Shift coupler rebuild
01-05-2008, 06:02 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Location: In the boatyard installing the mast and engine, we don't need a crane, we harness the mesquito's! Yeah!
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Shift coupler rebuild
My shift was turning into a search and destroy mission.
At 30 years old she needed a bit of tightening up.
Everyone knows the for and aft cure - the $45 shift cup...
Side to side - $10 - 1 hour.
Push your coupler rubber cover aft
Loosen the forward shift tube at the coupler - 2 x 14 mm wrenchs
Push the coupling back (2nd gear shift)
Hold the coupler back while someone shifts into 3rd - this removed the tube.
Heat the coupling - the set screw and the coupling were installed with loctite!
Once heated, the set screw comes out easy - the coupling slides right off!
There is a set screw - mine was on the port side - I used a 4mm bit with a 1/4" ratchet. I bought a cheap bit set at harbour frieght - less then $10.
I also bought a black pistol grip butane torch - this is the big trick.
I used a vise and pressed the pin out with a 4mm deep socket on one side, and a 15mm deep socket on the other. Installed the new plastic inserts, and pressed the pin back in.
Put the coupler back on, use green loctite this time - install the set screw, put the gear shift in 4th and tighten the tube up. The side to side is adjustable so check it out and remember - if you don't like it, it only takes a couple minutes to change.
Happy hunting - oops - I meant - happy shifting.
At 30 years old she needed a bit of tightening up.
Everyone knows the for and aft cure - the $45 shift cup...
Side to side - $10 - 1 hour.
Push your coupler rubber cover aft
Loosen the forward shift tube at the coupler - 2 x 14 mm wrenchs
Push the coupling back (2nd gear shift)
Hold the coupler back while someone shifts into 3rd - this removed the tube.
Heat the coupling - the set screw and the coupling were installed with loctite!
Once heated, the set screw comes out easy - the coupling slides right off!
There is a set screw - mine was on the port side - I used a 4mm bit with a 1/4" ratchet. I bought a cheap bit set at harbour frieght - less then $10.
I also bought a black pistol grip butane torch - this is the big trick.
I used a vise and pressed the pin out with a 4mm deep socket on one side, and a 15mm deep socket on the other. Installed the new plastic inserts, and pressed the pin back in.
Put the coupler back on, use green loctite this time - install the set screw, put the gear shift in 4th and tighten the tube up. The side to side is adjustable so check it out and remember - if you don't like it, it only takes a couple minutes to change.
Happy hunting - oops - I meant - happy shifting.
01-05-2008, 08:24 PM
#2
Team Owner
if your talking about the front shift cup, I would recommend the part that Carl is selling, 928 Motorsports, it is all metal and will last the life of the car, and it will never come off once it has been connected properly, the reason for this upgrade is the nylon insert will start to soften when the driveline gets hot and sometimes will allow the front shift rod to pop off the ball.
This part is a lot easier to install with the TT removed.
The green locktite is for keeps,its like super glue. So using it on the allen setscrew isnt a good idea if thats what your referring to.
I would recommend blue it can be removed. Either way heat may be necessary to remove/loosen the Loctite, just more heat with the green stuff
Usually the shifter is positioned in the neutral setting with the trans in neutral as well , If the shifter isnt postioned correctly then you may have a case of the shifter not being able to put the trans into gear fully and thus it may pop out of gear.
The handheld butane torch sounds like a nice addition to the tool box, especially in a confined space
This part is a lot easier to install with the TT removed.
The green locktite is for keeps,its like super glue. So using it on the allen setscrew isnt a good idea if thats what your referring to.
I would recommend blue it can be removed. Either way heat may be necessary to remove/loosen the Loctite, just more heat with the green stuff
Usually the shifter is positioned in the neutral setting with the trans in neutral as well , If the shifter isnt postioned correctly then you may have a case of the shifter not being able to put the trans into gear fully and thus it may pop out of gear.
The handheld butane torch sounds like a nice addition to the tool box, especially in a confined space
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 01-06-2008 at 01:48 AM.
01-05-2008, 10:28 PM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Do you guys think the replacement bushings for the shift coupler are good enough?
I made some Delrin ones that might be more durable but if the OEM replacements are good enough then I won't bother to offer mine. The OEMs are certainly cheap and mine would be much more expensive. Mine would have the same oval shape to allow some fore-aft movement but be slightly tighter. I won't be offended if you tell me to spend my time elsewhere
I made some Delrin ones that might be more durable but if the OEM replacements are good enough then I won't bother to offer mine. The OEMs are certainly cheap and mine would be much more expensive. Mine would have the same oval shape to allow some fore-aft movement but be slightly tighter. I won't be offended if you tell me to spend my time elsewhere
01-06-2008, 10:32 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
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Join Date: Dec 2005
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I wish I would have known of the front replacement last month
- I had the same problem a couple years ago with my 86.5, so when the 78 needed replacing I didn't bother to do a search - I just ordered the factory part and did the job.
The short write up was for the rear, and BTW - I started to use green loctite years ago with the Harley clutch adjustment screw. It doesn't "break loose" like the blue, it is more of a frictional bonding. It is great for places that the screw will get turned again and again. Like the valve adjustment screws on the 911. It was designed for vibrational purposes and adjustable screws. A "small" amount of heat is all that is needed for easy removal and it cleans off with alcohol or a wire brush. I guess you get used to certain products and if it wasn't for personal choices we would all have to eat wheaties
Heat is the trick though - no matter which loctite you use. We used to pour boiling water over the red loctite used in ships rigging systems to loosen.
I use this - I'm sure you can find one for less at NAPA or Sears.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&Item_id=68311
- I had the same problem a couple years ago with my 86.5, so when the 78 needed replacing I didn't bother to do a search - I just ordered the factory part and did the job.The short write up was for the rear, and BTW - I started to use green loctite years ago with the Harley clutch adjustment screw. It doesn't "break loose" like the blue, it is more of a frictional bonding. It is great for places that the screw will get turned again and again. Like the valve adjustment screws on the 911. It was designed for vibrational purposes and adjustable screws. A "small" amount of heat is all that is needed for easy removal and it cleans off with alcohol or a wire brush. I guess you get used to certain products and if it wasn't for personal choices we would all have to eat wheaties
Heat is the trick though - no matter which loctite you use. We used to pour boiling water over the red loctite used in ships rigging systems to loosen.
I use this - I'm sure you can find one for less at NAPA or Sears.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....&Item_id=68311
01-06-2008, 10:37 AM
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: In the boatyard installing the mast and engine, we don't need a crane, we harness the mesquito's! Yeah!
Posts: 1,822
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Do you guys think the replacement bushings for the shift coupler are good enough?
I made some Delrin ones that might be more durable but if the OEM replacements are good enough then I won't bother to offer mine. The OEMs are certainly cheap and mine would be much more expensive. Mine would have the same oval shape to allow some fore-aft movement but be slightly tighter. I won't be offended if you tell me to spend my time elsewhere
I made some Delrin ones that might be more durable but if the OEM replacements are good enough then I won't bother to offer mine. The OEMs are certainly cheap and mine would be much more expensive. Mine would have the same oval shape to allow some fore-aft movement but be slightly tighter. I won't be offended if you tell me to spend my time elsewhere
01-06-2008, 10:58 AM
#6
Team Owner
thats a cool torch, considering it for my tool box, thanks for the the link
01-06-2008, 11:15 PM
#7
Drifting
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After 3 years of driving my 5 speed and thinking the shifting is just sloppy (and that's the way it is), I cannot recommend more highly to do the rear coupler/Carl's front ball cup/new short shifter.
There is no down side to any of it. Very positive shifting and feels like a new car.
p.s. none of my old parts were bad either.
There is no down side to any of it. Very positive shifting and feels like a new car.
p.s. none of my old parts were bad either.
