Fuel Distributor Is Kicking My A**!!!!
#34
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Andrew, if you are archiving (or for anyone else) there are some points that I found are important that the write ups and suggestion I have do not mention. Not sure why, but they certainly seem important to me.
1) COMPLETE care should be taken when handling ALL parts of the Fuel Distributer
2) There are tiny screens inside the 8 jets located at the top of the FD. These are under the banjo bolts
feeding the injector lines. Clean them if you can get them out. Compresses air from the bottom of the
jet may or may not help, but BE CAREFUL not to lose them when doing this.
3) I recommend removing everything except the jets in the top of the FD as it is not necessary to remove
them.
4) Make sure all passages are clean and free of debris. There are pin hole passages that can easily be
missed if you do not look hard. For Example: with the pressure regulator removed and the allen head
screw removed, there is a tiny passage that runs into the plunger barrel chamber. Easy to miss.
5) Be very careful with the screen around the plunger barrel. This is held on by 2 split metal rings.
Remove this screen before cleaning barrel.
6) There is a pin hole in the bottom half of the plunger barrel that needs to line up with that pin hole
passage mentioned in "4)".
7) Align the barrel so that the O-ring passages point to he center of the chambers.
8) Pay attention to the position of the plunger barrel when tightening the 30mm nut. The barrel can
rotate out of alignment. Do not tighten the nut super tight, just nice and snug.
9) I used brake cleaner with a toothbrush to clean all of the parts and used compressed air to
immediately dry. I also used a fine Scotch scruffing pad to get the stubborn residue off the mating
surfaces while giving the sealer a surface to bite on. I went lightly on the scruffing!
10) Install the plunger last. Coat it with some thin oil or something and carefully slide it in. Make sure the
chamber and the plunger are absolutely clean!
Thats about all I can think of right now to add to the write ups.
1) COMPLETE care should be taken when handling ALL parts of the Fuel Distributer
2) There are tiny screens inside the 8 jets located at the top of the FD. These are under the banjo bolts
feeding the injector lines. Clean them if you can get them out. Compresses air from the bottom of the
jet may or may not help, but BE CAREFUL not to lose them when doing this.
3) I recommend removing everything except the jets in the top of the FD as it is not necessary to remove
them.
4) Make sure all passages are clean and free of debris. There are pin hole passages that can easily be
missed if you do not look hard. For Example: with the pressure regulator removed and the allen head
screw removed, there is a tiny passage that runs into the plunger barrel chamber. Easy to miss.
5) Be very careful with the screen around the plunger barrel. This is held on by 2 split metal rings.
Remove this screen before cleaning barrel.
6) There is a pin hole in the bottom half of the plunger barrel that needs to line up with that pin hole
passage mentioned in "4)".
7) Align the barrel so that the O-ring passages point to he center of the chambers.
8) Pay attention to the position of the plunger barrel when tightening the 30mm nut. The barrel can
rotate out of alignment. Do not tighten the nut super tight, just nice and snug.
9) I used brake cleaner with a toothbrush to clean all of the parts and used compressed air to
immediately dry. I also used a fine Scotch scruffing pad to get the stubborn residue off the mating
surfaces while giving the sealer a surface to bite on. I went lightly on the scruffing!
10) Install the plunger last. Coat it with some thin oil or something and carefully slide it in. Make sure the
chamber and the plunger are absolutely clean!
Thats about all I can think of right now to add to the write ups.
#35
One thing to add to Keiths list.
The articles I have read emphasize that the valves and springs are flow calibrated to the jets so they should be labeled and reassembled in the same positions. This requires delicacy when removing the top half to insure the springs don't fly off into never never land. I do know that later CIS have adjusters for each cylinder to calibrate the flow.
Dennis
The articles I have read emphasize that the valves and springs are flow calibrated to the jets so they should be labeled and reassembled in the same positions. This requires delicacy when removing the top half to insure the springs don't fly off into never never land. I do know that later CIS have adjusters for each cylinder to calibrate the flow.
Dennis
#36
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Thats interesting Dennis because mine did just that...the springs, spacers and spring hats flew everywhere.
I looked at each one of these things under a magnifying glass to determine what the difference was. I found every piece to be identical to each other, so I personally wasn't too worried about the way they went back. Seems to work fine at the moment.
I looked at each one of these things under a magnifying glass to determine what the difference was. I found every piece to be identical to each other, so I personally wasn't too worried about the way they went back. Seems to work fine at the moment.
#37
Keith,
Mine looked the same also, but I didn't want to be a test case. I do know the later CIS fuel distributors have adjustable valves so matching is not required.
Dennis
Mine looked the same also, but I didn't want to be a test case. I do know the later CIS fuel distributors have adjustable valves so matching is not required.
Dennis
#39
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I used Rich A's PDF instructions. He emailed me and said he ended up sending it out. I also used his suggested O-ring sizes and now that Dennis brings it up, this could be an issue. I did notice the size he called out for the large O ring on the bottom was very wrong. (no offense Rich)
I appreciate all of the responses here.
I appreciate all of the responses here.
#41
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Actually Rich, I have no idea what size I ended up using. Ken L (PORKEN) was here with me when I was reinstalling. I used the size you had called out which was " Fuel Distributor Base O-Ring (1 required) 35mm ID X 39mm OD x 2 mm thick" and it ended up being too thick. I couldn't get the FD to seat. There is not much toleration for the FD to seat and the original O-ring on mine was a bit thinner. Ken just kept handing me O-rings from my O-ring box until I could finally stretch a smaller one around that got thin enough to work. I would say the thickness is closer to 1mm as the original barely bulges out from the groove it rests in.
As you know, I have done several write ups in the past and would be happy to add to yours if you don't want to just take what has already been published here.
As you know, I have done several write ups in the past and would be happy to add to yours if you don't want to just take what has already been published here.