Idle Stabalizer/Solenoid Poll??
10-15-2002, 06:40 PM
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Idle Stabalizer/Solenoid Poll??
...was talking to dave Roberts & he said he's heard of it lasting 2 days to 2 years! any replies appreciated! thanks
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Last edited by gretzky99; 07-21-2006 at 07:56 AM.
10-16-2002, 04:04 AM
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you really should use carb cleaner instead. WD will leave a residue that will just collect more crap. carb(/throttle body) cleaner will evaporate after it's done it's work.
spraying it down the hose is a crap-shoot at best. the right way to clean it is to remove it and hose it out a couple times.
i just ordered all the parts to do my intake, including knock sensors and a new ISV. i'm going to reroute the hoses (the J hose can prob'ly just be turned around) and mount the ISV under the airbox with the hoses running behind the TB/MAF, instead of in front of it (under the intake). it just bypasses air, it doesn't matter where it is. prob'ly make a bracket for it...
spraying it down the hose is a crap-shoot at best. the right way to clean it is to remove it and hose it out a couple times.
i just ordered all the parts to do my intake, including knock sensors and a new ISV. i'm going to reroute the hoses (the J hose can prob'ly just be turned around) and mount the ISV under the airbox with the hoses running behind the TB/MAF, instead of in front of it (under the intake). it just bypasses air, it doesn't matter where it is. prob'ly make a bracket for it...
10-18-2002, 05:06 AM
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yes i know where it is. re-read what i said, i'm routing it out from under the intake. put it under the airbox instead...
10-18-2002, 11:32 AM
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Mine still lasts...(knock on wood).
I did it somewhere in February. The WD40 didn't do the job efficiënt enough, so I used (maby against better judgement)sewing machine oil (don't know the right translation; the very thin oil anyway). I thought if it's a temporary measure, what the heck. But it worked like a charm. The motor spins like a....yes, a sewing machine! Someone prompted to use something with graphite, which has a longer lasting effect. I don't know. All I can tell you is that if it takes about half an hour evry lets say 10 months, I really am not going to take the whole thing apart.
I did it somewhere in February. The WD40 didn't do the job efficiënt enough, so I used (maby against better judgement)sewing machine oil (don't know the right translation; the very thin oil anyway). I thought if it's a temporary measure, what the heck. But it worked like a charm. The motor spins like a....yes, a sewing machine! Someone prompted to use something with graphite, which has a longer lasting effect. I don't know. All I can tell you is that if it takes about half an hour evry lets say 10 months, I really am not going to take the whole thing apart.
10-18-2002, 12:35 PM
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Wd40 or carb cleaner did not work for me so it sitting in my parts washer oh lets see its beeen there 2 days now guess its time to go check on it.
Thurston. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Thurston. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
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10-19-2002, 04:10 AM
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from two sources:
The idle stabilizer valve is a rotary valve that allows air to bypass the throttle valve and raise or lower the idle speed of the engine. See the photo below for location details.
The idle speed is raised during the warm up period of the engine and the idle speed is maintained depending on changes in load. Increased load from the alternator when the lights are turned on, and increased load from the A/C compressor cycling will change the amount the idle stabilizer valve is opened. The rotary valve is cycled with a DC voltage which will cause the motor armature to work against a return spring. The duty cycle of this DC voltage determines the position of the rotary valve and the amount of the opening to allow air to pass through.
The idle stabilizer valve can also stick from oil/crud built up inside and this can cause idle problems. Removing the ISV and cleaning it with carb cleaner may help.
===========
The "idle stabilizer" is a variable valve that controls the air flow into the engine at idle. Most are made by Bosch and are "torque motors" - what looks like an electric motor, but with the armature constrained by a clock spring so it can only rotate about 1/4 rev. It is attached to a rotary valve that controls the air flow. More current means more rotation, hence more air flow and the idle speeds up. Problem is the clearance in the valve is very small and small dirt particles can cause friction. The computer says "speed up" and applies more current, but the motor sticks. Engine slows down more, more current is applied and suddenly it breaks loose, opens too far, computer reduces current, valve sticks open, well you get the picture. Result: idle surge, sometimes enough to stall, always annoying. Others like Hitachi have tried to make this type of thing work, never with any success. Almost all new cars have stepper motors working a valve on a lead screw. Reliable, but more complicated.
The idle stabilizer valve is a rotary valve that allows air to bypass the throttle valve and raise or lower the idle speed of the engine. See the photo below for location details.
The idle speed is raised during the warm up period of the engine and the idle speed is maintained depending on changes in load. Increased load from the alternator when the lights are turned on, and increased load from the A/C compressor cycling will change the amount the idle stabilizer valve is opened. The rotary valve is cycled with a DC voltage which will cause the motor armature to work against a return spring. The duty cycle of this DC voltage determines the position of the rotary valve and the amount of the opening to allow air to pass through.
The idle stabilizer valve can also stick from oil/crud built up inside and this can cause idle problems. Removing the ISV and cleaning it with carb cleaner may help.
===========
The "idle stabilizer" is a variable valve that controls the air flow into the engine at idle. Most are made by Bosch and are "torque motors" - what looks like an electric motor, but with the armature constrained by a clock spring so it can only rotate about 1/4 rev. It is attached to a rotary valve that controls the air flow. More current means more rotation, hence more air flow and the idle speeds up. Problem is the clearance in the valve is very small and small dirt particles can cause friction. The computer says "speed up" and applies more current, but the motor sticks. Engine slows down more, more current is applied and suddenly it breaks loose, opens too far, computer reduces current, valve sticks open, well you get the picture. Result: idle surge, sometimes enough to stall, always annoying. Others like Hitachi have tried to make this type of thing work, never with any success. Almost all new cars have stepper motors working a valve on a lead screw. Reliable, but more complicated.
10-22-2002, 01:46 PM
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Well after many attempts to clean and get my stabalizer to work, I finally got ticked at it and drilled out the rivets. Theres a 4 inch flat bar in ther with wires coiled around it. I am guessuing to turn it into a magnet when current is supplyed. Well the coil wires were rusted together in some areas and pushed apart in others from the expanding insulation. Played with it for a little while then gave up. Maybe later..
Thurston.
Thurston.
.
