bad S4

It is 1500 miles since the new belt was installed.I just ordered the T- belt tension tool and I plan to adjust the belt tension myself.
Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks
Bad S4
87 S4
Blk/Blk
5-Speed
28K Miles

Steve J.

The aftermarket tension tool comes with excellent clear instructions for 16V and 32V engines. Easy to use and mighty satisfying! It was tricky getting the fans out the first time.

Thom1

Hi BadS4,

It is pretty easy with the Kempf tool. I don’t remove a lot of the stuff that some people specify, like hoses. Just pull the right front timing belt cover (and distributor). If you cannot swing the tool in that space on yours, remove more stuff.

See detailed procedure links below:
Detailed Procedure & Photo Links:
Greg Nichols’ page has troubleshooting procedures for the timing belt light and more at:
<a href="http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tips.htm" target="_blank">http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tips.htm</a>
Tony’s page has pictures and procedures:
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/index.htm" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/index.htm</a>
John Pirtle’s site goes into great detail, with awesome pictures:
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html</a>
Link to Adobe Acrobat Reader document that has numerous service procedures. Download or open it here:
<a href="http://www.jageng.com/sharkbit_2.htm" target="_blank">http://www.jageng.com/sharkbit_2.htm</a>
Another site with written procedures:
<a href="http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/" target="_blank">http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/</a>
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

bad S4

Thanks Gents

LarryM

Yes, do it your self. I bought a 17mm wrench and cut it down to about 4.5 inches so I could loosen the lock bolt. Here's my 10.5 years of experience on belts. When I replace the belt I tighten it to .2 below the max number listed. In about 1000 to 2000 miles I have to retighten. Here's the time saver. On my past 3 928's, when the "tighten belt" light comes on I tighten the bolt almost a half turn. Then in 13 to 15 thousand miles the light comes on again. I've noticed a perfect half turn will go for about 17k miles. You ONLY do this at 1K then at 15k,, the Next time you change it!!! I always wanted to ask if anybody else does the same thing? My belt change intervals are always near 35k miles. That's because I like working on it, friends come over to see, or I'll teach someone else to do their own. 14 year old Nephew's are great for reaching that back block drain bolt. They think it's fun.

WallyP

A warning here - a belt tension light MAY indicate a loose belt, which must be taken care of posthaste. In this case, an unmeasured half-turn on the adjustment screw MIGHT get you close enough.

More often, a belt tension warning light is a bad electrical connection on the sensing wire. In this case, tightening the belt is the wrong thing to do. We (and the other vendors and shops) have all seen damaged idlers and sprockets from over-tightened belts, where a tech just tightens without checking the tension.

Especially on the 32-valve engines, it is NOT a good thing to tighten the belt without checking the tension. While your mileage-based system will help keep the tension within limits, it is not a good idea for most people.

Jay's gauge is available from us or from the other vendors. it is a very reasonably priced essential tool, and is easy to use. I would strongly recommend that any reasonably competent DIY owner should have one, and should check the belt tension periodically.

Max

Wally you can correct me if I am wrong on this, but the Belt Tension light will also some times go on if the oil in the Belt Tensioner has leaked out.

bad S4

Thanks to all who have responded.
T-Belt tension adjustment went well.
The worst part was dancing with the radiator shroud for approx.30 minutes.I don't get the need to cut down a 17mm wrench handle to fit onto
the tensioner lock nut.
Thanks again

Bad S4

Drewster67

I recently went throught the front end of my shark. I replaced all the rollers, tension boot cap and t-belt. I left the waterpump in, and knock on wood - it still works fine with the new tension. Regarding the T-Belt tension tool. Although it is a needed tool I beleive that the price for the tool is a little large. In my research I found out there is more than one way to adjust the belt without the reccomended tool. I'm not saying that this a replcement for the tool but an inexspensive way to gain the same results.

1. Construct a measuring tool using plexiglass. According to specs. (If your interested, I can forward you the directions on how to fabricate - pulled from a 928 sight on the web).

2. Audio - This is the format I used. I downloaded the audio sound (again from a 928 website) which will play back the tension sound on the top and bottom of the t-belt. Like a bass guitar thumping a string. I was skeptic at first, but .......my adjustment was almost dead on. If you have a good ear and would like to save some cash - This may be for you.

Again I would like to say that these measures are not for everyone. If your trying to cut cost (like I needed to) these ideas may help. But, if all else fails, after adjustment - stop by your favorite tech and have him/her measure the tension.

Not reccomended for everyone - As you know, the belt covers are somewhat difficult to remove. I actually have removed the left cover and it's still off because I'm **** about my tension. I made sure that there is nothing dangling to get caught - all other covers in place. It's easier to verify the status and tension of the belt. At least for me it is being that I drive shark like she was meant to be driven. On the track and on the streets. <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" /> <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />