Gonna need to get the whole car off the ground to pull the wheels and do an entire brake job, rotors and all.

I know how to get the back of the car up so that I can get stands/supports at the specified jacking points, but how do I do the front?


I want the car to sit on stands/supports at all 4 points.

Keith Widom
SOCAL 928

 

I just did my brakes, one wheel at a time. I am surprised how easy it is <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Let the experts tell you how to properly raise your car. I did this on my another car and the worst part was getting it down.

 

[quote]Originally posted by 928ntslow:
<strong>I want the car to sit on stands/supports at all 4 points.</strong><hr></blockquote>

There are a couple ways that different people do this. I usually lift the car at one of the rear jacking points until the front wheel on that same side of the car is also off the ground. Place a jackstand under the front jacking point that's now up in the air. Lower the jack and repeat this on the oposite side of the car. That will have the front of the car in the air, with a jackstand under each of the front jacking points. You can then lift the rear of the car with the jack under the center of the rear crossmember, and put a jackstand under each of the rear jacking points. This system works pretty quickly, and doesn't require any extra wood, jacks, or anything else.

 

another way that works (mines sitting like this as we speak) is to jack under both front jack points simultaneously (or sequentially if you're alone), then put jack stands under the lower control arm mounting bracket inboard of the shock assembly. line the jack stands up and then jack up the rear as mike said above and the car will tilt onto the front jack stands. or if oyu odon't have 3 jacks, just lower onto the jack stands and then jack up the rear. has worked very well for me whenever i need to get the whole car up in the air.

 

And here's the 'heretic' approach:

Using a short piece of 2x4 placed longitudinally along the square 'frame' member that runs lengthwise along both sides of the undercarriage (yes, it's not really a structural frame as is typical in other body types), just inboard of the hard point. I slowly jack just enough to clear the tire and get a jackstand under the front hard point. Repeat on the other side, then lift the rear from the center cross brace.

Works for me over the years without any deformation of the 'frame' member - but then again, my car's a couple hundred pounds lighter than yours. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

 

All very good ideas Gentleman!

I think I would prefer to set the car on all 4 known jack points.

I will try all the ones that applie and see which works best for me.

Thanks again,
Keith

 

Jack the car up on its jack points, then for the front place the stand under the front part of the frame rail. Make sure it is not under the flat part of the rail, but that it's under the part that has a seam. The alternative is to place the stand under the lower control arm rear bracket. I've done it both ways without any problems.

Caution: Avoid the frame rail that is flat. It is not structural, and will deform if too much force is exerted on it. <img src="graemlins/nono.gif" border="0" alt="[nono]" />

 

I think it is in general agreement that the rear can be lifted by the aluminum cross brace.
BUT, I sort of disagree with where some of you are lifting the front.
I use a floor jack with a piece of wood as a pad under the factory jack pad. and then place the jack stand under this spot. There is a cross piece that spans the car. It is attached with two substantial bolts. A jack stand sat under there for two years while my 78 was in storage.
Incidentally I do have a deformed piece on the drivers side front inbetween the jack pad and the sudo frame rail. where some P.O. put a jack!!!
I was just thinking that You S4 owners have all kinds of shields and stuff. HMMM

 

As to jacking on the rear crossmember goes, the factory manuals approve the practice, and I've never heard a (credible) instance of any wrong coming from it.

You can also jack on the front crossmember with a longish chunk of 2x4 to evenly distribute the force. This method is not factory sanctioned, but has also been done in the field for many years with no ill effects that I have ever heard. Nor damage that I have ever seen.

As always, jack slowly and be very aware of what is happening.

Greg

 

I agree with the 2x4 block, not only does it distribute the weight, but I have had one on the jack for a long time, It leaves no marks whatsoever on the car wherever you may decide to lift it up. <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />

my .02