Adam Geist

To all,

The 17mm wrench I purchased to counterhold the fuel rail is made by Park Tools (well known tool manufacturer for bicycles). Part# SCW-17 and cost $8.95 at the local bike shop.

As Mike said, it worked just fine.

Adam

Sailmed

I found the old one in the passenger foot well.... Yes -my bad - replace this too

F451

Nice! Thanks Mike! I have been quietly freakin everytime I would starting up my S4 since I bought it.

I was considering pulling the engine and this was one of the things I was going to tackle. I think I will get this done with engine in place for now. It will give me good peace of mind until I pull the motor for the rest of the work.

And great tips on the rest of the fuel lines guys. -Ed

mj1pate

I did the complete top side refurb on my 86.5. The original coating on the pipes and wings was a bear to remove. Bead blasting didn't touch the coatings on my pipes. I had to have the pieces sand blasted. Just be aware that this can be very labor intensive and the labor cost for blasting was the biggest expense of the entire job (including breather hoses, injector refurb and gaskets). Get set up to do the blasting yourself ahead of time and save yourself the financial grief. Also, if you plan on painting the valve covers, talk to Rog about the Home Depot rubberized washer replacements for the original valve cover washers and save about $100.00.

Mike

Mike Frye

Ed, Do it! Less than 3 hours at a nice leisurely pace. Parts are not expensive at all, and the peace of mind is priceless.

Thanks Mike. I'm still not sure what I want to do with the intake yet. Adam and I are working on one of his right now and he got the parts PC-ed at a place by his work. They came out nice, and the guy did mention that he had to bake them a few times to get all of the oil out. I'm wondering if it wouldn't be cheaper or the same cost to get my own media blaster and go to town though.

It may come down to whether I have more money or time when it's time. I know if I paint them myself it won't be as durable as PC, but I like to do things on my own too.


Decisions.....


BTW-
You said you had them sandblasted. I thought you couldn't sandblast magnesium intakes. Does anyone know whether this is a no no or not? (I thought the sand could make sparks with the magnesium or something).

mj1pate

I used DupliColor high temp paint from AutoZone. The quality of application was actually remarkable (considering the quality of the castings). Powder coating is the way to go if you have the resources.

The applicator technician had to use serious pressure and a very abrasive "cutting" media to remove the old coating. He had no complaints and his place was still standing when I went to pick up the parts.

Be aware that there are in excess of 54 gaskets, washers and o-rings required to reassemble the valve covers. I was unpleasantly surprised too. Talk to Rog about inexpensive replacements for those rubberized washers. Good luck with this going forward.

Mike

ROG100

I don't use PC any more because of high cost and poor quality as well as the many problems associated with bead blasting and masking all orifices correctly. Always cam back from the PC place with problems.
I use high temp paint or Caliper paint.
I blast the original paint of myself using Aircraft Paint Stripper and a wire wheel and a media blaster on the easy stuff.
Paint the letters and then clear coat with High Temp engine lacquer.

Mike Frye

Thanks Roger, I was actually leaning this way so I can use that money on a new set of fuel injectors.

I'll be placing an order for LOTS of intake refresh stuff in the next week or so. I just got my annual bonus .

Thanks for the tip Mike. I already had the list from Roger and am just checking off the things I've already done (short list) and planning to send the rest of the order.

RichS 1986928

Hey Mike, the kit I got from Roger (fuel line kit) had two 15mm hose clamps. Where
do those go?? Is it on the little horseshoe hose near the MAF?

Thanks

RichS 1986928

Also, is this a fuel line?

Thanks AGAIN!

leperboy

Rich,
Yes. I looked at mine tonight (while swapping out the vacuum connectors) and I did replace that line with Roger's kit.

Matt

Lizard928

yes.

Mike Frye

RichS,

Yeah, that's the fuel cooler line and you have to cut the swaged fittings off with a dremel and then replace the lines and use the clamps. I have a write-up of that too if you're interested. I thought Roger was including them with the kit, but maybe it's only on request. Let me know if you're interested.

Landseer

Fuel cooler line? How does that work? Is it reliant on the AC operation in hot weather? BTW, thanks for making these posts. It doesn't seem so difficult after reading / seeing pictures.

Mike Frye

It's supposed to work with the AC lines, yes. My AC hasn't been hooked up since I got it so obviously it's not required for operation. I think it's kind of like the reason they ran the A/C through the glove box, an added value kind of thing that seemed like a good idea at the time .

Glad I could help!