hacker-pschorr

#1 sign your car does not like them is a mis at idle. If they get too fouled, it can cause issues at high RPM's. I have two sets on the work bench (two different heat ranges). Next dyno day I'm going to play with them.

Sorry, that made me chuckle. Thinking about emissions or low speed driving as my car is shooting a cone shapped, red afterburner style flame out the tailpipe at 5,500rpm.
Good to know - what happened?

PorKen

I was talking about the two main-stage EZF/K amps. (Hüco ignition amps)

I'm not sure if the earlier 16V box has any trouble with non-resistor plugs.

PorKen

The Bosch sensors are supposed to be good. The 928 ones keep the connector out of the muck.

I was only able to use the front plug with the stock intake. You'll need S4 valley plug(s). (More info.)

hacker-pschorr

Thanks Porken, that answeres my question as to wheare I can install a knock sensor. Looks like there isn't any room under there for one in the middle.

I wonder if there is enough room under the intake manifold on a 16 valve to raise that piece up 1/4 inch to make room for the knock sensor?

Glen McCartney

Ken, Did anyone ever get a part number for those plugs that are threaded to accept the knock sensors?

Also, when adding knock sensor to an 85-86, which year knock sensor should one use, there are different part numbers for 87-90 and 91-95, or maybe it doesn't matter.

I am eventually going to boost the beast, so just getting ready and see if I can find or have to make a couple of the plugs for the valley.

John Veninger

The difference in the 87-90 and 91-95 knock sensors is the plating on the connector.

WKD 496 921 for 1991 states:

Knock sensor
To ensure a corrosion-proof contact between the knock sensors and the cable harness, the
connector plugs are being gold-plated . Due to the risk of contact corrosion, knock sensors with goldplated
plug connectors must not be installed together with the old cable harnerss connectors .

Vlocity

So what is the difference between these and the bosch sensors that J & S have available ?

Would the J & S then be compatable with the Sharktuner to get a knock count on the 85-86 MY ?

I hate to ask again...but is the LM- 1 all thats needed to sharktune ( I was considering the next level that will also track RPM)

Thanks and I apologize for the Sophmoric questions.

Ken

Louie928

Ken,
AFAIK, the only difference between the knock sensors J&S sells and the 928 is that the 928 has the plug on a pigtail where the J&S has the plug right at the sensor. I think the guts of the sensor is the same.

The only "extra" item you should need before Sharktuning is a WB O2 unit that also outputs a simulated NB signal. The LM-1, LC-1, Techedge, and others will do that. You don't need a simulated NB signal if you install another O2 sensor bung for the WB and leave your stock NB as is. Don't attempt to Sharktune with a WB in the end of the tailpipe. There is too much lag in the reading at lower RPMs with the sensor at the tailpipe.

PorKen

The knock sensor is 12mm high, then the bolt head. IIRC, there's <5mm clearance under the J-bend. Thin bolt head, and ½" phenolic head spacers?

I reckon the front one is probably good enough. It's right next to the webbing connecting the two banks?

Not that I know of.

Hacker-Pschorr

On the OB's there is at least that much of a gap between the TB and the plenum.

This could work. I'm yaking everything off for a EuroS intake upgrade - good time to add the knock sensor. Need to re-read all of those posts to catch up on that technology

Glen McCartney

Thanks John, Ken and Louie. Now who has a S4 block that had TBF that wants to remove the plugs and sell them???

John Veninger

I might.
Are they priced per oz.

Glen McCartney

Would they be gold or gold plated? Let me know.

PorKen

Here's my -s e c r e t- spot for the stock O2 sensor, when using a wideband...

I didn't have time to do back to back runs of my balance pipe mod, yet, but it didn't lose power or torque, and I think it's quieter than a stock X. The O2 sensor keeps nice and warm at idle there too.

Pizza

Thanks Porken

On my car the plug closest to the firewall (circled in red) is the only one with threads in it. The other 2 have allen sockets. Does the knock sensor attach directly to the plug with the threads in it? Can I move the threaded plug to the middle hole (circled in yellow)?