Brake Fluid Reservoir Removal
12-22-2002, 06:41 PM
#1
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Brake Fluid Reservoir Removal
I changed the rubber grommets on my 81 several years back, and don't remember it being too much of a problem. Now I'm tugging as hard as I dare on the one on my 89 and am afraid to snap it off. It's not like it isn't lubricated! I guess I'll try warming it up with a shoplight, to soften the rubber a little. Anyone have any encouraging words?
12-22-2002, 07:34 PM
#2
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Mine were stuck pretty hard.
I used a screwdriver and pryed with underneath, moving it around and at the same time pulled with the other hand.
A glove for protection of your hand is recommended when the reservoir pops out.
The fender edge is quite sharp when your hand hits it from underneath....
Talking of own experience.
Good luck !
I used a screwdriver and pryed with underneath, moving it around and at the same time pulled with the other hand.
A glove for protection of your hand is recommended when the reservoir pops out.
The fender edge is quite sharp when your hand hits it from underneath....
Talking of own experience.
Good luck !
12-22-2002, 08:23 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
My suggestion would be to remove the Master Cylinder, then place it in a vice.
A little more work but it's easier for removal and reinstallation.
Replacing the res. while the MC is in place is extremely challenging. (At least for me it was).
When I replaced mine - I removed the entire MC unit then removed the res. I then reinstalled the MC without the res. thinking that I could just reinstall the res. with no problem.
I found out that the 'work area" did not permit an easy installation. New grommets are tight, and the force needed to push down on the res. was greater than I could dispense; because of the work area and the fear of damaging the Booster or Brake Lines. I had to remove the MC, once again, and install the Res.
The right MC bolt is a little tricky to reach but it is feasable. I used a small 13mm (or 12?) box end and the smallest 13 (or 12?) mm socket I had in my tool bin.
The bleed sequence is as follows
MC - RR - LR - RF - LF.
Good Luck and I hope this Helps.
A little more work but it's easier for removal and reinstallation.
Replacing the res. while the MC is in place is extremely challenging. (At least for me it was).
When I replaced mine - I removed the entire MC unit then removed the res. I then reinstalled the MC without the res. thinking that I could just reinstall the res. with no problem.
I found out that the 'work area" did not permit an easy installation. New grommets are tight, and the force needed to push down on the res. was greater than I could dispense; because of the work area and the fear of damaging the Booster or Brake Lines. I had to remove the MC, once again, and install the Res.
The right MC bolt is a little tricky to reach but it is feasable. I used a small 13mm (or 12?) box end and the smallest 13 (or 12?) mm socket I had in my tool bin.
The bleed sequence is as follows
MC - RR - LR - RF - LF.
Good Luck and I hope this Helps.
12-23-2002, 09:28 PM
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Thank you, gentlemen.
I was afraid to pry with a tool, for fear of breaking the plastic reservoir. I'll heat it up a bit & try that. Again, I don't remember the job on my 81 being this difficult. When I fail... I guess I'll be pulling the m/c.
I was afraid to pry with a tool, for fear of breaking the plastic reservoir. I'll heat it up a bit & try that. Again, I don't remember the job on my 81 being this difficult. When I fail... I guess I'll be pulling the m/c.
