TIA to everyone with advice.

I recently acquired an 86.5 auto. The shark does cranks but does not start. What is the LOGICAL order to troubleshooting this problem.

The first 3 things I plan to do is:
1. Remove the old gas, and replace with new gas.
2. Check timing belt tension and belt itself.
3. Check valve timing.

If all the above checks out, how should I proceed?

 

Hey John,
I just had a no start problem and it seems to be the ECM. I guess that is always an option.
regards,
Sab.

 

John,
We need compression, fuel and spark to fire an engine, let’s assume we have good compression. Check for fuel, the easiest way just spray starting fluid into the intake if the engine attempts to fire we have no fuel. no fire check for spark the best and safes method is with a timing light, just connect it too any spark plug wire and crank the engine. If the light flickers we have spark. Lets use know.

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

 

John, First see where the problem lies. See if you have spark to the plugs by cranking the car and holding the plug boot near the plug. If you see a spark then you know it must be something else. Next check to see if you have fuel, listen for the pump to kick-on then see if you have the correct amount of fuel preasure. Sal

 

John, I went through this with my 82'. I used ether and was told NOT TO. The best suggestion was WD-40. Good luck.

 

I appreciate the response's so far. I will be working on the shark Tuesday after work. I will keep everyone posted on fuel, compression and spark. As it gets narrowed down I can get some more advice.

Gotta Love This site.

 

in case you have fuel, compression, and spark and still no start, make sure that little wire that attaches to the larger cable on the battery has a good connection.

 

Begin with the most common problem. Stand by the rear bumper and have someone operate the starter. Listen carefully for the buzz of the fuel pump as the starter operates. If there is no buzz, check fuse #42. If the fuse is good, swap Relay XX (the fuel pump relay) with Relay XII (the horn relay).

You have two virtually independent ignition systems - the most common single failure point is Relay XVI (ignition relay), which can also be swapped with Relay XII.

The aforementioned small wires at the battery positive terminal feed the ignition, injection, and fuel pump relays directly, and must be clean and tight.

 

Hi Gang,
Dozman is busy moving into his new house this weekend and doesn't have his internet connection set up yet, SO, he asked me to convey his thanks for all the tips and advice you all offered. He appreciates all your help greatly. Now, it seems that during Dozman's moving in, he looked at his 86.5 A/T in his new garage with a freshly charged battery and couldn't resist trying to start it. Gave it a squirt of WD-40, turned the key and BWAAAAA, it fired right up. However, he says that as long as he hold the cars RPM'S above 1K with the gas pedal the car will run with no apparent miss. If he lets off the throttle, the car dies. Anybody care to venture a guess as to what may be causing this? <img border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" title="" src="graemlins/drink.gif" />

 

does it smoke when its running? Also, the 86.5, does that have the LH? If so, that sounds like a dead one if it won't run below 1k.

 

Barry,
Just spoke to Dozman on the phone. He says, yes, it has some blue smoke while it's running. He has extra brains, and will swap them and see if that does it. He bought this car off e-bay for a ridiculously small price. PO said it would run but not well, and thought the T-belt was the problem. Obviously NOT. Don't know when the last time it ran was. Thanks for the info. Will let you know if brain is the problem. Dozman doesn't know if he will get to it tonight or not as he moving into his house shorthanded.

 

Sounds like the Idle Stabilizer to me, if frozen you will have no idle air bypassing the throttle body but it will run fine above idle. BTDT! I could hold the idle as low as 400rpm but as soon as I lifted my foot, goodbye! It may need a little kick just when it fires when starting also, just like a carb'd engine.

They can be replaced without removing the intake, but it hurts the body kneeling on the radiator support and lying on your chest on the intake with both arms behind and underneath the intake.

Dave

 

Thanks Ketchmi,
The idle stabiler was my first thought also, but I have a 16V with L-Jet, and am not familiar with the LH. Figured it was best to get the opinion of you guys that do have LH. Again, Dozman says "thank you all" and he will be back with us as soon as his internet connection is up and running. Until then it looks like I'm his designated secretary.

 

You have to prime the engine to start.

The LH side of the temp II sensor enriches the mixture on a cold engine, an open circuit inf.ohms reading = excessive rich mixture = hard starting and erratic idle. On a cold engine the reading is 4.4 to 6.8 K ohms.

The EZF side advances the ignition (cold) the reading the same as the LH
Check each pin to ground (not to each other)

Other possibilities are low system voltage should be 13.8v running, idle speed control hard to check, low fuel pressure need gauge to check, speed reference sensor going bad, you will need an oscilloscope and MAF

Good luck.

Hi Dave did you fine the leak on your trans.

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />

 

Thanks Steve,
Looks like we'll troubleshoot it tomorrow.Dozman's wiped out from moving and he's currently going beddy-bye.

Edited-Wait a minute. We have an update!If he holds the throttle above 1-K for a few minutes, and then slowly eases it down, the car will idle at approx. 400RPM although roughly. Things at the top of the list:
1.Spark plug condition
2. Correct firing order
3.Remove varnishy smelling fuel, purge fuel system and install fresh fuel
4. Check idle stabilizer
5. Check tempII sensor
6. Check ignition timing

Anything we might be forgeting?