Shocks
08-29-2002, 11:20 PM
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Shocks
I have my rear shocks off My Dear Ole Shark. I just can't seem to get the threaded sleeve for the adjusting nut off of the shock. Whats the best method to this little trick?
Trying to get all my suspension woes out of the way prior to sending the Ole Lady for her complete paint job. This way, when I get her back I can send her to get an alignment and a new set of tires.
TIA
John D.
Trying to get all my suspension woes out of the way prior to sending the Ole Lady for her complete paint job. This way, when I get her back I can send her to get an alignment and a new set of tires.
TIA
John D.
08-30-2002, 01:10 AM
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John:
When I had mine done, they had to order a new adjuster nut since they said it was "rusted and corroded in place". Since the shop sucked and took 5 days to do the rear-shocks-only job, I have no idea how hard they tried to use the nuts that were already there. Even the Mercedes loaner-car I got from them was a piece of junk.
When I had mine done, they had to order a new adjuster nut since they said it was "rusted and corroded in place". Since the shop sucked and took 5 days to do the rear-shocks-only job, I have no idea how hard they tried to use the nuts that were already there. Even the Mercedes loaner-car I got from them was a piece of junk.
08-30-2002, 02:02 AM
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[quote]Originally posted by Dozman:
<strong>I have my rear shocks off My Dear Ole Shark. I just can't seem to get the threaded sleeve for the adjusting nut off of the shock. Whats the best method to this little trick?
</strong><hr></blockquote>
John:
I did the adjustments on the car to restore ride height, and found that the only way I could turn the nut was after I put spring compressors on to unload the tension on the nut. After that, all that cosmoline and undercoating had to be washed off with a little paint thinner and a stiff brush. Only after all that was done could I get any serious budge on the adjusters, even with the long-handled spanner. Banged on the handle a good bit with the shot-filled rubber mallet before it decided to move any.
Having the assembly out on the floor is a blessing and a curse. It's a lot easier to clean all the accumulated stuff out of the thread area, way easier to get penetrating fluid down into the threads and all, and a snap to get the spring compressors all set up and loaded. It will be a chore wrestling with the assembly when you need to turn the nut, though, without the shock bolted to the lower arm. I guess if you clamped the bottom eye in a good vise it would be OK.
If your adjusting nut is aluminum like mine, and you live in a salted-road area like I don't, the aluminum may be one with the steel threads on the shock. You may end up replacing the adjusting nuts with new, just to keep folks from seeing where you beat the hell out of them with the sledge-hammer and the chisel to break them loose.
Good luck with your project!
<img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />
<strong>I have my rear shocks off My Dear Ole Shark. I just can't seem to get the threaded sleeve for the adjusting nut off of the shock. Whats the best method to this little trick?
</strong><hr></blockquote>
John:
I did the adjustments on the car to restore ride height, and found that the only way I could turn the nut was after I put spring compressors on to unload the tension on the nut. After that, all that cosmoline and undercoating had to be washed off with a little paint thinner and a stiff brush. Only after all that was done could I get any serious budge on the adjusters, even with the long-handled spanner. Banged on the handle a good bit with the shot-filled rubber mallet before it decided to move any.
Having the assembly out on the floor is a blessing and a curse. It's a lot easier to clean all the accumulated stuff out of the thread area, way easier to get penetrating fluid down into the threads and all, and a snap to get the spring compressors all set up and loaded. It will be a chore wrestling with the assembly when you need to turn the nut, though, without the shock bolted to the lower arm. I guess if you clamped the bottom eye in a good vise it would be OK.
If your adjusting nut is aluminum like mine, and you live in a salted-road area like I don't, the aluminum may be one with the steel threads on the shock. You may end up replacing the adjusting nuts with new, just to keep folks from seeing where you beat the hell out of them with the sledge-hammer and the chisel to break them loose.
Good luck with your project!
<img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />
08-30-2002, 09:56 AM
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I appreciate the replies dr BOB and Big Dave. I was just trying to finish the shocks today to have the car for Pontiac's Arts Beats and Eats festival. I guess I will order new.
I do have an awesome cleaner that works great to remove lets say 'Road Grime'. I had cleaned my undercarriage at a power wash. Took a matt to kneel on (Didn't feel like undercoating my knees), a floor jack, bug sprayer, and cleaner. Half hour later I could see the threads on the threaded sleeve, etc.
I think I have committed Dave and Jeanie's number to memory.
Dave, Wonder what shop your talking about HMMM?
Should we just say, MR. Hack works there. Oh by the way, The body shop I am gonna get my shark painted at in Royal Oak, said the same things we did about MR. Hacks repair shop.
John D.
I do have an awesome cleaner that works great to remove lets say 'Road Grime'. I had cleaned my undercarriage at a power wash. Took a matt to kneel on (Didn't feel like undercoating my knees), a floor jack, bug sprayer, and cleaner. Half hour later I could see the threads on the threaded sleeve, etc.
I think I have committed Dave and Jeanie's number to memory.
Dave, Wonder what shop your talking about HMMM?
Should we just say, MR. Hack works there. Oh by the way, The body shop I am gonna get my shark painted at in Royal Oak, said the same things we did about MR. Hacks repair shop.
John D.
08-30-2002, 12:24 PM
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It's called Foamy Brite (max foaming Condenser coil cleaner, non-acidic, Yes! Bio-Degradeable) made by Nu Calgon. It is safe for aluminium, copper, brass, and metals.
I have sprayed this on with a dilution of 5 to 1 ratio in a pump bug sprayer. Wait 1-10 minutes depends on the thickness and type of grime. Wash off with a hose. I used the carwash the first time, due to the amount of crude that was built up (try to ensure the spray is soft enough not to splash grime onto the paint). If there is alot of grime, I suggest doing this once at the car wash to get rid of most of the grime. Then once at the house to get the the undercarriage sparkling clean.
I know the next queestion, what about the under coating coming off? As of right now, I have not had a problem with the under coating coming off of the underside of the floor pans and etc.... I have paid attention to this and see no evidence of this as of yet. This was one of my concernes.
John D.
I have sprayed this on with a dilution of 5 to 1 ratio in a pump bug sprayer. Wait 1-10 minutes depends on the thickness and type of grime. Wash off with a hose. I used the carwash the first time, due to the amount of crude that was built up (try to ensure the spray is soft enough not to splash grime onto the paint). If there is alot of grime, I suggest doing this once at the car wash to get rid of most of the grime. Then once at the house to get the the undercarriage sparkling clean.
I know the next queestion, what about the under coating coming off? As of right now, I have not had a problem with the under coating coming off of the underside of the floor pans and etc.... I have paid attention to this and see no evidence of this as of yet. This was one of my concernes.
John D.