Pod Dash lights so dim. What happening
#17
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Boca Raton Fl to Portland ME
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Thanks All, I'll try to fix it soon. Wow My to do list is getting long Ahhhh! Well I better find some time and some money that doesn't have my schools name on it. AHHHHH!!
I need to see the dash at night Right?..... Right. Thanks Guys
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#18
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Erik, james Randy, Dave,
Thanks for all the tips. When Pattycakes pod comes out for recovering - only 1 - 6" crack but, why wait? - next week I'll get to play around some more.
While in there:
1. Has anyone figured out those wires from the Radio post were? I taped the connectors on mine.
Just curious.
2.When I did the radio install I checked all vacuum lines to the Climate Control head. Both the soft lines and the connections to those factory(smaller) hardlines further in. Also function checked the dashpots(?)/vacuum actuators.
Checked all vacuum lines from the distributor on back, including fenderwell walls/firewall/and behind the inspection panels in the aft. fenderwells. Everthing that could be reached prior to disappearing under the intake.
Other than a piece of plastic rattle in the control head and a loose feeling slider control- the ****/tab itself feels like its on a hinge its so loose- nothing seems to be wrong. Yet I still, on rare occasions, have the mystery sauna effect!
Control head ?
3.I'd also like to check out the cruise control system. Pointers welcome, short cuts very welcome!
4. Replace all reachable bulbs and general dusting.
Thanks in advance.
John S. and Pattycakes
Now where are those rocks I was supposed to bang together?
Thanks for all the tips. When Pattycakes pod comes out for recovering - only 1 - 6" crack but, why wait? - next week I'll get to play around some more.
While in there:
1. Has anyone figured out those wires from the Radio post were? I taped the connectors on mine.
Just curious.
2.When I did the radio install I checked all vacuum lines to the Climate Control head. Both the soft lines and the connections to those factory(smaller) hardlines further in. Also function checked the dashpots(?)/vacuum actuators.
Checked all vacuum lines from the distributor on back, including fenderwell walls/firewall/and behind the inspection panels in the aft. fenderwells. Everthing that could be reached prior to disappearing under the intake.
Other than a piece of plastic rattle in the control head and a loose feeling slider control- the ****/tab itself feels like its on a hinge its so loose- nothing seems to be wrong. Yet I still, on rare occasions, have the mystery sauna effect!
Control head ?
3.I'd also like to check out the cruise control system. Pointers welcome, short cuts very welcome!
4. Replace all reachable bulbs and general dusting.
Thanks in advance.
John S. and Pattycakes
Now where are those rocks I was supposed to bang together?
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#19
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John:
When I bought the car - in August - , the drive home was quite steamy, as the HVAC had defaulted to the hot/defrost state.
Yeah, it could be the control head. I'm gonna risk pointing out the obvious here, but...
My cruise was toast at the same time for two reasons. Heater control valve didn't hold vacuum and the vacuum check valve from the brake booster was bad.
If by "full sauna" you mean full heat independent of temp setting, and not magic blower, my experience sends me first to the heater control valve and rel. vacuum connections. The valve fails in the open position, full heat, so occasional vacuum loss would do that.
The little $1.98 check valve was a continuing problem for me even after I replaced the valve. It would hold vacuum sometimes and sometimes go on strike, taking the cruise and temp control down with it.
One control valve and one blue check valve later, cruise and temp are fine. Worth a look.
(haveta say, though, I spent a bunch of time checking the spaghetti under the dash as well. It just LOOKS like the problem
When I bought the car - in August - , the drive home was quite steamy, as the HVAC had defaulted to the hot/defrost state.
Yeah, it could be the control head. I'm gonna risk pointing out the obvious here, but...
My cruise was toast at the same time for two reasons. Heater control valve didn't hold vacuum and the vacuum check valve from the brake booster was bad.
If by "full sauna" you mean full heat independent of temp setting, and not magic blower, my experience sends me first to the heater control valve and rel. vacuum connections. The valve fails in the open position, full heat, so occasional vacuum loss would do that.
The little $1.98 check valve was a continuing problem for me even after I replaced the valve. It would hold vacuum sometimes and sometimes go on strike, taking the cruise and temp control down with it.
One control valve and one blue check valve later, cruise and temp are fine. Worth a look.
(haveta say, though, I spent a bunch of time checking the spaghetti under the dash as well. It just LOOKS like the problem
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#20
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Heh Brittany,
Hope you have been able to get that road rocket to fly better! How's it goin?
<img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />
<img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
<img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
<img src="graemlins/sleep.gif" border="0" alt="[sleep]" />
Hope you have been able to get that road rocket to fly better! How's it goin?
<img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />
<img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
<img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
<img src="graemlins/sleep.gif" border="0" alt="[sleep]" />