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Coolant sytem routing

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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 06:18 PM
  #1  
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Mike Simard
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Default Coolant sytem routing

Could someone please help me figure out what to do with the cornucopia of cooling system nubs and hoses?
The car is a 79 that has the minumum amount of stuff, no heater etc, only what's absolutley needed. I'm trying to put it back together in a hurry for a test day next week. The radiator hoses including the bleeder to the resevoir are obvious but I'm confused about how to handle the main resevoir plumbing.
There is a 1" or so hose nub on the t-stat housing, where should that go?
Why is there small hose nubs on the back of the t-stat housing and the rear of the heads? Why 2 small nubs on the resevoir?
Is there a coolant system diagram? The WSM isn't helpful.
thanks!
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 06:29 PM
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brutus
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The one inch hose went to the inner fender metal pipe that goes back then Y s under the reservor. Both nipples on the rear of the heads can be blocked off. The small nipple on the back side of the T stat housing goes to the top of the res as does the small hose from the top of the radiator both bleed air out of the system.
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 11:59 PM
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Mike Simard
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Thanks.
Well after weeks of work to get the car ready it now appears to have a leaking water pump. This sucks greatly, so much for making the track day next week.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 12:09 AM
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Mike--

Check your hoses where they connect, then look at the places where the hoses connect. When you are satisfied that the leak really is from the water pump, take another close look at the hoses and connections.

If you bought a pump from one of the Big N, you are in much better shape than those who were suckered on the cheap e-bay and internet-available Chinese knock-off of the 928 pump.

Oh, and look at the hoses and connections again...
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 12:25 AM
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Hi Bob.
It appears to be the pump shaft seal leaking, about a drop a second.
This car has sat for 8 years before I transformed it into a racer and stuck the original engine back in for temporary duty. I put on a new belt but didn't touch the pump because it wasn't leaking. I've run the engine for 10 seconds today. Maybe that was all it took, I wish there were some way of living with it until the 7.0 engine is ready. This engine only needed to run for several months. I'm disgusted and in no mood to take it apart and install a new pump. It's been a mad dash to get the car ready and I can't handle a setback like this right now.
That's too bad because I got suckered into one of the Ebay China pumps last year and can't bring myself to sell it to someone else so it's been sitting around here.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 03:14 AM
  #6  
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if you have a coffee table block you can use the Chinese WP on it.
Sorry to hear of the setbacks but a rebuilt pump might just fix your problem and it takes a few hours to install, since your handy with wrenches
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:43 AM
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Dennis Wilson
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Mike,

The seal in the water pump hardens with age (especially when sitting) so the act of tensioning the new belt cracks it. BTDT.

There is also a water line that runs inside the oil vapor hose between the oil filler and air filter housing. Don't forget to plug both the inlet and outlet.

Dennis
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 10:53 AM
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Giovanni
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Mike, are you absolutely sure it is the WP? On my ex '88 I had to tight the radiator hoses really tight or otherwise they would leak.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 04:31 PM
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Gio, you bet I looked at the stream coming out behind the WP pulley and tried desperatley to find a way for it to be a hose that just happened to wind up dripping there.

Well I just got back from driving the car. The noise and vibration were intense I have no body work or windshield, the racing tires were slinging gravel, my ears were ringing, the aluminum seat translated every decibal from the open headers below and I was expecting something to explode, it was awesome!
The WP still leaks though.
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