cold_beer839

Putting on the timing belt and the driverside (right hand side facing engine) cam sprocket jumped.

How do I get it back in line with the 45 degree mark on the cam sprocket and the notch on the back plate?

I remove the ignition rotor, then turn cam sprocket clockwise or does it matter?

Also, what the hell will go wrong next? I have not been kicked in the ***** all day, is that coming too?

shaaark89

take the rotor off and use the bolt on the cam to turn it back carefully. happens all the time.

the flyin' scotsman

what position is the crank at?

if at 45 BTDC #1 cyl. then as Tom suggests.

UKKid35

Tony has links to the best two write-ups, it's worth reading both of them a couple of times as they cover off most of the issues you've raised.

http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/timing.htm

David L. Lutz

I know your fustration so I will remind you again.

Make sure your crank is at the 45 degree mark before turning your valve sprocket. Its times like these where we sometimes forget the small things or big ones!

Maybe its time to take a break. Fairly common with these cars... you will be fresh and recharged by tomorrow. Need to avoid that kick between the legs you are expecting to happen now any minute

the flyin' scotsman

True that David............in my case its a view of Rennlist and a glass of Glenfiddich.

There's always tomorrow.

PorKen

Don't use the cam bolt to turn CCW, it may loosen the bolt! If the crank is at 45°, then the cam can be rotated safely CW all the way around.

You could use the old timing belt on the gear to turn the cam CCW back to the mark.

If you had a 32V'r, it would tell you if you are on the right tooth, even if you didn't have a mark for 45°.

David L. Lutz

Yes, what ever you do make sure the crank bolt is tight before running the car. Thats what happed to me. Crank bolt loose, and before I could say "oh ****" the crank timing gear, and belt were in the floor!

cold_beer839

I have been soundly beaten. I think the car even kicked me in the ribs after it knocked my mouth piece out in the 10th round. At one point I was on the ropes and even the Ref got a cheap shot in.

Anyway, tried putting some gear oil in the tensioner after getting the belt on. Pumped it in with the bleeder valve wide open. Never got much resistance, then the oil started to come out around the spring.

That was the kick in the ***** I was expecting.

I guess the tensioner is stopped up, never got a molecule of oil out of the bleeder valve.

I am inside now, and done for the night.........

David L. Lutz

What do you mean "around the spring"?

cold_beer839

Yes, the oil was coming out of the boot seal around the spring.

Tomorrow I will pull off the timing belt and tensioner, then take the tensioner apart and order all new parts for rebuilding it.

Evidently it is clogged up. The path of least resistance for the oil was not through the bleeder valve, but though the boot seal around the spring.

Anybody have a step by step procedure for bleeding the tensioner?

Step 1: open beer

Step 2: .......

shaaark89

open both bleeders.
squeeze oil into upper bleeder and wait until it comes out lower bleeder.
close both bleeders.
have 3 beers.

did you not rebuild the tensioner?
if not, likely the boot is cracked and letting the oil out. if you did then the seal is leaking.

the flyin' scotsman

Now your getting there.

Get yourself a small manual oil pump, attach hose, attach to open filler nipple, fully open the other nipple, pump 'til oil spurts from other nipple..........close nipples, done.

Baby concieved.................sorry wrong thread.

cold_beer839

"open both bleeders.
squeeze oil into upper bleeder and wait until it comes out lower bleeder.
close both bleeders."


That's what I did, but I got no oil out of bottom valve, instead I got oil out of boot seal around spring.

The tensioner was rebuilt, but I guess it has a clog in it somewhere near the bleeder valve.

Par for course with my cars....

I will take it off tomorrow and start back at square 1.

cold_beer839

Well, I took off the tensioner and took it apart.

The boot had 2 pin holes in it, must been defective as they could not be seen until you pumped oil pressure into the tensioner, then they would start seeping oil.

Totally cleaned tensioner in hot soapy water and blew it out with compressed air. Then reassembled it.

Hopefully all is good now.