window regulator roller replace. Need info Please.
#1
window regulator roller replace. Need info Please.
I need to replace the small plastic roller that fits into the bottom of the window frame in the pass door of my 81'. It looks like the roller is riveted to the regulator arm through the center of the roller. I have replaced these on other cars in the past, and the rollers were held onto the arm by a metal clip. Is there something I am overlooking here? As it stands, the roller has come apart. The center is still attached to the regulator arm and the outer portion is in the window track. I can push the parts together and hold them tight while rolling up the window, but one good bump or accidently hit the switch and the regulator arm pops out of the roller and the window falls to the bottom of the door. Has anyone replaced these before. Advice needed. Thanks.
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#2
We had a choice?
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Jim, BTDT. The roller and the rivit are available and are easily replaced. I bought mine from 928 International, but the other "Big 2" would probably have them also. Minimal cost. Order some other small items like fastners,ect, to help make the s/h a little more reasonable. (we all need those little ticket items too!) Good luck.
Anthony Tate
79/928 Silver Metallic
Anthony Tate
79/928 Silver Metallic
#3
G Man,
There are two ways to go about this:
1) Right way: If you have the old metal cylinder component still in the arm, you will notice that it is domed in such a fashion as to have been crushed/press-fit into the arm. This is what you're supposed to do. Take the door apart, unbolt regulator (which has arm attached) and slide it out the door. You will then need to put the metal cylinder into the newly cleared out hole (with plastic roller portion appropriately in place). Then find a way to press-fit it onto the arm. This is the most durable way. Once done, you simply put it back in the door and position the roller to slide into the rail by starting with it (window and thus rail) all the way done.
2) The second way to do this, which is a much more speedy method is to drill a small hole in through the backside of the metal cylinder component, place it into the hole of the window arm (with roller appropriately in place) and, using washers, screw in the right sized screw, using Loctite. Notice that the screw's function (with washers) is only to pin the arm over the metal cylinder such that the screw is not actually having any force applied in the vertical direction. The horizontal force applied by the arm serves only to back the screw out - something Loctite should have a decent grip on. This is the way I did it. I roll my window up and down constantly (3-4 cycles a day), I did this 6 months ago. I checked the screw - it hasn't backed out at all. So there you have it.
Feel free to e-mail me if you have any problems.
glack
There are two ways to go about this:
1) Right way: If you have the old metal cylinder component still in the arm, you will notice that it is domed in such a fashion as to have been crushed/press-fit into the arm. This is what you're supposed to do. Take the door apart, unbolt regulator (which has arm attached) and slide it out the door. You will then need to put the metal cylinder into the newly cleared out hole (with plastic roller portion appropriately in place). Then find a way to press-fit it onto the arm. This is the most durable way. Once done, you simply put it back in the door and position the roller to slide into the rail by starting with it (window and thus rail) all the way done.
2) The second way to do this, which is a much more speedy method is to drill a small hole in through the backside of the metal cylinder component, place it into the hole of the window arm (with roller appropriately in place) and, using washers, screw in the right sized screw, using Loctite. Notice that the screw's function (with washers) is only to pin the arm over the metal cylinder such that the screw is not actually having any force applied in the vertical direction. The horizontal force applied by the arm serves only to back the screw out - something Loctite should have a decent grip on. This is the way I did it. I roll my window up and down constantly (3-4 cycles a day), I did this 6 months ago. I checked the screw - it hasn't backed out at all. So there you have it.
Feel free to e-mail me if you have any problems.
glack
#4
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I had this happen to me last year. I bought the part...then discovered that it needed to be pressed on...
OK. I ground out the old metal part so that it would fall out, and then simply inserted the new part. Placing the arm on the ground on top of an old t-shirt, I gently tapped it with a hammer until it stayed in place. Voila-
N!
'85 S2 5 Speed
OK. I ground out the old metal part so that it would fall out, and then simply inserted the new part. Placing the arm on the ground on top of an old t-shirt, I gently tapped it with a hammer until it stayed in place. Voila-
N!
'85 S2 5 Speed
#5
Thanks for the input guys. That helps out alot. Glack I am going to e-mail you for more info. Thanks.
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#6
We had a choice?
Rennlist Member
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Gosh guys, it's not that difficult. Cut the old rivit off, punch it out, put in the new rivit, add the roller, gently peen the end of the rivit. IMHO, if you cut corners on the little things (people do notice), what are you going to do on major project? The parts are only $6.00-$7.00. Do it right, and it will last as long as the original. IMHO of course.
Anthony Tate
79/928 Silver Metallic <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
Anthony Tate
79/928 Silver Metallic <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
#7
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva"> The parts are only $6.00-$7.00. QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Try ~$20 not including shipping that little bit, tax, etc. I bought mine from 928 Intl. too, you need to recheck your receipt.
"Peening" the end is more work that drilling a hole. The idea is to not have to take the regulator (with arm) out. Simply drill a hole and put in a screw.
glack
"Peening" the end is more work that drilling a hole. The idea is to not have to take the regulator (with arm) out. Simply drill a hole and put in a screw.
glack
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#8
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Window Guide Plastic Roller,
P/N 928.537.918.00, $1.35
Window Guide Rivet for Plastic Roller,
P/N 928.537.917.00, $2.84
Plus shipping, no tax.
It would obviously pay to buy some other items at the same time to help spread the shipping cost.
P/N 928.537.918.00, $1.35
Window Guide Rivet for Plastic Roller,
P/N 928.537.917.00, $2.84
Plus shipping, no tax.
It would obviously pay to buy some other items at the same time to help spread the shipping cost.
#9
We had a choice?
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Good Luck. And my apologies if I offended anyone.
Anthony Tate
79/928 Silver Metallic <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" />
Anthony Tate
79/928 Silver Metallic <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" />
#10
Went to "the " place in Reno today for porsche parts and service: Auto Haus. They pulled up the parts fiche and did not have any illustrations of the roller and rivet. They only showed the whole regulator on their illustration. I don't know if they were just trying to sell me more than I needed, to make money, or if it was an honest error. Any way I will be contacting 928 specialists for the needed parts. Thanks for the input from all.
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#11
Wow, I got ripped.
Big time.
"Window Roller Kit" from 928 Intl. was:
$20 for kit + $5.20 S&H + $1.55 Tax for a total of $26.75.
They didn't list any part numbers, just "Window Roller Kit" and it came with the roller and rivet....
Wow.
glack
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by WallyP:
<strong>Window Guide Plastic Roller,
P/N 928.537.918.00, $1.35
Window Guide Rivet for Plastic Roller,
P/N 928.537.917.00, $2.84
Plus shipping, no tax.
It would obviously pay to buy some other items at the same time to help spread the shipping cost.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">
Big time.
"Window Roller Kit" from 928 Intl. was:
$20 for kit + $5.20 S&H + $1.55 Tax for a total of $26.75.
They didn't list any part numbers, just "Window Roller Kit" and it came with the roller and rivet....
Wow.
glack
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by WallyP:
<strong>Window Guide Plastic Roller,
P/N 928.537.918.00, $1.35
Window Guide Rivet for Plastic Roller,
P/N 928.537.917.00, $2.84
Plus shipping, no tax.
It would obviously pay to buy some other items at the same time to help spread the shipping cost.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">