I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this, but...

I have vibration at +65 mph - in the seat, not the wheel - and on fast sweepers there is a louder groan/grind from the rear which clears when the curve ends.

Looks like I'm due for a couple replacements, but I'd like to first confirm the symptoms. No play apparent in the wheels. Any chance this is CV-joint related?

Thx.

 

Jim,

I'm sure you checked for anything rubbing - there's not really much that could, but...

Sounds likely it could be your rear bearings. Do you also have a droning hum/rumble coming from the rear at say, 30+ MPH? (Also a symptom of bad rear bearings.)

Also, you might want to look at your trans mounts. If they are shot (de-vulcanized) then the trans can shift as you corner. This is also not good.

You can do the bearings on car, but I find it much easier to work with if you simply pull the hub carrier off. In short- remove wheel, remove brake caliper and hang with wire, remove brake rotor, remove upper suspension arm bolt, remove axle nut (air is very helpful), disconnect e-brake cable, undo and partially withdraw jumbo-honkin-pivot-bolt. Press out old bearing. Use a propane or MAPP torch to heat the carrier and the bearing should press out easily.

Install new bearing by heating carrier, and putting bearing in freezer for 30 minutes or so. Most of the time it will literally drop right in. Chill the hub and it too should slide in easily.

HTH,

Greg

 

Thanks, Greg. Sadly, the answer to your question is "yes".

Timing is pretty good, though, as it was time for CV boot replacement anyway. Speaking of which, can the RW bearings get contaminated if the inner CV boot gets trashed?

Ok, so out they come. Is a bearing press required or is there a mechanic's workaround that will do the same function?

(Unfortunately, this operation will have to wait 12 days, until the 9 stiches in my right hand come out. Lost the grip last night on the wrench changing my girlfriend's (car's) differential oil...funny, I've never been hurt working on the 928, but a crappy Toyota bites me...)

 

Jim,

Sorry to hear about the hand, I have yet to be "sharkbit" seriously either - let's see how long my luck holds...

Once you pull the hub carrier off the car, it is relatively easy to work with. The hub itself usually pushes out pretty easily (esp. if you heat the bearing a bit) but most decent autoparts stores will have a press - makes the removal much easier. You'll also need a 2 or 3 prong puller to remove the bearing race that sticks to the hub on withdrawl. (If it sticks, use heat. If it is corroded, you can score it with a hacksaw blade and fracture it, though that should be your last option.)

The bearing itself usually will press out readily, and I really recommend a press for removal. Once again, you can heat the hubcarrier and drive the bearing out if you have no other choice - it works, but you could damage something.

Reinstall, I really recommend the "shrink and expand to fit" method. Heat the carrier, freeze the bearing. It should literally drop right in. If you press it and it is not perfectly aligned, it will fail, and who wants to replace it again.

Good luck,

Greg

 

Thanks again. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

Passing comment--

We had a little 'clinic' last weekend, where we did a motor mount and sump gasket swap. With a few of us working on it, it was better than single-handed, that's for sure.

I found myself constantly reminding the players that you should always PULL on the wrench handle if at all possible. Seems like almost every time I violate that rule, I end up with barked knuckles (at best) when the wrench finally lets go.

Also-- Anybody developed any opinions on the various "mechanics gloves" seen around? I wear painters gloves just for the grease protection. These are heavier-duty woven gloves that look like they might be good when doing the heavy-duty stuff, able to protect the hands when I get careless and push on the wrench. Anyway-- experiences or opinions?

 

Points taken, Doctor. My problem this time was oversight, not technique. But my tale adds an addendum - only wrench on clean bolts.

I was pulling - hard - when the plug came loose all at once. (Here's the part where I screwed up) it was a 10mm allen bolt, and I did not clean out the bolt hole sufficiently. When it came loose, the wrench popped out of the bolt, and drove my hand backwards into the (rusty) tranny pan - cut very deep. (9 stitches, 1 tetnus shot, and a queasy girlfriend; the last was worth the price of admission).

I tried the gloves for a while; I have become so accustomed to feeling my way through the various crannies of the engine bay that it was like trying to type in mittens. Maybe I'll rethink that position now...

 

dr bob wrote: [quote]Also-- Anybody developed any opinions on the various "mechanics gloves" seen around?... Anyway-- experiences or opinions?<hr></blockquote>

I usually use nitrile gloves. They are good for chemical protection (cleaners, gas, oil,ect.) I pick them up locally for $10.00 a box. Same price as Harbor Freight. They usually come off when I need to put on small nuts or they get to much oil on them and everything gets slippery.
Also pick up a pair of those "mechanics gloves" a month ago. They seem good for work like changing tires or unbolting exhaust. The package stated you can was them.

The funny thing is that I still seem to get my hands dirty.

 

i generally will start with the nitrile glove on... start working on something... take them off so i can use my fingers... forget to put them back on... get my hands filthy, then remember i shoudl be wearing gloves =)

 

'Blue nitrile' gloves are the smart choice for most work; however, the most feel/accuracy is with bare hands - the dumb(er) choice... yes, I usually do the latter!
For 'hi-risk' wrenching, I admire the "mechanic" kevlar reinforced, bullet proof gloves; however, at the same price as premier hand sewn calfskin gloves to go with a 3-pc Saville Row suit, I pass and buy the leather 3-pack work gloves: they offer good grip and protection - and can be tossed afterwards when grease saturated.