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HVAC Vacuum Testing

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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 06:14 PM
  #16  
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Thanks Thom;
I THOUGHT that the orange one was to the center vent comb unit, but wanted to confirm before I ordered parts, OR tore any more interior up... :-(

I WILL fix the center unit, but the floor unit I can live without.... I REALLY don't like to remove more from cars than I have to.
I'll presume that since the floor unit will still be a vacuum leak, since it doesn't work anyway, I should probably cap off the leak on the yellow tube.
Thanks again.
Barry
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 06:24 PM
  #17  
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Hi Barry,

Glad to be able to help. Having a bad footwell flap, and feeble heater flow there was really uncomfortable in the winter. Ask my cold natured girlfriend how she liked having to turn the heater on and off to moderate heat. You may not have to pull both console and pod. Dave can help address that issue in about 2 minutes. He will be glad to help when you buy parts from him. Capping it off would allow the A/C to work though.

Good Luck,
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 06:26 PM
  #18  
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Yellow - Footwell Flap
Green - Defrost Flap
Orange - Center Outlet Comb Flap
White - Heater (hot water) Valve
Blue - Fresh Air/Recirculate /Flap
Black - Source

As suggested in the original post, you might want to just plug the yellow and blue lines that are leaking until you replace the actuators. This will probably greatly improve your A/C performance.

The center comb flap actuator is a pain to replace, requiring that you pull the center console back, the glovebox out, etc.

If you look up and back from where you were testing the vacuum lines, you can see the footwell flap actuator.
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 06:51 PM
  #19  
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Okay, you both talked me in to it. I'll order and replace them both.
And yes, I WOULD miss warm feet in winter......
It's just that winter only lasts about 2 weeks in Houston, TX.... :-)
If you have A/C issues, on the other hand.....
Now THAT is serious business!!! :-)
Thanks!!!
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 07:35 PM
  #20  
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Go for it Barry,

If you look up 928 Expert in the dictionary, you will see Wally Plumley. Thanks Wally for filling in the holes in my memory. I think Wally is saying that the footwell actuator can be reached easily. As Wally said the center console can be moved back, not totally removed, to get to the center comb, I think... I would do that one first, and see if the console relaxed position helps to get to the footwell actuator. Think about that defroster actuator while you are in there.
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 09:55 PM
  #21  
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Barry,

I'm currently in the middle of the center comb flap actuator replacement and am awaiting the new part from 928 Spec.

As Wally says, it's a pain to get to, but I had no trouble getting the center console out. It certainly makes access a lot easier. As detailed in one of the tips on Greg Nichols' excellent site and V1UHOH , I'm planning to replace only the torn diaphragm and connecting rod. I think that connecting the new link may the most difficult part of the job.

I did find the foam seal between the console vent and heater box in bad condition. I've used a length of 3/8"x1/4" soft weatherstrip foam that I got from my local builder's supply and it fits nicely. I would have tried to get this from 928 Spec but I found out about it too late.

Unfortunately, other than the removal of the glove box, I don't think this procedure will help with the footwell flap repair, although I can't be sure. Luckily mine is in good shape and have not had to replace it.

A lot of people would gripe about such repairs, but I must admit, I've enjoyed learning what's under the skin of my recently acquired 928.

Last edited by Scott G; Sep 28, 2004 at 09:06 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 11:50 PM
  #22  
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Thanks for the "heads-up".
I'll wait to get the part before I decide to "part-out" a perfectly good new actuator JUST to get a good diaphragm from it... :-)
But if it works, and it's easier......
Anyway, at the moment, my defroster acuator works perfectly, and everything else blows strong, so these should be the only two things I need to replace..... :-)
And in capping off the two leaky lines just now, while I wait on the parts, my A/C system has never worked better... so I KNOW I'm on the right track!!
Thanks!!!
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Old Jun 23, 2004 | 03:52 AM
  #23  
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http://www.griffiths.com/achelp/achelp3.htm

Check out bottom of page
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Old Jun 23, 2004 | 04:29 AM
  #24  
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Thanks for digging this out, it answers a question I posted a while ago about what readings should be for the internal/external temp sensors, as well as where to locate those pins inside the car!!

Serendipity, baby!!
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Old Jun 23, 2004 | 03:47 PM
  #25  
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Are the plugs that lead to the mixing motor only accessable with the console out? I had the side panels out on the right side yestderday, and couldn't see 'em. The photo of the mixing motor in the WSM is not very clear
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Old Jun 23, 2004 | 04:02 PM
  #26  
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should be able to get to them without removing anything.
just look up under the right side of the drivers section of the dash.
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 05:38 PM
  #27  
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Scratching my head on this one... just got done going through the HVAC vacuum hoses on my '78 euro and found 7 different lines:

Blue - very top left
Red - very top right
White(split into 2) - It holds NO vacuum and I think this may be a source of trouble
Green - defroster
Yellow - footwell
Black(split into 2) - source, i'm assuming.... yet to test
Brown(split into 2) - center vent (could hear action going on behind center vent)

In addition, one of the ports was plugged.

I'm trying to figure out where they all go exactly... I have a good idea for most of them, but a few of them had fallen out. Anyone have a good diagram for the early cars? I have seen a couple photos but it's difficult to see all the lines. Even a photo from the 'other' side would be helpful.
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 05:52 PM
  #28  
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The way I found it:

BLUE RED
JumpA JumpB WHITE1

YELLOW (plug)
BLACK1 BROWN1 GREEN

JumpA WHITE2
BLACK2 JumpB BROWN2
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