system.

Jay Wellwood

KNock Sensors began with the S4 model (ignition EZK).

These little rascals are located deep under the Intake (up to my elbows right now under the Intake), and are bolted to the Valley portion of the block between the heads.

In as far as the connector your refer to - sounds like a typical Bosch electrical connector - but to what? I don't have a pic in front of me - nor the SM's - sorry not much help.

Thom1

Michael,

My truly excellent friend and highly esteemed colleague - Jay Wellwood confirms the knock sensor model year. (Jay, thanks for the gracious help that you continue to provide. Did you receive that video back? I hope you don’t mind that I quoted you in my timing belt piece.) 1987 is the first year of the s4 and knock sensor. I am pretty sure that the 1986.5 is the only s3.

Randy,

Of course the lengthy post is redundant for seasoned professionals. I am guilty of posting redundant information. I hope that newcomers benefit from just getting useful information in one response. I imagine that newbees would have trouble cutting to the chase on links to lengthy threads. I sure do. It seems like a lot of work for me to figure out how to point people to succinct information without all the other noise. Hope this presentation gets to the point. Even though that post seems like more, is it less, and therefore, more?

peace