Courtshark

Update: installed the new-to-me refurbished MAF over the weekend. Man, getting to that hoseclamp screw was a PITA! Anyway, got it off and did the swap. No huge noticeable difference in drivability. I did have one instance enetering the highway where the car seemed more lively than before, but it still wasn't an "oh my God this is so much better" type of change. Is there a simple way to bench test the old MAF other than swapping it on and off? On Saab 900 turbos you can check and adjust the resistance using the screw/potentiometer and clipping an ohm meter to the #3 & #6 pins.

Before and after the swap my idle was steady but low. I can't remember if I mentioned that before, but that car idles at about 400. It doesn't die or bog, and it never hunts (knock on wood). Should I try to manually raise the idle? I've also not investigated the flappy... possible source of woes here?

Lastly, it has a friggin' K&N filter. Me thinks I should get a normal paper filter. One step at a time...

DonT

Update -
I replaced my MAF with a NEW MAF from the spare parts room. The MAF was acquired several years ago
on an eBay special ($99 from Florida - does that bring back memories?).

Noticed 2 things -

A/F gauge is NO longer bouncing all over the place.

Took a friend on several "high speed demo runs", and the acceleration seemed (seat of pants meter)
MUCH stronger & smoother.

Might be time for another dyno run.