New door window seal and guides - too much resistance now
04-06-2002, 11:23 PM
#1
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New door window seal and guides - too much resistance now
I replaced the lower door window seal, felt guides, and the plastic window guidess on the drivers side today. It turned out to be a little more complicated than I thought, but I got it all back together nicely.
However, now the motor can barely moove the window up and down. I tried various adjustments, but it seems the new outer seal and felt guides put such an enormous pressure on the glass that the motor can hardly move it.
Has anybody else done this "surgery"? Is there a trick, or is this going to get easier over the next couple of days, as things settle? I left things disassembled for now...
However, now the motor can barely moove the window up and down. I tried various adjustments, but it seems the new outer seal and felt guides put such an enormous pressure on the glass that the motor can hardly move it.
Has anybody else done this "surgery"? Is there a trick, or is this going to get easier over the next couple of days, as things settle? I left things disassembled for now...
04-07-2002, 12:52 AM
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Nicole-
Don't know about the felt pices, but I replaced the upper and lower guides last summer. No problemns to report here...are you certain that you let the window guide 'guide' itself during the installation process?
Those guides can be finicky....
Don't know about the felt pices, but I replaced the upper and lower guides last summer. No problemns to report here...are you certain that you let the window guide 'guide' itself during the installation process?
Those guides can be finicky....
04-07-2002, 12:54 AM
#3
Nicole,
Sounds like you might have to play with with the guides. As a baseline, were the felt guides loosened when you ran the window all the way up ... then tightened?
there are some tips on the Nichols site... check both the interior and exterior sections.
On the flip side...
As I recall from one of your posts a couple of months ago you just had a seal that was cracking,
right? And like as not you decided to replace some stuff while you were in there. You might get away with just snugging the guide - don't reef them up super tight - and work from there.
The new seals - so I've heard - are supposed to
'relax' after a little use taking the tension off of the glass and relieving the strain on ye olde window motor. Take a look at the old guides, even with the felt worn off of them they should be salvageable. WalMart has all kinds of velcro and felt strips ... the glue be with you.
Hey! Did you save any of the old rubber weather strip? About 4 or 5 inches? I'll pay you ten bucks plus shipping ... browsing. If you will do this I need a piece INTACT including that little lock strip that always seems to tear off in its guide track. How were the plastic/nylon rollers?
Did you clean and lube everything?
Pray for the patience of a buzzard.
Later, John S and Pattycakes <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />
Sounds like you might have to play with with the guides. As a baseline, were the felt guides loosened when you ran the window all the way up ... then tightened?
there are some tips on the Nichols site... check both the interior and exterior sections.
On the flip side...
As I recall from one of your posts a couple of months ago you just had a seal that was cracking,
right? And like as not you decided to replace some stuff while you were in there. You might get away with just snugging the guide - don't reef them up super tight - and work from there.
The new seals - so I've heard - are supposed to
'relax' after a little use taking the tension off of the glass and relieving the strain on ye olde window motor. Take a look at the old guides, even with the felt worn off of them they should be salvageable. WalMart has all kinds of velcro and felt strips ... the glue be with you.
Hey! Did you save any of the old rubber weather strip? About 4 or 5 inches? I'll pay you ten bucks plus shipping ... browsing. If you will do this I need a piece INTACT including that little lock strip that always seems to tear off in its guide track. How were the plastic/nylon rollers?
Did you clean and lube everything?
Pray for the patience of a buzzard.
Later, John S and Pattycakes <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />
04-07-2002, 01:34 AM
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Nicole, Dont forget you need to allow for aligning the glass so it homes into the top of the door without strain. This means leaving the bolts on the bottom nylon guide loose -ish , run the window up, then snug the bolts at the bottom. On mine, the old nylon guide has damage to the metal inserts that made it difficult to get the bolt to slide to anywhere else than it had spent its life - ie it resisted adjustment. If you replaced the guide, shouldnt be a problem. On one side of mine I kept the old guides, just removed slack with a cable tie around the post.
good luck.
jp
good luck.
jp
04-07-2002, 04:49 AM
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JP: I did do the adjustment exactly as you describe. I don't think the problem is in the area of the plastic guides and the rail. It really became hard to move the window, after the new felt guides were put in. Someone on the other board suggested to remove them again and press them a little.
John: You can't really tighten those felt guides very well with the window up. But I don't think it really makes a difference - even with the window rolled down there is the same thickness of glass between the outer seal and the felt guides. If you want, you can have the old outer seal - It has a crack starting about 5 inches from the front to the curved area in towards the rear, plus it tore in one place during removal. It's not really worth anything. I'm not sure what "plastic rollers" you refer to - are you talking about the white plastic guides that move up and down the rail?
Jay: If you are referring to the rail, then I probably did it the right way. Basically, with all the adjustment screws loose I closed the window, then tightened the screws. Is that correct?
I will have to go through this whole thing again in the next couple of days. The window tint had started to get light scratches, which prompted me to do all this "guide" sutff. Unfortunately, in the process I put two new and deep scratches in the tint, so I'll have to remove the glass and get it retinted with the matching stuff. <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
No, I'm not going to give these [tinting] guys the whole car again - last time they screwed it up so badly that I had to take it to the dealer to get it in decent shape again. It cost them three times as much as I paid for the tinting...
John: You can't really tighten those felt guides very well with the window up. But I don't think it really makes a difference - even with the window rolled down there is the same thickness of glass between the outer seal and the felt guides. If you want, you can have the old outer seal - It has a crack starting about 5 inches from the front to the curved area in towards the rear, plus it tore in one place during removal. It's not really worth anything. I'm not sure what "plastic rollers" you refer to - are you talking about the white plastic guides that move up and down the rail?
Jay: If you are referring to the rail, then I probably did it the right way. Basically, with all the adjustment screws loose I closed the window, then tightened the screws. Is that correct?
I will have to go through this whole thing again in the next couple of days. The window tint had started to get light scratches, which prompted me to do all this "guide" sutff. Unfortunately, in the process I put two new and deep scratches in the tint, so I'll have to remove the glass and get it retinted with the matching stuff. <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
No, I'm not going to give these [tinting] guys the whole car again - last time they screwed it up so badly that I had to take it to the dealer to get it in decent shape again. It cost them three times as much as I paid for the tinting...
04-07-2002, 05:26 AM
#6
Nicole,
I was refering to the regulator guide/track roller. $20.00 at 928 International. You know, sometime back I read a post where a guy said he had two(2) regulator arms -double scissor type- now that was odd! As to the seal its' not for use ... I'm on a search of sorts.
I just need a small piece 6" to a foot long but it has to have that little - hard to stuff in the groove piece on it - not ripped off. You can mail it - Small, heavy, yellow envelope should do(if you want to) to:
John Struthers
2505 Rainbow Circle
Midland, Texas 79707
I'll send you $20.00 for the pain.
Either send your home or work address which ever makes you comfortable - strange times we live in -.
CRAP! JUST HIT BY LIGHTNING, ALL THE LIGHTS ARE FLICKERING.
SEE YA LATTER, HALF MY CIRCUIT BREAKERS JUST TRIPPED AND ALL OF THE SPRINKLER SYSTEM VALVE BOXES ARE SHOOTING WATER 15 FT. HIGH! <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />
I was refering to the regulator guide/track roller. $20.00 at 928 International. You know, sometime back I read a post where a guy said he had two(2) regulator arms -double scissor type- now that was odd! As to the seal its' not for use ... I'm on a search of sorts.
I just need a small piece 6" to a foot long but it has to have that little - hard to stuff in the groove piece on it - not ripped off. You can mail it - Small, heavy, yellow envelope should do(if you want to) to:
John Struthers
2505 Rainbow Circle
Midland, Texas 79707
I'll send you $20.00 for the pain.
Either send your home or work address which ever makes you comfortable - strange times we live in -.
CRAP! JUST HIT BY LIGHTNING, ALL THE LIGHTS ARE FLICKERING.
SEE YA LATTER, HALF MY CIRCUIT BREAKERS JUST TRIPPED AND ALL OF THE SPRINKLER SYSTEM VALVE BOXES ARE SHOOTING WATER 15 FT. HIGH! <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />
04-07-2002, 05:46 AM
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John:
That roller you are referring to, it must be a metal part that is in the arm that moves the window up and down. I did not remove or replace that one.
Email me at nicole@mossinger.com to make arrangements for sending you the old seal.
That roller you are referring to, it must be a metal part that is in the arm that moves the window up and down. I did not remove or replace that one.
Email me at nicole@mossinger.com to make arrangements for sending you the old seal.
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04-07-2002, 03:53 PM
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Nicole,
When I rebuilt my driver's side window, I was amazed at the "tightness" of it all. With the motor removed, you had to push hard to move the glass.
If adjusting the felt guides doesn't do the trick, you might want to check the voltage at the window motor. The door wires often go bad, and if you don't get enough juice to the motor, it won't be able to move the newly tighted window.
HTH,
Greg
When I rebuilt my driver's side window, I was amazed at the "tightness" of it all. With the motor removed, you had to push hard to move the glass.
If adjusting the felt guides doesn't do the trick, you might want to check the voltage at the window motor. The door wires often go bad, and if you don't get enough juice to the motor, it won't be able to move the newly tighted window.
HTH,
Greg
04-08-2002, 07:56 PM
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Called up the tinting guys today: If I just bring the glass, they wans $35 to retint it. Doesn't sound too bad, but i'm not excited about taking the glass out and the risk of scratching it again when putting it back in. Hopefully I'll have some time later in the week to deal with this.
04-14-2002, 04:15 AM
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Took the window out this week, had it retinted, put everything back together today.
After greaseing the guide and plastic sliders, the window at least rolls up all the way, but it still has a lot of resistance, and really slows down the further up it gets. I'm a little worried about the stress on the window motor.
Oh, and after I got everything cleaned up I realized there is a hazy area in the new tint. Drove down to the window tinting company, and they said this should disappear within a couple of days, as the adhesive cures. They say it goes away faster if the car is in the sun, but I'm not going to let it sit in the sun just for that. Hope the guy is right, though. I would not want to remove that window again. What a project!
After greaseing the guide and plastic sliders, the window at least rolls up all the way, but it still has a lot of resistance, and really slows down the further up it gets. I'm a little worried about the stress on the window motor.
Oh, and after I got everything cleaned up I realized there is a hazy area in the new tint. Drove down to the window tinting company, and they said this should disappear within a couple of days, as the adhesive cures. They say it goes away faster if the car is in the sun, but I'm not going to let it sit in the sun just for that. Hope the guy is right, though. I would not want to remove that window again. What a project!
04-20-2002, 10:51 PM
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6 days after my last post, the cloudiness in the tint is gone, and the window rolls up more easily. I guess those rubber and felt pieces just need time to settle...
