Problem with interior lights (dash illumination and dimming)
02-23-2008, 04:00 AM
#16
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Ok so here is the million dollar question
My circuit blows when i adjust the dimmer switch. So i pull the dimmer switch and replace the fuse. But now there are no lights on the center console (AC, clock) I assume that a missing dimmer switch will not complete the circuit so i should have no lights. Thats safe to assume right?
I wont know for sure until i get the new switch but at $36 its a no brainer really. And worse case scenario is i have no AC or clock illumination, i can live with that.......assuming the new switch gets everything back to normal.
My circuit blows when i adjust the dimmer switch. So i pull the dimmer switch and replace the fuse. But now there are no lights on the center console (AC, clock) I assume that a missing dimmer switch will not complete the circuit so i should have no lights. Thats safe to assume right?
I wont know for sure until i get the new switch but at $36 its a no brainer really. And worse case scenario is i have no AC or clock illumination, i can live with that.......assuming the new switch gets everything back to normal.
02-23-2008, 11:53 AM
#18
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Ryan,
Be careful installing a larger amperage fuse. The 928 wires are just big enough to handle the rated amperage. With a larger fuse, the wire burns up instead of the fuse blowing.
Be careful installing a larger amperage fuse. The 928 wires are just big enough to handle the rated amperage. With a larger fuse, the wire burns up instead of the fuse blowing.
02-23-2008, 12:25 PM
#19
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Thanks Earl,
I used the 7.5 only for a second then it blew. I bought more 5A fuses so everything there is good now.
The only place where i have a fuse higher then specified is in the #26 slot for the rear hatch release and I have a 3A fuse there instead of the 1A fuse because i cant find a 1A fuse anywhere locally. I will be ordering a couple with my next purchase order though.
I used the 7.5 only for a second then it blew. I bought more 5A fuses so everything there is good now.
The only place where i have a fuse higher then specified is in the #26 slot for the rear hatch release and I have a 3A fuse there instead of the 1A fuse because i cant find a 1A fuse anywhere locally. I will be ordering a couple with my next purchase order though.
02-23-2008, 01:57 PM
#20
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
This variable supply feeds all the variable illumination bulbs and therefor all will go out if you remove the rheostat without bypassing it with a jumper.
Guys - I know it sometimes seems something works in a particular way... that doesn't mean it really does. If you suppose something rather than know it for sure - please indicate its a guess/supposition.
In all likelihood one of the terminals shorted to grounded metal when the rheostat was loose.
Rheostats can go open circuit - however in this case no fuse will blow. If your fuse blows you either have too much load attached or maybe the wrong connections to the rheostat (order doesn't matter).
Alan
02-23-2008, 01:59 PM
#21
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Alan,
Do you have any ideas as to why the circuit blows a fuse when i mess with the now removed dimmer switch?
At $36 would you think buying a new dimmer switch is a good investment?
I trust your knowledge on electronics over anyone else i can think of. Thanks for commenting.
Do you have any ideas as to why the circuit blows a fuse when i mess with the now removed dimmer switch?
At $36 would you think buying a new dimmer switch is a good investment?
I trust your knowledge on electronics over anyone else i can think of. Thanks for commenting.
02-23-2008, 02:08 PM
#22
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Ryan, look to see if you can see anything aftermarket added to the interior light connections (either of the wires that connected to the rheostat). If you find any try to figure out what they are (or just remove).
For the reasons described before - I'd unplug the new head unit.
Jumper the 2 rheostat connections together. Replace the fuse and see it the lights work. If that works OK - put the rheostat back in - does it work now? Add back the head unit if the fuse blows your head unit connections are wrong.
Don't replace the Rhesostat unless you can prove is it the failure point.
Alan
For the reasons described before - I'd unplug the new head unit.
Jumper the 2 rheostat connections together. Replace the fuse and see it the lights work. If that works OK - put the rheostat back in - does it work now? Add back the head unit if the fuse blows your head unit connections are wrong.
Don't replace the Rhesostat unless you can prove is it the failure point.
Alan
02-23-2008, 02:57 PM
#23
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
the dash illumination was a problem that predates the new head unit.
I will tell you that there is a really ugly mass of wires right behind the HU and i cnat figure out what they go to. When i trace them all to their source and find they dont go to anything "porsche" then i will quickly cut them all out.
That will probably be another thread though. But i wanted to just point out that this problem started when i removed the pod itself and this is before adding the new HU.
I will tell you that there is a really ugly mass of wires right behind the HU and i cnat figure out what they go to. When i trace them all to their source and find they dont go to anything "porsche" then i will quickly cut them all out.
That will probably be another thread though. But i wanted to just point out that this problem started when i removed the pod itself and this is before adding the new HU.
02-23-2008, 03:15 PM
#24
Ryan,
Did you get your ground wire reattached correctly when you reinstalled the pod? A loose ground connection could heat up and affect the operations of your instruments and switches.
Dennis
Did you get your ground wire reattached correctly when you reinstalled the pod? A loose ground connection could heat up and affect the operations of your instruments and switches.
Dennis
02-24-2008, 08:24 PM
#25
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Dennis
I havent reinstalled the pod and cant recall any specific ground wire honestly. I am thinking that i should start trouble shooting this only after the pod is in as perhaps some part of the mounting or its absence is contributing to this.
Actually maybe i can send my dimmer to someone with a 90 plus car and they could tell me wether or not it blows their fuse?
I havent reinstalled the pod and cant recall any specific ground wire honestly. I am thinking that i should start trouble shooting this only after the pod is in as perhaps some part of the mounting or its absence is contributing to this.
Actually maybe i can send my dimmer to someone with a 90 plus car and they could tell me wether or not it blows their fuse?
02-24-2008, 11:05 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
You should be able to test the "Dimmer" with a volt meter and have someone here with a torn apart car do the same. The specs might even be in a manual somewhere. I have none of my documentation with me so I can't check.
03-13-2008, 04:10 AM
#27
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Ok i wanted to bump this as its becoming annoying not having dash lights now that i am actually putting miles on the car.
So what i found out today was this. In relation to the fuse that continues to blow, i replaced the fuse so the circuit has power but the dimmer is out. When i turn on the exterior lights the instrument cluster goes from the daytime mode to the not as bright evening mode. The other lights should come one, specifically the AC panel, the AC switch, the clock illumination and also i noticed that the 12V power outlet has NO power, AND the interior lamps on the doors, and hatch that you set to ON ALWAYS, ON when door is ajar, and OFF also only work when set to the ON ALWAYS position. The ajar switch doesn't illuminate the door or hatch ambient lights. I assume they are all related to the original issue.
What i did was jump the two wires that the dimmer would connect into and see if lights would come on in which i would think the dimmer was the problem. Well i jumped them with the exterior lights and immediately the cluster went from the evening mode back to daylight and i heard a pop, which i assume was the fuse. Now i switch the lights from on to off and the cluster dosent change brightness as it should when it knows its night time. So what i learned was that my dimmer switch in NOT the problem.....RIGHT?
i will replace the fuse which will get me back to square one with the dimmer not attached and no lights turning on in my center console. But the cluster changes brightness. Also i haven't checked but i am not sure if the switches on the sides of the pods are lighting up when i turn the lights on, i would assume not as they would all be related, or are they possibly on the same circuit that controls the clusters illumination which does work when the fuse isnt blown.
I would love some possible suggestions, what should i be looking for, a short or exposed wire someplace? Would a ground wire shorting cause this (NO, only a power wire touching a ground would cause this right?) Again i am electrically challenged. Worst case scenario I will ask around in Dallas on saturday and maybe someone there can help me figure out what the hell is causing these lighting problems.
So what i found out today was this. In relation to the fuse that continues to blow, i replaced the fuse so the circuit has power but the dimmer is out. When i turn on the exterior lights the instrument cluster goes from the daytime mode to the not as bright evening mode. The other lights should come one, specifically the AC panel, the AC switch, the clock illumination and also i noticed that the 12V power outlet has NO power, AND the interior lamps on the doors, and hatch that you set to ON ALWAYS, ON when door is ajar, and OFF also only work when set to the ON ALWAYS position. The ajar switch doesn't illuminate the door or hatch ambient lights. I assume they are all related to the original issue.
What i did was jump the two wires that the dimmer would connect into and see if lights would come on in which i would think the dimmer was the problem. Well i jumped them with the exterior lights and immediately the cluster went from the evening mode back to daylight and i heard a pop, which i assume was the fuse. Now i switch the lights from on to off and the cluster dosent change brightness as it should when it knows its night time. So what i learned was that my dimmer switch in NOT the problem.....RIGHT?
i will replace the fuse which will get me back to square one with the dimmer not attached and no lights turning on in my center console. But the cluster changes brightness. Also i haven't checked but i am not sure if the switches on the sides of the pods are lighting up when i turn the lights on, i would assume not as they would all be related, or are they possibly on the same circuit that controls the clusters illumination which does work when the fuse isnt blown.
I would love some possible suggestions, what should i be looking for, a short or exposed wire someplace? Would a ground wire shorting cause this (NO, only a power wire touching a ground would cause this right?) Again i am electrically challenged. Worst case scenario I will ask around in Dallas on saturday and maybe someone there can help me figure out what the hell is causing these lighting problems.
03-13-2008, 06:11 PM
#29
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Ryan - When you say "Well i jumped them with the exterior lights" what the heck do you mean...?
You were supposed to connect the 2 connectors that previously went to the Rheostat together - don't connect them to anytihing else... (??)
The power outlet is another fuse and unrelated (if wired normally)
The interior lights are quite unrelated to the exterior lights - seperate issue (if wired normally).
The pod switches vary in connection some are variable brightess and some not. The headlight switch should always be on with the ignition at a fixed level, the hazard; reset, fog and defogger should be variable with the lights on unless activated. These are based on the variable supply and will not work without the rheostat.
If individual switches don't illuminate - its most likely just the bulbs...
Just connect the rheostat wires together and see if you get illumination in the pod - if the fuse blows only when these are connected you need to follow the circuit to every place it goes - all the pod switches I mentioned and all the console locations... given the mess in the console I'd start there...
Alan
You were supposed to connect the 2 connectors that previously went to the Rheostat together - don't connect them to anytihing else... (??)
The power outlet is another fuse and unrelated (if wired normally)
The interior lights are quite unrelated to the exterior lights - seperate issue (if wired normally).
The pod switches vary in connection some are variable brightess and some not. The headlight switch should always be on with the ignition at a fixed level, the hazard; reset, fog and defogger should be variable with the lights on unless activated. These are based on the variable supply and will not work without the rheostat.
If individual switches don't illuminate - its most likely just the bulbs...
Just connect the rheostat wires together and see if you get illumination in the pod - if the fuse blows only when these are connected you need to follow the circuit to every place it goes - all the pod switches I mentioned and all the console locations... given the mess in the console I'd start there...
Alan
03-13-2008, 07:17 PM
#30
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
thanks Alan
When i said jumped them i meant i put a wire in each end of the dimmer connection to complete that circuit. Upon doing that the fuse blew.
I will check the fuses for door panel lights and 12 volt power source as well.
AC panel lighting, AC switch & lock button panel and the clock illumination as well as the ashtray illumination are the most obvious problems. I will try and fool around with the rest of the stuff, but again when i jumped the dimmer control wiring together the fuse blew immediately. I guess i was asking if that is indicative of a specific issue which jumps out at you but apparently its a wiring issue with everything and i just need to start looking for something.
Am i looking for exposed wires grounding to metal inside the console or loose connections or what should i be looking for, or do i need to go in and start wire testing every wire to solve this problem?
When i said jumped them i meant i put a wire in each end of the dimmer connection to complete that circuit. Upon doing that the fuse blew.
I will check the fuses for door panel lights and 12 volt power source as well.
AC panel lighting, AC switch & lock button panel and the clock illumination as well as the ashtray illumination are the most obvious problems. I will try and fool around with the rest of the stuff, but again when i jumped the dimmer control wiring together the fuse blew immediately. I guess i was asking if that is indicative of a specific issue which jumps out at you but apparently its a wiring issue with everything and i just need to start looking for something.
Am i looking for exposed wires grounding to metal inside the console or loose connections or what should i be looking for, or do i need to go in and start wire testing every wire to solve this problem?