Brittany Chen Li

Peace to you all. I really love all your help I printed this all out and will use it all. I'll pretend you are all there watching me work and encoraging me. Hand me the 13mm Jerry. Pass me the rag Sley. Hold the light a little closer Randy without looking down my shirt! Thom,Greg and Steve you better save some of that food for me. Thanks Again it was fun.
Randy!!! Watch it!

Thom1

Hi Brittany,

Good Luck with your projects. Looks like you have plenty to do. Let us know how you fare. Don't be shy about asking questions. We are glad to help. See Greg Nichol's site for, I think, the best tips reference site.

I keep updating some documents for utility, clarity, etc. So, here is my latest revision of content supplied in my last post on this thread:

Synthetic Fluids Plus:

Synthetics:
Mobil 1 has a good rep, and is less expensive than most - $5-6/qt for ATF and motor oil, $7/qt for gear oil: Use the “ATF” for power steering, and automatic transmission; use the “75w-90” weight gear oil for timing belt tensioner and rear end. Castrol Synthetic Blend motor oil is good. The blend is about half the price of the 100% synthetic - $2.6/qt. I have heard that you can change oil less frequently with synthetics. Use Valvoline synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease. (Prices are for 2002.)

Non-Synthetics:
Distilled water may be the most important fluid in the radiator. Water impurities can react with aluminum, and etch it. Porsche recommends that only approved phosphate and propylene glycol free antifreeze, such as Autobahn and Mercedes Benz, or Zerex Extreme 450 be used in their aluminum engines. Prestone has worked well for me; but the new Prestone Dexcool can actually harm older cars. Use ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid, alternate flushes with Gold. It is German with a high boiling point.

Replace caliper and master cylinder bleeder valves with check valve type (speed bleeder) for easier bleeding. Crush washers for the differential fill and drain plugs were 17mm id.

Thom1

Hi again Brittany,

I reread this entire post, and it sounds like you probably have a vacuum problem on the transmission problem. That can be good news. The transmission vacuum line goes into a 6 or 7 sided female connector. Any vacuum lines that are not connected well there can cause real problems. This spider-like rubber piece is below the air filter box, in the valley. But first, get a vacuum pump with a gauge on it. Pull the vacuum line that goes to the brake booster from the 4 pointed female connector just in front of and below the booster. Connect to the 4 pointer. Pump it up. If it won't hold vacuum, e.g. the needle on the gauge falls back to zero almost immediately, fix vacuum leaks.

Brittany Chen Li

Cool now I'll print this out. And work on that soon. Can I rent a vac pump from the auto parts store. i'll check sometime this weekendI got a photo shoot Sat Sunday I'll Check. Thanks Again Peace, Britt

Thom1

Mine was under $30 from Auto Zone. They usually have the best tool prices in NC. I glued a couple of hoses into a juice drink bottle cap so I can use it to pump out fluids from power steering pump reservoir, etc. Then I just dispose of the dirty bottle after recycling the oil. Not a bad investment.

Now let's see if the #1 home town boys (Duke) beat #3 Maryland!