How to Shorten the 5spd Shifter- a newbie write up
04-23-2002, 05:23 PM
#1
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pacifica, CA--Land of Fog
Posts: 628
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How to Shorten the 5spd Shifter- a newbie write up
Thanks to all who responded last week to my messages! I undertook my second shark project this weekend and was very happy with the results. So that others might follow on the shoulders of you giants, here is a write up of the process that should be very easy to follow. Please feel free to cut this to any of your respective sites with how-to sections.
Shortening the 5spd. Shifter
What you will need:
Dremel cutter and grinder wheel OR hacksaw and metal file
Ruler/tape measure
Lithium grease (optional)
Elbow Grease
Bedsheet or old blanket willing to be sacrificed
Masking Tape
Time: 1 hour
What to do:
First, you need to remove the shifter from the shifter handle. This is a two step process. Step one is to remove the shift boot plate from its
clipped in position in the center console. The boot plate is the rectangular base plate that the leather of the boot sits on/in. There are clips on all four sides. They are plastic though, and can break. Try gently easing the plate forward or backwards while gently lifting. You will likely find that by doing this you can safely remove the plate from the console and that the plate will have a way that it wants to come out. Mine came out from the front (I pulled back towards me and lifted slightly).
At this point you have a shifter that looks like it is pulling its skirt (boot) up. Good. Now its time for the elbow grease. The shifter and boot
rides on top of a solid peice of metal, about 3/4 inch by 1/4 inch. There are no clips. Simply pull the shifter straight up in the air, it will
come off. You might try to use one hand to "hold" the metal bar--I'd be gentle if possible, you don't want to put tons of pressure on that (correct me if I'm wrong guys). It takes a lot of effort and don't be surprised if it takes two hands.
Once you've got the shifter off (trying to keep the shifter and boot all in one peice seated on the boot plate), its time to cut. But first, prep
the interior. I anticipated a lot of crap and dust. I was right. I took the sheet and laid it across the front of the interior. I cut a hole and
put the shifter through it so that the only thing in the front of the car that I saw was the shifter. I then used masking tape to tape the sheet to the interior of the windows so that my dash and wheel were completely protected, I also draped it over the seats.
I used a Dremel rotary tool, its just easy and fast. Purchasing a Dremel at the local hardware store (much less than $100 for deluxe kit) is a good investment. You could use a small hacksaw.
Now its time to cut. Remember, you can always cut more!! To be safe, I started with 3/4 of an inch, and ultimately ground down to about 1 inch.
Take the ruler, mark the shifter, and start cutting. Using the dremel and the cutting wheels, it took me 3 wheels to get through it. I even got
some sparks! Fun! Be careful, it will get hot! If you are like me, you needed to approach the cutting from several angles at a very high dremel
speed to get the cut all the way around before you snapped the cutting wheel. This will lead to a slightly rough cut. The Dremel tool has a
sanding/grinding wheel, use this to get a "smooth to the touch" finish, or purchase a metal file and sandpaper at the hardware store. You need not
shape the top of the shifter to the "omega" shape it originally had. I noticed absolutely no difference in how secure the shifter is and several others have concurred. You will agree when you see how much force it takes to pull it off the shaft.
Now its time to put the shifter back on. Not sure you have cut enough? Use a bit of lubricant on the shifter before you put it back on so it will
be easier to remove for more cutting, you can then wipe off the excess after you remove it.
Optional: I removed the black rubber boot that was underneath the boot plate. This covers the little cavity in which the "linkage" between the
shifter and the transmission lie. This rubber boot was quite dirty and I figured, hey I'm in there. I cleaned and used a rubber conditioner on it, and also used some automotive grease on the linkage (which has made it slightly nicer). Keep an eye on the placement here of this rubber boot.
The part number is always on the side closer to you and fits quite snugly on the raised metal edges from which it came.
If you are happy with the amount of material you removed, all you need to do now is gently press the tabs of the boot plate back into place. Again,
go slowly and gently and be patient. It will go back. If you break it, no sweat, you can buy a new one from the big 3 for less than $20.
If your shifter/boot is ugly/worn or you just want a new one, now is a great time to upgrade. You can contact AGLA (Alan Gunn Leather Accessories) directly or try the big 3, they can get you what you need.
Feel free to email with questions. I'm also available to do the project with anyone in the Bay Area who would like a hand.
Seth
<img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />
Shortening the 5spd. Shifter
What you will need:
Dremel cutter and grinder wheel OR hacksaw and metal file
Ruler/tape measure
Lithium grease (optional)
Elbow Grease
Bedsheet or old blanket willing to be sacrificed
Masking Tape
Time: 1 hour
What to do:
First, you need to remove the shifter from the shifter handle. This is a two step process. Step one is to remove the shift boot plate from its
clipped in position in the center console. The boot plate is the rectangular base plate that the leather of the boot sits on/in. There are clips on all four sides. They are plastic though, and can break. Try gently easing the plate forward or backwards while gently lifting. You will likely find that by doing this you can safely remove the plate from the console and that the plate will have a way that it wants to come out. Mine came out from the front (I pulled back towards me and lifted slightly).
At this point you have a shifter that looks like it is pulling its skirt (boot) up. Good. Now its time for the elbow grease. The shifter and boot
rides on top of a solid peice of metal, about 3/4 inch by 1/4 inch. There are no clips. Simply pull the shifter straight up in the air, it will
come off. You might try to use one hand to "hold" the metal bar--I'd be gentle if possible, you don't want to put tons of pressure on that (correct me if I'm wrong guys). It takes a lot of effort and don't be surprised if it takes two hands.
Once you've got the shifter off (trying to keep the shifter and boot all in one peice seated on the boot plate), its time to cut. But first, prep
the interior. I anticipated a lot of crap and dust. I was right. I took the sheet and laid it across the front of the interior. I cut a hole and
put the shifter through it so that the only thing in the front of the car that I saw was the shifter. I then used masking tape to tape the sheet to the interior of the windows so that my dash and wheel were completely protected, I also draped it over the seats.
I used a Dremel rotary tool, its just easy and fast. Purchasing a Dremel at the local hardware store (much less than $100 for deluxe kit) is a good investment. You could use a small hacksaw.
Now its time to cut. Remember, you can always cut more!! To be safe, I started with 3/4 of an inch, and ultimately ground down to about 1 inch.
Take the ruler, mark the shifter, and start cutting. Using the dremel and the cutting wheels, it took me 3 wheels to get through it. I even got
some sparks! Fun! Be careful, it will get hot! If you are like me, you needed to approach the cutting from several angles at a very high dremel
speed to get the cut all the way around before you snapped the cutting wheel. This will lead to a slightly rough cut. The Dremel tool has a
sanding/grinding wheel, use this to get a "smooth to the touch" finish, or purchase a metal file and sandpaper at the hardware store. You need not
shape the top of the shifter to the "omega" shape it originally had. I noticed absolutely no difference in how secure the shifter is and several others have concurred. You will agree when you see how much force it takes to pull it off the shaft.
Now its time to put the shifter back on. Not sure you have cut enough? Use a bit of lubricant on the shifter before you put it back on so it will
be easier to remove for more cutting, you can then wipe off the excess after you remove it.
Optional: I removed the black rubber boot that was underneath the boot plate. This covers the little cavity in which the "linkage" between the
shifter and the transmission lie. This rubber boot was quite dirty and I figured, hey I'm in there. I cleaned and used a rubber conditioner on it, and also used some automotive grease on the linkage (which has made it slightly nicer). Keep an eye on the placement here of this rubber boot.
The part number is always on the side closer to you and fits quite snugly on the raised metal edges from which it came.
If you are happy with the amount of material you removed, all you need to do now is gently press the tabs of the boot plate back into place. Again,
go slowly and gently and be patient. It will go back. If you break it, no sweat, you can buy a new one from the big 3 for less than $20.
If your shifter/boot is ugly/worn or you just want a new one, now is a great time to upgrade. You can contact AGLA (Alan Gunn Leather Accessories) directly or try the big 3, they can get you what you need.
Feel free to email with questions. I'm also available to do the project with anyone in the Bay Area who would like a hand.
Seth
<img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />
04-24-2002, 02:30 PM
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pacifica, CA--Land of Fog
Posts: 628
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep. Sorry for lack of clarity. The "Shifter" is variously referred to as the rubber piece, housed inside a leather covering (the "Boot") which inserts onto the metal shift connection by sliding down and then the Shifter is then mounted to a plastic base plate which snaps into the center console. HTH
04-24-2002, 06:05 PM
#4
Racer
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Salida, California
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I take it that removing the shifter completely to do a clean job is not easy?
I had also heard the GTS shifters are shorter, I wonder if these are compatable with early trans cars?
Finally, how does it shift now?
I had also heard the GTS shifters are shorter, I wonder if these are compatable with early trans cars?
Finally, how does it shift now?
04-25-2002, 12:55 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 842
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" /> Great write up, nice detail. I've been contemplating shortening my shifter too. So how does it feel? How does it shift? I drive most of the time with my hand on the shifter and my elbow on the cassette holder/ arm rest pad, but I've noticed that the shifter actually feels a little tall for me.
<img src="graemlins/r.gif" border="0" alt="[king]" />
<img src="graemlins/r.gif" border="0" alt="[king]" />
04-25-2002, 08:00 AM
#6
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Nice write up Seth,
To respond to others questions...
If you shorten the shift lever you will like the result.
Three items to be aware of:
First, if you shorten the lever enough, you might have to remove some material from the bottom of the rubber shift **** as well. Otherwise, the shift **** will not be able to seat on the handle.
Second, be very careful not to exert excess pressure downward when reinstalling the shift ****. You do not, repeat NOT want to dislodge the linkage from the ball cup underneath. Whatever you do, do not pound downward on the shift ****.
Third, always handle the shift **** itself carefully. It is made from rubber and if you crack it, it will not stay on properly. That nice tight fit will be gone and it will continue to pull up off of your newly shortened shift lever with every gear change. If this happens to you, you will try all manner of hose clamps around the bottom of the handle to get it to stay on. All to no avail. You will eventually come to the conclusion that you need a cool new Momo shift **** to finish the job. (don't ask me how I know this.)
<img src="graemlins/oops.gif" border="0" alt="[oops]" />
Best wishes, <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
Joe <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />
Card carryin' Rennlist member
928 Forum Subscriber
To respond to others questions...
If you shorten the shift lever you will like the result.
Three items to be aware of:
First, if you shorten the lever enough, you might have to remove some material from the bottom of the rubber shift **** as well. Otherwise, the shift **** will not be able to seat on the handle.
Second, be very careful not to exert excess pressure downward when reinstalling the shift ****. You do not, repeat NOT want to dislodge the linkage from the ball cup underneath. Whatever you do, do not pound downward on the shift ****.
Third, always handle the shift **** itself carefully. It is made from rubber and if you crack it, it will not stay on properly. That nice tight fit will be gone and it will continue to pull up off of your newly shortened shift lever with every gear change. If this happens to you, you will try all manner of hose clamps around the bottom of the handle to get it to stay on. All to no avail. You will eventually come to the conclusion that you need a cool new Momo shift **** to finish the job. (don't ask me how I know this.)
<img src="graemlins/oops.gif" border="0" alt="[oops]" /> Best wishes, <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
Joe <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />
Card carryin' Rennlist member
928 Forum Subscriber
04-25-2002, 09:38 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
Removing the shifter is MUCH more trouble than it is worth. If you do, you can tie the short, stiff springs closed with fine copper wire, which you cut after installation.
You can use a medium-sized cardboard box as a shield for cutting with a Dremel. Make a small slit in the bottom, and slip it over the shifter.
DON'T use excessive force in removing or re-installing the shifter ****!!
There is a rubber-mounted plastic-ring bearing just forward of the base of the shift lever (youcan just see it if you push the foam rubber aside at the front). If you damage this, the torque tube has to be removed to replace it.
If you push down too hard on the shifter, you can pop the cup off of the front ball on the torque tube. A hassle to get back on.
The GT lever is basically the same as the shortened lever - costs less than $50, will fit all 5-speeds. No functional difference.
Shortening the lever works well. Shifting force is a bit higher, but since the shift is ponderous anyway, a little more dooesn't matter much.
You can use a medium-sized cardboard box as a shield for cutting with a Dremel. Make a small slit in the bottom, and slip it over the shifter.
DON'T use excessive force in removing or re-installing the shifter ****!!
There is a rubber-mounted plastic-ring bearing just forward of the base of the shift lever (youcan just see it if you push the foam rubber aside at the front). If you damage this, the torque tube has to be removed to replace it.
If you push down too hard on the shifter, you can pop the cup off of the front ball on the torque tube. A hassle to get back on.
The GT lever is basically the same as the shortened lever - costs less than $50, will fit all 5-speeds. No functional difference.
Shortening the lever works well. Shifting force is a bit higher, but since the shift is ponderous anyway, a little more dooesn't matter much.
Trending Topics
04-26-2002, 08:25 PM
#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pacifica, CA--Land of Fog
Posts: 628
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think it actually shifts about the same in force--it was hard to move it before (compared to "today's" cars)--and its still a very firm shift. The good thing though, is that the "throw" is shorter and it actually seems to allow me to shift just a tad bit faster. I also think lubricating the thing while in there was the right way to go as well. The height is just right for me now and the shifter falls right to my hand. I am very glad I did it. Looks SOOO much better.
As mentioned above, I did shorten the rubber in the boot slightly (perhaps 1/2 inch) but its not critical as the rubber boot below the shifter boot has tons of room on top of the shifter linkage.
I've ordered an ALGA 928gts shifter in burgundy to replace my very worn shifter/boot assembly. I"ll let you all know how it fits <img src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" border="0" alt="[blabla]" />
As mentioned above, I did shorten the rubber in the boot slightly (perhaps 1/2 inch) but its not critical as the rubber boot below the shifter boot has tons of room on top of the shifter linkage.
I've ordered an ALGA 928gts shifter in burgundy to replace my very worn shifter/boot assembly. I"ll let you all know how it fits <img src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" border="0" alt="[blabla]" />
04-26-2002, 10:08 PM
#9
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Endwell, New York
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't want to rain on this parade but there is a potential downside to shortening the shifter. Quicker shifts mean that the synchros have less time to do their job. You may start hearing some crunching (especially the older transmissions with the Porsche designed synchros) if you are shifting too quickly. I've already taken 1/2" off my shifter and I'm contemplating removing another 1/2" since it still feels (and looks) like a yard stick. I'll just make sure not to shift too quickly.
04-26-2002, 10:54 PM
#10
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ft. Lauderdale FLORIDA
Posts: 5,248
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
3 Posts
WELL...I shortened my shifter tonight!
[I'm not going to say a word......]
Anyway, I did the knife in the sheet thing and dragged out the Dremel tool. One word of advice: my eyesight is my livelihood as an airline pilot, so I wore safety glasses. Dremel tools turn at approximately 30,000 rpm, so if that thin little wheel shatters [I went through about 10 of them...2 at a time!], it goes flying. Be carefull!
The nice thing about the shortened shifter is the fact that now I don't bang into my passenger's knee when I shift to 4th or 5th. As to speed- well it looks kewl, but I doubt it is much faster.
Anyway, have fun and be safe!
N O R M Y !
'85 S1
[I'm not going to say a word......]
Anyway, I did the knife in the sheet thing and dragged out the Dremel tool. One word of advice: my eyesight is my livelihood as an airline pilot, so I wore safety glasses. Dremel tools turn at approximately 30,000 rpm, so if that thin little wheel shatters [I went through about 10 of them...2 at a time!], it goes flying. Be carefull!
The nice thing about the shortened shifter is the fact that now I don't bang into my passenger's knee when I shift to 4th or 5th. As to speed- well it looks kewl, but I doubt it is much faster.
Anyway, have fun and be safe!
N O R M Y !
'85 S1
08-10-2002, 03:24 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 842
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks to Marc White's suggestion at SITO, I finally shortened my shifter using 1 dremel cutting wheel and a box surround as mentioned in Wally's post above. Even with using a box you will get very fine dust everywhere...easy clean up though.. a good incentive to make you detail the dash and seats. I took off 1 1/4 inches. It not only looks proportionally perfect, it feels perfect too. It feels more responsive and therefore more sporty. The shifter **** came off without a great amount of pull and went back on just as easy. This is an excellent little "tweek".
<img src="graemlins/r.gif" border="0" alt="[king]" />
<img src="graemlins/r.gif" border="0" alt="[king]" />
