I keep thinking ABS issue, resulting in the vibration, with heavy braking. Since the experts aren't mentioning it, I guess I'm thinking in the wrong direction.

 

If you end up wanting to replace the guides due to warping.... you will need to heat up the calipers to get the button screws out. The caliper needs to be heated to just past "ouch, I cannot touch that with my bare hands" temperature before the screws will come out. Installation is the reverse of removal (of course); the calipers need to be hot.

 

I can't say the ABS is not involved in this. But I can say that I don't get any ABS warnings in the instrument cluster.

 

Symptoms wise, I'm thinking more of an operating ABS system being befuddled by a sticky caliper and under heavy braking, resulting in the "violent vibration" you have described.

 

And truck drivers get busted for 56 mph on I-5 all day long........

F****** CHP........

(sorry, Nicole........)


--Russ

 

Then, rebuilding the caliper should help fix it - no?

That might be true - but Anders drove at night....

 

 

OK, it looks like we're going to tackle this on Sunday.

Bill drove the car last weekend, and we found the jerky stopping usually becomes noticeable after a while of driving. It wasn't at maxumum strength when Bill drove it, but he could feel it - and when we got back, the right rear wheel seemed a hint warmer than the others.

I have the following parts ready:

Rear caliper rebuild kits
These H-shaped brackets mentioned by worf
Blue brake fluid
Silencers
Sensor wires

I think I even got the caliper bolts (have to check again).

What I still need are brake pads - I can't quite figure out what would be best. The factory pads I have are not worn out, yet, but they have been squeaking forever, and might be glazed. If I could replace them with a set that makes less dust, that would be great!

Some have recommended Mintex, but then I read those don't last very long.

What is the latest and greatest in rear brake pads for street use?