Hatch motor, electrical help needed
#16
Three Wheelin'
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Dozman, you guys have been right on the nose with this stuff!
Man, I think I've learned more this week than all of last month combined!
OK, so far I have been able to verify that the Resistor and Diode are both well with in their operating range. I was also able to verified their identity and cross references for both.
Neils suggesting running down to Radio Shack was right on, I stumbled on to a nice little $8.00 tester, the Radio Shack 22-330 that tests Transistors, Fets, Diodes, SCRs, Triacs, LEDs and continuity.
Now for some good/bad news. Good new is the tester confirms it's either a SCR or Triac and the one I have is bad (the 8.00 test can't see the difference between a SCR and Triac, but the 85.00 one made in the UK does)!
Now the bad news, I still can not cross reference this SCR/Triac without a part number.
All, Anyone, Everyone! We need this number! If you have a broken or spare hatch motor, open it up and look for the following number (s).
Here you can see it as mounted.
Here you can see the controller assembly out of the gear case.
Here is where I need to get a few people to look!
![](http://members.rennlist.com/t_max/Transistor.jpg)
P.S. If any one can suggest some SCR/Triac that are maybe close in value, that too would help. I have a bread board to test the circuit outside of the motor if need be.
Man, I think I've learned more this week than all of last month combined!
OK, so far I have been able to verify that the Resistor and Diode are both well with in their operating range. I was also able to verified their identity and cross references for both.
Neils suggesting running down to Radio Shack was right on, I stumbled on to a nice little $8.00 tester, the Radio Shack 22-330 that tests Transistors, Fets, Diodes, SCRs, Triacs, LEDs and continuity.
Now for some good/bad news. Good new is the tester confirms it's either a SCR or Triac and the one I have is bad (the 8.00 test can't see the difference between a SCR and Triac, but the 85.00 one made in the UK does)!
Now the bad news, I still can not cross reference this SCR/Triac without a part number.
All, Anyone, Everyone! We need this number! If you have a broken or spare hatch motor, open it up and look for the following number (s).
Here you can see it as mounted.
![](http://members.rennlist.com/t_max/HM006.jpg)
Here you can see the controller assembly out of the gear case.
![](http://members.rennlist.com/t_max/HM008.jpg)
Here is where I need to get a few people to look!
![](http://members.rennlist.com/t_max/Transistor.jpg)
P.S. If any one can suggest some SCR/Triac that are maybe close in value, that too would help. I have a bread board to test the circuit outside of the motor if need be.
Last edited by T_MaX; 07-19-2003 at 03:39 PM.
#17
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Sorry John.... A thyristor is a device used to convert AC to DC. A triac is essentially a pair of back to back thyristors used as an AC switch.
A FET or BJT is what you are thinking about. They conduct DC.
Don't know where this is going, but I'd guess the transistor, BJT or FET, is a likely culprit.
Scott
A FET or BJT is what you are thinking about. They conduct DC.
Don't know where this is going, but I'd guess the transistor, BJT or FET, is a likely culprit.
Scott
#18
Three Wheelin'
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Great news!
Well those numbers have been found! This one is getting closer to completion, just a few more steps
Hatch Motor
Well those numbers have been found! This one is getting closer to completion, just a few more steps
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Hatch Motor
#20
Three Wheelin'
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I forgot to mention the fact that we now know it's name and what it does!
NPN Epitaxial Silicon Transistor
Switching and Amplifier Applications
• Suitable for AF-Driver stages and low power output stages
• Complement to BC327/BC328
Randy I'm thinking I may install the PSB out of the good one I recieved from DEVEK and install it in my old motor and give it a try tonight. That would cut down on the time you would have to wait
NPN Epitaxial Silicon Transistor
Switching and Amplifier Applications
• Suitable for AF-Driver stages and low power output stages
• Complement to BC327/BC328
Randy I'm thinking I may install the PSB out of the good one I recieved from DEVEK and install it in my old motor and give it a try tonight. That would cut down on the time you would have to wait
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#21
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Hello Max...My cross reference manual says your 2c-337 or 2sc337 is a NPN transistor. The phillips ECG cross is ECG-123A but I would use a 123AP plastic case. Looking at the transistor bottom(where the legs come out) and the flat side facing up it is configured Emitter on left/ Base middle/ collector right. You might be able to test it in circuit with your tester. If not lift one leg of transistor. Reading your thread I noticed you were trying to Identify the component with the colour coding. One must be careful here because not only resistors use the colour code but capacitors and inductors use that as well. The safest way to test is to remove or lift one end and measure with an ohm meter. Using the colour code as a resistor it would read 110 ohms and you meter should be something close to that at RX1 scale...If an inductor it will read very low ohms almost a short... If it is a capacitor it will read as an open and would be .001 uf by the colour code. Your BC327/BC328 cross to a ECG-159 PNP...I hope some of this helps. I will continue to follow your repair as I like Randy am quite curious as to how you make out...Good-luck
Bill
Bill
#22
Three Wheelin'
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More great news! I remover the printed circuit board (PCB) from the good used motor from DEVEK, and installed it in my old motor, case and gears.
It works like a charm!
Bill, thanks for the reply. I pulled the Resistor and it is a 110 ohm Resistor (I was going to test it with my 8.00 RS componet tester if it was'nt.
I am willing to give the "123AP plastic case" a go, or for that matter if anyone else has an idea we can try that also. It only takes a few minites to R&R or I could build the curcuit on the bread board outside the motor case and just run two wires to the motor for testing.
BrianG, if yours is really cycling more than once, you maybe experiancing the early signs of failure. When you mention it, I seemed to remember mine only going around once when I was adjusting the lock last year. My reman. unit goes around only one time.
BrianG, Eric G, Niels Jørgensen, WallyP, Dozman, Scott C, Bill 84 928s This one for you!
It works like a charm!
Bill, thanks for the reply. I pulled the Resistor and it is a 110 ohm Resistor (I was going to test it with my 8.00 RS componet tester if it was'nt.
I am willing to give the "123AP plastic case" a go, or for that matter if anyone else has an idea we can try that also. It only takes a few minites to R&R or I could build the curcuit on the bread board outside the motor case and just run two wires to the motor for testing.
BrianG, if yours is really cycling more than once, you maybe experiancing the early signs of failure. When you mention it, I seemed to remember mine only going around once when I was adjusting the lock last year. My reman. unit goes around only one time.
BrianG, Eric G, Niels Jørgensen, WallyP, Dozman, Scott C, Bill 84 928s This one for you!
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
#23
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I just happen to be locating some electronics parts when I read this thread, so I thought I would pass this along. The NTE part for this cross reference is NTE-123AP...details can be found at http://www.nteinc.com/specs/100to199/NTE123A.html
Fairchild Semiconductor have a cross reference of 2N4124BU (not sure if this is a plastic case of not) check out http://www.fairchildsemi.com/pf/2N/2N4124.html.
Both parts are available from a variety of parts suppliers online...try www.digi-key.com or www.rpelectronics.com. Parts are about $.33/each!
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
Fairchild Semiconductor have a cross reference of 2N4124BU (not sure if this is a plastic case of not) check out http://www.fairchildsemi.com/pf/2N/2N4124.html.
Both parts are available from a variety of parts suppliers online...try www.digi-key.com or www.rpelectronics.com. Parts are about $.33/each!
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's