upper/lower ball joint boots- how to?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,023
Likes: 72
From: Southern Utah
upper/lower ball joint boots- how to?
When I did my rack boots the other night a saw my upper ball joint boots are also bad. I assume the lowers are not far behind.
Can I replace just the rubber boots?
Do I need any special tools?
What are all the parts needed? I see the boots and some clips? How many clips and is that all I need?
Thanks!
Kyle
Can I replace just the rubber boots?
Do I need any special tools?
What are all the parts needed? I see the boots and some clips? How many clips and is that all I need?
Thanks!
Kyle
Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 701
Likes: 1
From: North Wales PA
yes you can replace just the boots. i believe if you do a search there is an audi part number that is the same part. They are a few dollars a piece. The can be a little tricky having to deal with the spring pressure of the shock.
I dont have the WSM in front of me i just replaced the uppers and lowers on my rebuild project.
I would do them one at a time. remove the wheel and support the lower ball joint on a jack. Remove the nut at the balljoint taper. Use a fork to separate joint or give a quick blow to the eyelet for the taper mount to pop the joint loose. Lower the jack to expand the joint, r/r the old with the new boot. There is a flat metal clip that holds the larger opening of the boot. reinstall over new boot. Jack suspention to compress the joint and reinstall nut and torque. should only have to jack up the lower ball joints, the uppers should pop up and reinstall just by forcing down the "a" arm.
I dont have the WSM in front of me i just replaced the uppers and lowers on my rebuild project.
I would do them one at a time. remove the wheel and support the lower ball joint on a jack. Remove the nut at the balljoint taper. Use a fork to separate joint or give a quick blow to the eyelet for the taper mount to pop the joint loose. Lower the jack to expand the joint, r/r the old with the new boot. There is a flat metal clip that holds the larger opening of the boot. reinstall over new boot. Jack suspention to compress the joint and reinstall nut and torque. should only have to jack up the lower ball joints, the uppers should pop up and reinstall just by forcing down the "a" arm.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,725
Likes: 5
From: Davidsonville, MD
This will be debated heavily I'm sure. In all likelihood if the boots are bad, they've probably been bad for a while. Also remember that even Porsche engaged in planned obsolescence when they engineered these cars and in this case they used a plastic cup inside the upper ball joint. When the boot fails it allows dirt and moisture to get inside which breaks down the plastic cup. It's not really possible to grease the ball joint with the boot removed unless the plastic cup is broken (and it usually is) because there simply isn't sufficient clearance. Fortunately, Carl sells an upper ball joint rebuild kit. The kit contains a new cup made of bronze and a new cap with a grease fitting so it they can be greased regularly. I installed a set on my '85 and it did make a big difference. I also did a write up on it. My only complaint is that the polyurethane boots that come with it don't seem to fit as well as the stock boots.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,249
Likes: 1,059
From: DFW Texas
It can be done and is not technically difficult but still a real pain in the *** job. Get the boots from your favorite vendor or an Audi dealership (P/N 431.407.377A). The boot is held on with two spring loops. The small end is a single loop round wire and is relatively easy. the big end is a flat wire spring much like a key ring and is the pain in the *** part. What makes it difficult is you need to replace the grease (90 wt.) and it's almost impossible to get the lower spring on without getting the grease on your hands and the outside of the boot, making everything slip out of your grasp. Use a cotter pin puller, or a hook scribe or a piece of wire to pull the lower spring around while keeping it in the groove of the new boot. It helps to have three hands or a helper if your if not so equipped with the third appendage. 
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 6
From: Not close enough to VIR.
The boot is held on with two spring loops. The small end is a single loop round wire and is relatively easy. the big end is a flat wire spring much like a key ring and is the pain in the *** part. What makes it difficult is you need to replace the grease (90 wt.) and it's almost impossible to get the lower spring on without getting the grease on your hands and the outside of the boot, making everything slip out of your grasp. Use a cotter pin puller, or a hook scribe or a piece of wire to pull the lower spring around while keeping it in the groove of the new boot. It helps to have three hands or a helper if your if not so equipped with the third appendage.
