Brake line change
04-13-2002, 07:09 PM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: El Cerrito CA
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Brake line change
Just got my new rotors, pads, sensors, etc. This will be first job on my 87 S4 so.... When change lines at each wheel do you bleed when done with each wheel or when done with all? Does this drain the MC and do you bleed it seperately? I assume lines go on firm without teflon tape or sealer being used? Appreciate any tips, gotchas, etc.
Thanx,
Kevin
******
Thanx,
Kevin
******
04-13-2002, 07:41 PM
#2
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Just got my new rotors, pads, sensors, etc. This
will be first job on my 87 S4 so....
When change lines at each wheel do you bleed when done with each wheel or when done with all?
Does this drain the MC and do you bleed it seperately?
Get a couple of pieces of clear plastic tubing that are a snug fit on the two sizes of bleed screws. Get a spill resistant container to catch the fluid. Get several rolls of paper towels. Use safety goggles (best) or glasses.
Use good brake fluid - never use DOT 5 silicone. DOT 5.1 synthetic is good. Many owners like the ATE Gold and Blue, used alternately. Change the fluid AT LEAST every two years.
I would really suggest that you get Speed Bleeder Screws for all brake bleeders and the clutch bleeder (5-speed only). We -and the other vendors - sell them.
1) Jack car so you can safely work under it.
2) Remove all four wheels.
3) Using a six-point box-end wrench, loosen, then lightly snug the bleed screw on one wheel. Slip a tightly-fitting clear plastic line over the bleed screw, and put the end of the line in a spill-resistant container.
4) Loosen the bleed screw, and pump the brake pedal until no more fluid comes out.
5) Install new lines and Speed Bleeders at each wheel. No sealer, no tape. I do like to use anti-sieze on the bleed screws. There will still be some spillage - be sure to avoid getting brake fluid on any finished surface - it can eat paint. Watch for hand prints while sliding out from under the car. Be sure that the lines are not twisted.
6) Go to the right rear wheel and bleed the brakes. This will take several pumps - be sure to keep the fluid reservoir from emptying. Use the six-point box-end wrench to break the screws loose - you can use an open-end after that.
7) Go to the left rear wheel and bleed. Go to the right front wheel and bleed. Go to the left front wheel and bleed. Check the brake pedal - should be high and firm (engine not running).
8) Flush and bleed the clutch (5-speed only)
9) Wipe everything down, stand hard on the brake pedal for thirty seconds, and check for leaks with a good light.
will be first job on my 87 S4 so....
When change lines at each wheel do you bleed when done with each wheel or when done with all?
Does this drain the MC and do you bleed it seperately?
Get a couple of pieces of clear plastic tubing that are a snug fit on the two sizes of bleed screws. Get a spill resistant container to catch the fluid. Get several rolls of paper towels. Use safety goggles (best) or glasses.
Use good brake fluid - never use DOT 5 silicone. DOT 5.1 synthetic is good. Many owners like the ATE Gold and Blue, used alternately. Change the fluid AT LEAST every two years.
I would really suggest that you get Speed Bleeder Screws for all brake bleeders and the clutch bleeder (5-speed only). We -and the other vendors - sell them.
1) Jack car so you can safely work under it.
2) Remove all four wheels.
3) Using a six-point box-end wrench, loosen, then lightly snug the bleed screw on one wheel. Slip a tightly-fitting clear plastic line over the bleed screw, and put the end of the line in a spill-resistant container.
4) Loosen the bleed screw, and pump the brake pedal until no more fluid comes out.
5) Install new lines and Speed Bleeders at each wheel. No sealer, no tape. I do like to use anti-sieze on the bleed screws. There will still be some spillage - be sure to avoid getting brake fluid on any finished surface - it can eat paint. Watch for hand prints while sliding out from under the car. Be sure that the lines are not twisted.
6) Go to the right rear wheel and bleed the brakes. This will take several pumps - be sure to keep the fluid reservoir from emptying. Use the six-point box-end wrench to break the screws loose - you can use an open-end after that.
7) Go to the left rear wheel and bleed. Go to the right front wheel and bleed. Go to the left front wheel and bleed. Check the brake pedal - should be high and firm (engine not running).
8) Flush and bleed the clutch (5-speed only)
9) Wipe everything down, stand hard on the brake pedal for thirty seconds, and check for leaks with a good light.