Tick tick tick...
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Tick tick tick...
Yesterday I started my car and heard a ticking sound that increased as i reved the motor. I have never heard it before and it did not happen this morning. Yesterday it got to about 113 degrees. Car was hot, but below the second line (A/C had been running). Anyone have any ideas?
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If the ticking eventually went away after startup, I would suggest a lifter is bleeding down. If you have one lifter that is bleeding down when depressed after you shut the engine down. It can bleed off all night, then you get the ticking the next day. You may not hear it for quite a while due to where the motor stops.
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Tom-
The lifter ticking, although not ideal shouldn't pose a problem for your car. Couple of ways to fix - could be the oil check valves (check out Tony's page for this), or replace the lifters. Lifters are $45 each (I think) and you have to pull the cams to replace them (PITA).
BTW - did you get the WOT switch issue resolved?
The lifter ticking, although not ideal shouldn't pose a problem for your car. Couple of ways to fix - could be the oil check valves (check out Tony's page for this), or replace the lifters. Lifters are $45 each (I think) and you have to pull the cams to replace them (PITA).
BTW - did you get the WOT switch issue resolved?
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The lifter bleed rate is relative to oil weight as well. If your propblem only happened when it is realy hot outside, and for a short time only, I wouldn't get excited about it yet. What oil are you using?
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jay,
haven't got the wot switch fixed yet. considering jumping the wires to see if it changes things, but my a/f still goes full rich when i jump on it, so i wonder whether it will make any noticable difference. i sure as heck am not going to pull the intake to find out (at least not right now).
tom
89 s4
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(different tom)
haven't got the wot switch fixed yet. considering jumping the wires to see if it changes things, but my a/f still goes full rich when i jump on it, so i wonder whether it will make any noticable difference. i sure as heck am not going to pull the intake to find out (at least not right now).
tom
89 s4
shaaark
(different tom)
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Garry,
I am running 20 W 50 hen the outside temp starts hitting 108+ daily. I will be changeing oil this week and running a lighter grade as monsoons have begun and temps swing by 10 - 30 degrees. I just noticed this in the last couple of days. I was under the hood today and it sounds like it may be comming from the lower passenger side in front of the motor. I stop hearing it as revs get up @ or above 2K.
Thanks for your help. I will keep you posted on what I find.
Tom
88 S4
I am running 20 W 50 hen the outside temp starts hitting 108+ daily. I will be changeing oil this week and running a lighter grade as monsoons have begun and temps swing by 10 - 30 degrees. I just noticed this in the last couple of days. I was under the hood today and it sounds like it may be comming from the lower passenger side in front of the motor. I stop hearing it as revs get up @ or above 2K.
Thanks for your help. I will keep you posted on what I find.
Tom
88 S4
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Tom-
I would think that you (and I) should expect to see the A/F indicate this way. Otherwise we'd never be able to continue to accelerate to a faster speed. As I understand it (based on the service manuals), when we depress the throttle, the idle switch cuts out, telling the brains to apply a different fuel/timing profile to permit increased engine speed/load. When we 'mash it', the WOT switch cuts into the circuit, providing a new set of fuel/timing programs to really hammer it. Apparently, there are at least 3 different fuel/timing curves (or profiles) stored in the brains. This also doesn't include the other inputs and their effect (like MAF sensor, O2 sensor, temperature II sensor, Hall sensor - just to name a few).
Let me know if you decide to run the parallel switch.
Jay
I would think that you (and I) should expect to see the A/F indicate this way. Otherwise we'd never be able to continue to accelerate to a faster speed. As I understand it (based on the service manuals), when we depress the throttle, the idle switch cuts out, telling the brains to apply a different fuel/timing profile to permit increased engine speed/load. When we 'mash it', the WOT switch cuts into the circuit, providing a new set of fuel/timing programs to really hammer it. Apparently, there are at least 3 different fuel/timing curves (or profiles) stored in the brains. This also doesn't include the other inputs and their effect (like MAF sensor, O2 sensor, temperature II sensor, Hall sensor - just to name a few).
Let me know if you decide to run the parallel switch.
Jay
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Now, there is a knock rather than a tick. I cannot pinpoint where is is coming from. I can only hear it with the windows open or outside the car. Any further insight?
Thanks,
Thanks,
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The tick tick tick that became a knock knock knock turned out to be a failing air pump. Very much a relief. Since the tech I took it to will need to order one, I had him cut the belt. Only possible proble is not passing emmissions (due this month )That son of a gun was noisey and really caused the car to run a little rough. Thanks to all who offered suggestions/help.
By the way, are there any posts that describe the replacement of an air pump?
Thanks again,
[ 07-06-2001: Message edited by: Tom 88 S4 ]
By the way, are there any posts that describe the replacement of an air pump?
Thanks again,
[ 07-06-2001: Message edited by: Tom 88 S4 ]
#11
Glad to hear that it was only your Air pump. Mine did the same thing but more of a grinding vibration noise. I just pulled the thing out and really don't intend on putting it back. Removal was pretty straight forward If yours is an S4 then you will not have to worry about the fan belt.