Thanks Richard, let me know how much it cost you. I expect that I will need to send mine in as well. Did you send in the entire guage cluster of just the speedo unit?

 

Curt, I sent only the speedometer/odometer unit. They said they can expedite the service for me so I can get it back this week...may have to pay extra for that.

"Time is money....I don't have any time and soon will have less money"

Rich.

 

Seems like a lot of '79s have the same problem. I would like to get my odometer spinning without shipping it off to California.

I saw Randy V.'s post with the links on what to do when you get the instrument panel into your hands. On Rennlist FAQs, I read that Greg Nichols has a link on how to remove the instrument panel from the dash.

Can someone please direct me to that link?

Thank you,

'79 Gold/Tan Auto

<a href="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p232ab6698b92fd97eb28d2b759473e83/fc333227.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p232ab6698b92fd97eb28d2b759473e83/fc333227.jpg</a>

 

Hi,
It's not really that hard to get the pod off, I just did it last week. I took some pictures, but the best picture you could take would be with your eyes lying down on your back under the pod (take a light). Pull the buttons off and mark them to thier connectors or remember where each goes. You'll eventually have to squeeze the connectors to push then inside the pod to remove it.
Lower the pod adjuster, there is a Phillips screw and a couple of 10 or 13 mm bolts (I forget which for sure) and the black plastic plate on the bottom of the pod comes off.
Then you'll need to remove the Allan key bolts, and you will need a long Allen key or an extension of some sort because they are deep. On the right side of the pod the shorter Allen key bolt is holding a bracket that is also attached to another Allen key bolt that is holding your instrument panel within the right side of the pod.
Once you remove the shorter Allen key described holding the bracket and the Allen key holding the left side of the instrument panel into the pod, you can access the last Allen key on the right. I accessed it from the top of the pod by leaning across my center console and looking between the back of the right hand side of the pod lifting it slightly so I could see it between the dash and the pod.
All the wire connections are common except the bracket ones, which have plastic levers/claws on their backs that lock the brackets to the blue circuit board on the back. Be careful with those 3 they break easy. Don’t forget to mark your steering wheel after you pull your horn off and remove the 27mm bolt holding it on. I used whiteout. I think that's all, hope that helps since I don’t have the link, good luck!

Troy
-86.5

 

Try this for Nichols site. If you have any problems removing the dash let me know, I just removed mine and can give you some tips.

<a href="http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm" target="_blank">http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm</a>

Good luck, Rich.

 

ok i had the same problem once in my 84 speedo would not go over 60 but the odometer worked so i changed it and still no difference until i changed the circuit board. here it is straight from the 928intl catalog "A failed circuit board can be misdiagnosed as a bad gauge. Check the rear of the instrument panel for bad contacts. You can try using a pencil eraser to clean up copper contacts"
just remember if your ciruit board was never changed that it is 24 years old Curt.

Lou
83 5 speed with aftermarket s4 fiberglass bumpers

 

Lou, changed out the circuit board about 1 year ago. All guages worked after that. Now Im just getting no odometer or tripodometer after the car warms up.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Lorenfb:
<strong>This question has been posted many times.
...... You must completely remove the "ribbon" circuit board and resolder
a section.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Also solder the rivets who transfer the el-connection from the front to back side of the printed circuit (Placed just behind the Speedo)
I BTDT and since then no more Speedo problems
<img border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" title="" src="graemlins/bigok.gif" />

 

Removing the pod:

<a href="http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/products/r_&_r.htm" target="_blank">Pod Removal</a>

 

Once again, the group has come through with great help.

I will let you know what happens.

Thanks for the links and advice.