Big Dave

Andrew.....you may want to check how the links on your site are working.


By process of elimination, I assumed correctly that the missing page was here:

<a href="http://members.telocity.com/andrewolson/page3.html" target="_blank">Detroit Sharks in the Park</a>

Big Dave

Hmmm.....I hit the "refresh" button on my PC and now your page works correctly. <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />

Greggg

Hey Andrew, Nice pics. The link to "sharks in the park" is awesome! I didn't think I looked THAT old! Must be the resolution?!

I'm gonna do more testing this weekend on the BBS (bilge blowing shark) maybe try and get my flappy hooked up. Been thinking of other ideas to "supertune" this fish that don't involve money, just time.

Last note, anyone having marginal voltage? Check battery connection! Wire brush thourghly on all contacts and then use any type of anti-corr battery goop. My Voltage went from 11.5 to 13.0. I'll test to see if this helped 0-60 times. <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />

Max

Just one queston:

1: Does anyone know off the top of their head, what the CFM number would be for a 5.0 L 928 at WOT?

Looks like you've done an nice job Greg! I think your right on about air getting heated up passing over the rad. and trans cooler.

John Struthers

Gregg,
Yep, you can manually advance, up to a point.
I think Ed Ruiz posted approximate max advance and this will vary from MY to MY, and individual car quirks. The advance numbers are about the same on a Mustang GT or SVO.
Again any HP gains will probably not be "free" so much as "regained" Nice looking engine bay. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Greggg

Hey John! Thanks for the tip, I'll look it up in the old posts.

BTW; I understand your point about regaining HP, but actually 90-95% of cars manufactured are generic in there setup. I don't know if Porsche actually dyno each individual car but as you know alot of companies are setup to "supertune" your new car. Since the assembly process has a limited margin of accuracy, most car leave 5-20% of their HP potential untapped. If you watch some of the "stock" cars that are raced, their performance is unbeliveable! Most of the HP comes from many hours of tweeking the car, not aftermarket products. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

John Struthers

Greggg,
Can't swear to it but was under a performance post and - sorry, I asked the Question- I can't rememeber the title.
Somewhere in the 20's, degrees advance that is.
Once again I have to give you the lame
"Soldier on" line. The wires, plugs, cap/rotor,
Fresh fluids, new filters, rebuilt/new/matched injectors, everything snugged up -cable tensions-all around. Add a octane booster and fiddling with the timing will do a lot to forcing the 928 to perform at or better than advertised.

However, just that DIY list will set you back a pretty penny. Not counting injector matching you could bang up against the $500.00 mark if you used premium parts. God forbid a Porsche Mechanic should get involved somewhere in there
I noticed Porsche was offering a Super Tune on one of it's new models - saw this in a recent Road and Track - and would give less than 40hp for the low, low, price of almost $5000.00.
So, I do agree more HP is there than a lot of folks would admit. But, the cost!!!
In any case, when I see someone rowing upstream it's a real hoot that they do well at producing any additional HP. Your project was a clean installation as well which is always a plus.
But eventually the heads will have to yanked for porting and maybe someone will be cutting a more aggressive cams...$$$$$$$$$$$$

Dozman

John,

I just removed my injectors and sent them off to be serviced and matched. It cost me roughly $150.00 with next day air each way. I went thru Cruzin Performance, Rich (the owner) did an outstanding job on my injectors.

On everything else I would have to agree with you on.

John D.

Greggg

Quick update; after adjusting your throttle cables,check them again when engine is hot. Mine and Big Daves needed a little readjustment which we are guessing caused our earlier idle problems. More to follow...

Air tubes were fabricated today, sorry I went ahead w/o you Andrew. Looks OK, don't know if they will work well. I'll test this weekend w/ update. Andrew can you tell me how to post a picture? thanks, Gregg
<img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />

AO

Greg-

You need to post them on a website somewhere and then link to it. If you're a member of RennList (and you should be if you're not), then you can post them on your web space there and then link to them. I can show how if we get together at my place or your place. Very looking forward to seeing the most recent mods!

goodspeed928

Greggg,
ME TOO, At least 1/2" play in my
throtte cable, but!!!
I pulled lock pin, then pulled off the
ball, butt could not turn the ends?

greg <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

Greggg

Hey Greg! BTDT (been there done that), hold the cable end with a piar of vice grips, use lots of WD40 on threads, losen lock nut, then losen then tighten-back and forth- the socket. Be careful not to bend cable attachment point. If this fails try adjusting the rod going under the manifold. Be careful here, the rod may pop off the throttle body which will require some patience to reattach.

Afterthought, recheck tension on throttle body with engine hot. <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />

goodspeed928

Thanks,
Will do,
The car is a 86, different
throtte then 87.

Greg

John Struthers

Greggg,
FWIW, about the new tubes...
Been a lot of talk over the last year or so on Renn. .
What I am wondering about is that tapered transition section behind the cross fender brace.
At first I thought that it was for simplifing the connection when you remove /install the air box.
Someone else, probably, mentioned this but more than likely the tapered section is for the Venturi effect to speed up airflow. I am also sure that at some point a much larger/more volume tube system could match and even surpass the efficiency of the smaller venturi equipped tube.
However, more than likely, a smaller system with venturi than your new straight tubes would probably be more efficient than either stock or the new mega tubes. I'm no expert on the speed vs volume physics but air speed seems to indicate a quicker denser charge than a straight volume increase. This venturi , again no expert would seem to be more effective at supplying low end oomph !
just a thought.
Have fun!
John S. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Greggg

Hey John, yeah I thought about that also. It seems the manufacture is too purposful in these cars. I'm sure the tube design had more to do with cam profile and intake structure than actual assembly. I haven't noticed any negitive low end response with the blowers. I'm waiting to change out my tranny fluid and adjust the shift firmness, then I'll test the Ohms on the spark plug wires and coils. I don't want to replace anything that is working well. After I buy a third car, the intake is coming off for a flappy fix.

Quick cleanup I did that helped. Removed MAF sensor; removed lower screen. Cleaned rubber tube and throttle plate as much as possible. I also noticed the PO had the throttle body cable miss routed; rubbing on the metal bracket that holds some tubing away from cable. <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />