Maybach_Man

Hi Guys

im doing a pretty substantial re build of my car and due to the fact that it is winter over here i am having trouble with the ally oxidising.. eg engine and gearbox etc..... so what do you use ( if you have the problem)


Geoff

928ntslow

Depends on what parts you are talking about. On aluminum wheels, I use a rub sealer. Engine parts...forget about it. So you may want to clarify what parts.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Aluminum is one metal which NEVER appears in nature it is ALWAYS combined with something else. Polish it nice and shiney and it immediatly starts looking for something to combine with. Porsche either anodized the wheels (the flat silver or platinum) or painted them. The undercarrage they oiled down with cosmoline to retard corrosion.

Maybach_Man

As i said in the first post the gearbox (casing), engine block, sump, gearbox crossmember, front wishbones etc........

Thanks

Geoff

Tails

Jim has given you the answer.

Try spraying them with high temperature clear coat.

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

JEC_31

Anodize or powdercoat.

Search Brendan C.'s thread for his pictures showing his nifty bright blue powerdcoated suspension pieces.

dr bob

For those parts, you might consider using one of the low-pH spray wheel cleaners on your target pieces. The acid will "brighten" the surface. You'll want to neutralize it after rinsing, then decide what you want to use to preserve it. For the anodized wheels, porsche recommended a thin coating of Vaseline, a petroluem jelly that's translucnet. It seals the surface to prevent oxides from forming too quickly. Diasadvantges are that it can be a little messy, and it washes off fairly easily. Then you go on to clear paint finishes, whick do the job OK for a while. Then the bright metal still starts to go to grey underneath, and you have to strip the paint off to restore the bright metal color again. If you are just concerned about protecting the parts while they are waiting for installation, the vaseline trick might not be bad. If you need a more durable protection for storage, follow the factory's lead and use a wax/parraffin/oil product like the original cosmoline. It's ugly but it works.

Unless you are entering shows with the car and need the bright original finish, aluminum self-protects itself over time. A layer of aluminum oxide will form on the surface. In the absence of other contaminants, the aluminum generally fades to a dull light grey color on its own.

Hope this helps!

toofast928

Polish to your liking, then seal with engine paint, clear coat.

leperboy

If you have everything apart, powdercoating would be your best choice. Second would be to clean them, prep them with POR-15 MetalPrep and then coat them with POR-15 Glisten PC. This is basically a clearcoat designed to work directly on bare metal. It is stronger and less likely to flake than a regular clearcoat paint.

Other manufacturers make similar clearcoats, like Eastwood Diamond Clear. The key is to prep the metal well beforehand.

Matt

Angel84-928

Alodine. Mil-C-5541 Class 1A

michaelathome

OK,

Here's a stupid question. We just emptied the valley during an intake refesh on my '88, sprayed a little brake cleaner in there and took off the gease/oil that was in there and the block shines like a mirror? Was the oil and grease sealing the aluminium from oxidizing? If that is the case I would say get a nice coat of oil over all of it with a towel or sponge and call it a day.

Michael

69gaugeman

bolt a couple of zinc pieces to the motor and tranny. electrolysis attacks the zinc first

Ian928

That will only work if you submerge the car in an electrolyte like water...

Sailmed

You mean I could have prepped the 86.5 before the 7' tide came over the island?

Fabio421

Wax works well on parts that don't get hot. I'm not sure how well it will work on an engine. Theres a product called Zoop that I've seen advertised lately. Maybe check and see if that is high temp.