spring / shock removal '82 euro S
#1
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spring / shock removal '82 euro S
I am trying to get the front spring / shock assembly out of the car.
I have searched the archives and saw the suggestions of either the upper A arm or lower...
All posts I have found are based on the S4 assembly. Is the '82 the same or do different rules apply?
Also my rubber boot on the upper A arm ball joint is bad, so I gues the upper A arm would be the best choice for me.
So any suggestions and or tips and tricks would be appreciated.
I have searched the archives and saw the suggestions of either the upper A arm or lower...
All posts I have found are based on the S4 assembly. Is the '82 the same or do different rules apply?
Also my rubber boot on the upper A arm ball joint is bad, so I gues the upper A arm would be the best choice for me.
So any suggestions and or tips and tricks would be appreciated.
#2
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can't help with the S4 vs '82 model.............all I know is I've done this project and those springs are tough.
I followed the Tony H method of removing the LCA and dismantling the assembly on the bench......the first spring compressor I used failed badly and scared the living hell outta me..........be advised that if you use 3 compressors per spring your probably ok.
getting at the UCA is apparently an issue of tight fit with the engine in situ................sure someone can advise.
I followed the Tony H method of removing the LCA and dismantling the assembly on the bench......the first spring compressor I used failed badly and scared the living hell outta me..........be advised that if you use 3 compressors per spring your probably ok.
getting at the UCA is apparently an issue of tight fit with the engine in situ................sure someone can advise.
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I think you have slightly more room with the earlier suspension because the upper A-arm is 19mm longer and the lower is 12mm longer. The shock mounting points are in the same place early or late.
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You really want to use S-4 uppers so you can get more negative camber it also needs shims to keep from having too much negative camber...I have about 3.5 negative on the old very brown 1980 sems to work well with DOT race tires like the Kuhmo V710.
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Jim, Can you get 2-2.5 degrees of negative camber out of the stock early arms or early lower/late upper? Most of the tires I've been looking at like 2-2.5 degrees. (MPSC, Hoosier Grand AM Cup)
#6
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I just did this a few months ago.
Just accept the fact that you have to take the upper A arm off. It isn't that bad and it makes the job of fixing the balljoint much easier. I took the strut assemblies to a tire store and for $40.00 they swapped the shocks. A bargain in my mind, those springs are a PIA. I ordered the upper balljoint replacement kit from 928motorsport. I did the entire job at a leisurely pace over a weekend.
Just accept the fact that you have to take the upper A arm off. It isn't that bad and it makes the job of fixing the balljoint much easier. I took the strut assemblies to a tire store and for $40.00 they swapped the shocks. A bargain in my mind, those springs are a PIA. I ordered the upper balljoint replacement kit from 928motorsport. I did the entire job at a leisurely pace over a weekend.
#7
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I did my old 82 and while it was tight.. I did it w/o removing the upper A-arm. The key is that once you have loosened/removed the lower control arm, wou will need to lift the upper A-arm while wiggling the shock. It will come out.