No Oil Pressure - Help Please?
#32
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Since the pan is back off, I would put on a later tube and a new seal. Maybe part of the rubber pickup is torn causing a lack of pressure?
#33
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Roger,
I agree with Heinrich, a sheared woodruf key is very unlikely. I looked at the WSM Volume page 17-2 and the only thing that seals the lower portion of the snorkel is the rubber sleeve (#28 in the picture). did he check this piece and is it still OK? I would think that the upper portion of the sleeve that sits on the snorkel, is not submerged in oil. If they use a clamp like it's pictured in the WSM it could be that there is not enough clamping action left to give it a good seal. I would replace the rubber sleeve and the upper snorkel seal. Just because he checked it and old rubber seals are no good after they have been taken off.
I agree with Heinrich, a sheared woodruf key is very unlikely. I looked at the WSM Volume page 17-2 and the only thing that seals the lower portion of the snorkel is the rubber sleeve (#28 in the picture). did he check this piece and is it still OK? I would think that the upper portion of the sleeve that sits on the snorkel, is not submerged in oil. If they use a clamp like it's pictured in the WSM it could be that there is not enough clamping action left to give it a good seal. I would replace the rubber sleeve and the upper snorkel seal. Just because he checked it and old rubber seals are no good after they have been taken off.
#34
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other thoughts? pick up tube or oil pump entry is blocked? Maybe left some cleaning cloth or other large debris in the pan?
This is weird man!! As I believe you say in the colonies?![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
Marton
This is weird man!! As I believe you say in the colonies?
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Marton
#35
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I have seen this once when the oil pan was off for an extended amount of time over a couple of weeks and the oil pump drained completely and lost prime. We tried everything but could not get the unit to prime on its own and no issues were fond anywhere. STP was used on the pump gears and then the pump was turned with a drill and once it primed there were no issues after that. I would pull the t belt and use an electric high speed drill to turn the oil pump first.
#36
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Well if the inspection indicates that all of the seals are in the correct places then its likley that the pump has lost its prime.
Since the oil is forced thru the girdle this is also a part that must be filled before oil pressure will register.
So you can try the turn the pump with the drill after removing the belt , thats what we did at the shop on a fresh build but since the engine is in the car an easier way to prime the pump would be to remove the top oil cooler line from the radiator and begin filling the oil into the line, also the sump must be full and the spark plugs removed and the oil filter filled with oil ,as you fill this line have a helper turn the engine couterclockwise this will turn the oil pump in reverse direction and begin back filling the oil passages and the girdle and the pickup, I would guess that you will need to put about 1 quart into the oil line, so leave the sump a quart low. this should get the oil system primed.
. After you do this you can turn the engine over with the key leave the plugs out so it spins faster. You wont damage the timing belt tensioner or belt run by turning the belt backwards with the plugs out and with a socket /ratchet.
If this doesnt work then you should remove the oil pump and inspect it , and blow out the lines with compressed air and refit the pump with STP in the gears. I guess that an outside possibility is that the oil pump has sheared its woodruff key and the pulley is turning on the shaft but that is very unlikley.
Just a thought but has the belt been checked to see if it is turning with the engine?
Since the oil is forced thru the girdle this is also a part that must be filled before oil pressure will register.
So you can try the turn the pump with the drill after removing the belt , thats what we did at the shop on a fresh build but since the engine is in the car an easier way to prime the pump would be to remove the top oil cooler line from the radiator and begin filling the oil into the line, also the sump must be full and the spark plugs removed and the oil filter filled with oil ,as you fill this line have a helper turn the engine couterclockwise this will turn the oil pump in reverse direction and begin back filling the oil passages and the girdle and the pickup, I would guess that you will need to put about 1 quart into the oil line, so leave the sump a quart low. this should get the oil system primed.
. After you do this you can turn the engine over with the key leave the plugs out so it spins faster. You wont damage the timing belt tensioner or belt run by turning the belt backwards with the plugs out and with a socket /ratchet.
If this doesnt work then you should remove the oil pump and inspect it , and blow out the lines with compressed air and refit the pump with STP in the gears. I guess that an outside possibility is that the oil pump has sheared its woodruff key and the pulley is turning on the shaft but that is very unlikley.
Just a thought but has the belt been checked to see if it is turning with the engine?
#37
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Heinrich brought up one of my first thoughts here-bearings. Considering the pan is off in all of this, a parallel project with fixing the oil pressure issue is popping the caps off and inspecting bearings for wear. It would not take long at all to cause damage here...
#38
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Roger,
I had enough time on the airplane today to think about this issue![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
What about if he didn't push the lower rubber sleeve all the way on the snorkel. Especially with the spring pushing against it (WSM Volume 1, page 17-2). There would be NO cap between the sleeve and the bottom of the oil pan. This would easily explain why there was no oil flow. He might have created a PERFECT seal against the bottom of the pan.
He should measure the depth of the oil pan and compare it to the snorkel assembly. This would also explain why the oil fliter is still bone dry and why overfilling did not help at all!
Keep me updated my friend!!!
I had enough time on the airplane today to think about this issue
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
What about if he didn't push the lower rubber sleeve all the way on the snorkel. Especially with the spring pushing against it (WSM Volume 1, page 17-2). There would be NO cap between the sleeve and the bottom of the oil pan. This would easily explain why there was no oil flow. He might have created a PERFECT seal against the bottom of the pan.
He should measure the depth of the oil pan and compare it to the snorkel assembly. This would also explain why the oil fliter is still bone dry and why overfilling did not help at all!
Keep me updated my friend!!!
#39
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Roger,
I had enough time on the airplane today to think about this issue![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
What about if he didn't push the lower rubber sleeve all the way on the snorkel. Especially with the spring pushing against it (WSM Volume 1, page 17-2). There would be NO cap between the sleeve and the bottom of the oil pan. This would easily explain why there was no oil flow. He might have created a PERFECT seal against the bottom of the pan.
He should measure the depth of the oil pan and compare it to the snorkel assembly. This would also explain why the oil fliter is still bone dry and why overfilling did not help at all!
Keep me updated my friend!!!
I had enough time on the airplane today to think about this issue
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
What about if he didn't push the lower rubber sleeve all the way on the snorkel. Especially with the spring pushing against it (WSM Volume 1, page 17-2). There would be NO cap between the sleeve and the bottom of the oil pan. This would easily explain why there was no oil flow. He might have created a PERFECT seal against the bottom of the pan.
He should measure the depth of the oil pan and compare it to the snorkel assembly. This would also explain why the oil fliter is still bone dry and why overfilling did not help at all!
Keep me updated my friend!!!
#40
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Somebody posted earlier to upgrade to the new snorkel with the screen. My understanding is that the old style is a rubber sleeve without a screen. Somebody has some pictures???
As I said I had enough time to think, total flying time from Phoenix to Munich is about 12 hours...
As I said I had enough time to think, total flying time from Phoenix to Munich is about 12 hours...
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#43
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The picture of the update can be found at the following link.
http://s103.photobucket.com/albums/m...pickuptube.jpg
Before removing/replacing things, I would double check the prime between the pump and the filter. This happens more often to the 944 engine. IIRC the solution is to fill the circuit between the filter and pump with oil. May want to seach the 944 forum on this one.
Dennis
http://s103.photobucket.com/albums/m...pickuptube.jpg
Before removing/replacing things, I would double check the prime between the pump and the filter. This happens more often to the 944 engine. IIRC the solution is to fill the circuit between the filter and pump with oil. May want to seach the 944 forum on this one.
Dennis
#44
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Dennis,
Thanks and I will check out the priming issue as well.
Best,
Roger
Thanks and I will check out the priming issue as well.
Best,
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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#45
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Well, if the overfill didn't work, try the drill on the pump shaft after taking off the TB. Now that he's got the pan off, inspect the heck out of everything, and also check the valve that Shocki mentioned. Hope that takes care of it.