Rear Thermostat Seal
#1
Rear Thermostat Seal
I replaced my torn up rear thermostat seal and now my car SEEMS to run cooler on the dash temp gauge. I don't understand why this would be so even though others have noted the same thing. Can any one explain?
#2
Ernest...you are opening a can of worms here! Thermostat operation is going to open the debate floodgates...AND - I am SURE many will disagree with me...BUT (or in my case - from an earlier problem and post..."Butt Plug" -> see this post... <a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=004872#000003" target="_blank">http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=004872#000003</a>
Simply - the sharks tstat works (sorta) in reverse...so - having the rear seal leaking causes a 'partially open' situation...allowing some coolant to bypass the engine and go back to the rad. (if the tstat is gone - everything goes thru the backside - effectively bypassing the engine and circulating thru the rad - conversely - with the rear 'butt plugged' and no tstat - it creates an alway open cooling system...constantly curculating the coolant thru the engine and back to the rad).
So - when you replaced the seal - you stopped the leaking. Now when your tstat is closed - it is not 'losing' the bypass of the proper flow...
I THINK....DAMMIT...this dang cooling theory give me headaches...it is kinda like thinking about "Infinity" too much!
Just click on that link I put in at the beginning - it will answer ALL your questions...and confuse the $hit out of you at the same time!!
YMMV!
Simply - the sharks tstat works (sorta) in reverse...so - having the rear seal leaking causes a 'partially open' situation...allowing some coolant to bypass the engine and go back to the rad. (if the tstat is gone - everything goes thru the backside - effectively bypassing the engine and circulating thru the rad - conversely - with the rear 'butt plugged' and no tstat - it creates an alway open cooling system...constantly curculating the coolant thru the engine and back to the rad).
So - when you replaced the seal - you stopped the leaking. Now when your tstat is closed - it is not 'losing' the bypass of the proper flow...
I THINK....DAMMIT...this dang cooling theory give me headaches...it is kinda like thinking about "Infinity" too much!
Just click on that link I put in at the beginning - it will answer ALL your questions...and confuse the $hit out of you at the same time!!
YMMV!
#4
Hey Ernest,
I actually just replaced mine last week after a battle with a cooling problem where it would heat up on the move and actually cool down a little when I stopped and this $15.00 little part (which was replaced after pulling the radiator to have it tested and many other things checked) made all the difference in the world. I have an electric fan hooked up to a switch and at night I hardly ever have to turn it on unless I am sitting still for a long time.
If only I would have done this when I did the thermostat, but mine was down to just metal and I didn't even realize it was there.
I actually just replaced mine last week after a battle with a cooling problem where it would heat up on the move and actually cool down a little when I stopped and this $15.00 little part (which was replaced after pulling the radiator to have it tested and many other things checked) made all the difference in the world. I have an electric fan hooked up to a switch and at night I hardly ever have to turn it on unless I am sitting still for a long time.
If only I would have done this when I did the thermostat, but mine was down to just metal and I didn't even realize it was there.
#5
When the thermostat seals against the seat, all the water is sent through the radiator instead of recirculating through the block. This is why you cannot run without a thermostat. My seat is toast but the last time I was in there, I couldn't get the old one out and didn't want to damage the housing until I found out how. My car runs cool but I will be interested to see how much difference it makes after I replace it.
<img src="http://www.flash.net/~ego/thrmseat.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.flash.net/~ego/thrmseat.jpg" alt=" - " />
#6
Removing the inner seal can be a bit of a challenge. I used a 3' nail with the pointy end bent 270 degrees and with a pair of vice-grips to hold the nail, I pulled the edge upward. It worked well, and without scoring the casting.
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#10
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Cobey:
<strong>Interesting. I took a peek at mine, since it it out, and found no inner seal at all. Should my older model have one?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Cobie,
The rubber seat was introduced from the 1984 model - Before there is only a alu-seat, but this can corrode, and then you have an even bigger problem! <img border="0" alt="[byebye]" title="" src="graemlins/wave.gif" />
<strong>Interesting. I took a peek at mine, since it it out, and found no inner seal at all. Should my older model have one?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Cobie,
The rubber seat was introduced from the 1984 model - Before there is only a alu-seat, but this can corrode, and then you have an even bigger problem! <img border="0" alt="[byebye]" title="" src="graemlins/wave.gif" />