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No start, they flood easy

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Old 01-28-2011, 12:43 PM
  #16  
AO
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You may want to check the Temp II readings at the LH plug. There have been documented cases where the problem was in the wiring harness.
Old 01-28-2011, 12:54 PM
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James Bailey
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OK so if there are problems or none stock injectors THEN S-4s flood easily......I think I got it
Old 01-28-2011, 01:16 PM
  #18  
AO
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Jim-

This doesn't apply to your very brown '82. Move along.
Old 01-28-2011, 02:06 PM
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James Bailey
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It is the old very brown 1980.....and it never floods
Old 01-28-2011, 02:12 PM
  #20  
AO
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My apologies... It must be those acting gigs. You make it look younger than it is.
Old 01-28-2011, 02:35 PM
  #21  
Mrmerlin
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check the vacuum lines to the dampers and FPR if you smell fuel then its leaking this will also cause the rich starting
The DO NOT jump start information is in the WSM
Old 01-28-2011, 03:17 PM
  #22  
SQLGuy
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Here's what I found in WSM 1A (page 28-44):

Conformance with following safety measures
is necessary to avoid damage on the electronic
ignition system.
1. Never start engine without a firmly
connected battery.
2. Mixing up power supply connections, e.g.
wrong connection of battery, could lead to
destruction of the control units.
3. Never disconnect battery while engine is
running.
4. Never use a boost battery charger to start
the engine. Only use a second 12 V battery
for outside starting help.


In other words, you can jump start, but you should do it from a non-running helper vehicle.
Old 01-28-2011, 03:22 PM
  #23  
SQLGuy
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Originally Posted by dprantl
There are two versions of LH in 928's. '84 - '86.5 is LH 2.2 (in '84 EuroS only), and '87 - '95 is LH 2.3.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Interesting. I'm still wondering then whether my car has a flood clear mode based on WOT or not. If this wasn't added until 2.4...?

If it does, it definitely isn't working. With the fuel pump fuse removed, the flood cleared after just a couple of seconds of cranking. With the fuse in, before, I had certainly tried a good 30 seconds of cranking with the pedal floored, with no improvement.

I've checked the damper line vacuum hoses before, and they were OK. I had this flooding problem a couple of times last year as well. It's not new, but it is very intermittent. I'll check the damper lines again, as well as the LH side readings for Temp II and the WOT switch.

Cheers,
Paul
Old 01-28-2011, 04:39 PM
  #24  
dprantl
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The WOT while starting to unflood method has not worked on either of the 928's I have owned, that's why I always recommend just pulling the fuel pump fuse. IMO LH2.2 and LH2.3 do not have this feature, but who cares when it's so easy to pull the fuse.

If your FPR and damper vacuum lines are dry and do not smell like fuel, and you are sure your TempII sensor and associated wiring is good, then it could be leaking injectors? Another possibility you probably don't want to hear is dying LH brain.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Old 01-28-2011, 05:05 PM
  #25  
jon928se
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Originally Posted by dprantl
If you are really fast, you can reinsert the fuse while the car is still running

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
I suspect you'ld need to be an Olympic standard gymnast ora contortionist to get from starting the car to CE panel fast enough.
Old 01-28-2011, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jon928se
I suspect you'ld need to be an Olympic standard gymnast ora contortionist to get from starting the car to CE panel fast enough.
You would be surprised how long a flooded 928 can idle without the fuel pump running. Sometimes 5 seconds or more... but yeah, you have to "dive" over the center console and be pretty accurate

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Old 01-28-2011, 06:45 PM
  #27  
davek9
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Originally Posted by dprantl
The WOT while starting to unflood method has not worked on either of the 928's I have owned, that's why I always recommend just pulling the fuel pump fuse. IMO LH2.2 and LH2.3 do not have this feature, but who cares when it's so easy to pull the fuse.

If your FPR and damper vacuum lines are dry and do not smell like fuel, and you are sure your TempII sensor and associated wiring is good, then it could be leaking injectors? Another possibility you probably don't want to hear is dying LH brain.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Maybe I can help w/this WOT method to dry out a flooded eng.

I found out on a '90 Auto that the Auto Trans Kick down Relay has a "feature" that will kill the Fuel Injectors while cranking if the Kick down switch is "closed", i.e. peddle to floor (note switch must me in working order

I do not know when this “feature” was added to the Automatics (thinking a look-up of the relay types would tell) nor do I know of or by what system a similar “feature” for the manuals trans 928’s exists (I do not believe one does).

Hope this helps,

Dave K9
Old 01-28-2011, 07:06 PM
  #28  
dr bob
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If you think the engine might be flooded and you want to ventilate it the easiest way, park it and leave it overnight withthe accel pedal pushed to the floor. Cylinders with exhaust valves open (about 25% of them at any given rotation) will vent on their own. Cylinders with intake open (an overlapping 25%) need a place for the fumes to ventilate; having the throttle open allows for that. It also clears vapors from the intake. It may take a long while at really cold temps, but usually overnight is enough for almost any temp.
Old 01-28-2011, 08:29 PM
  #29  
Imo000
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Originally Posted by AO
........................The Temp II sensor tells the LH to add fuel if it's cold. If the sensor is not grounded or has failed, the LH will go full rich. and it doesn't take long to flood the car. Holding the pedal down all the way and cranking is the only way to clear this (aside from letting it site for 24 to 48 hours). On my '87 it would take as much as 30 seconds to a full minute to clear and start. Also remember, Once this happens, the plugs are likely to be fouled... so the more it happens, the harder it will be to start..................
My understanding is that fouled plugs and wet plugs are two, totally, different things?
Old 01-28-2011, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dr bob
If you think the engine might be flooded and you want to ventilate it the easiest way, park it and leave it overnight withthe accel pedal pushed to the floor. Cylinders with exhaust valves open (about 25% of them at any given rotation) will vent on their own. Cylinders with intake open (an overlapping 25%) need a place for the fumes to ventilate; having the throttle open allows for that. It also clears vapors from the intake. It may take a long while at really cold temps, but usually overnight is enough for almost any temp.
I expect this would work, but I don't see why it's preferable to pulling the fuel pump fuse and starting the car in a few seconds.


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