SHunter

I have encountered a problem with the door locks on my 87S4. They have been working properly until the other day when I tried to lock the drivers side with the key. The drivers door locked....then unlocked. Ok....soooo....I go around to the passenger side and lock the door with the key and everything works fine. Hmmmm....then I get in the car and lock the doors using the central locking button. The drivers door again locks then unlocks. The only thing I can see is that the passenger lock post goes further into its hole than the drivers side does when it is locked.

Can anyone offer a fix?

Looks like one motor is not getting the correct feedback from the other motor.

Is this wild *** guess correct? If so, what is the best way to fix the problem?

Thanks

Steve Hunter
cyber5-0@swbell.net
87 928S4

Nicole

I have seen this on my first 928, an '88 S4 with the motorized door locks. I could not lock the car from the passenger side or with the button.

It turned out that an adjustment was necessary on the drivers side door lock. It required taking the door panel off and shifting/adjusting some part of the linkage. Unfortunately I can't give you more details. It has been five years or so...

Try what happens when you move the key all the way to the limit of the door lock, instead of just moving it until the motors close the locks.

Best of luck!

2V4V

Steve,

If your dooe locks are fully functional (from a mechanical standpoint) the first thing I would look at would be the fuses. They are located on the top of the fuse panel. The fuses are in the plastic 'in line' type fuse holders. You may have blown one, which can cause the symptomology you describe.

HTH,
Greg

John Struthers

Steve,
If you didn't post this awhile back here or on 928OC then there is a twin out there somewhere.
The cure should be in the archives, one or the other.
Another possibility, though I would lean toward Greg's fuse fix.
If you or a previous owner has molested the manual lock ****:
1. There is a nylon mount block behind the **** tightened down by two screws. If to much force is applied the block can shift and you have a binding situation in the linkage. This may, or may not trigger the ghost as you are, both, binding and either shortening or lengthening the operating rod.
2. This one has me baffeled: When I popped the center cap off the lock **** there was a square shaft with a threaded end. At the end of the shaft is a nut and washer holding the outer gusset-the big round plastic piece -. That piece has a threaded center hole which pulls the piece into the door panel.
In any case, the threaded end of the shaft, the self-locking nut attached was broken off.
But everything is a pretty snug fit and I don't think anything could get loose and bind the shaft/linkage. It is in the center of that nylon block, though.
I'd still go with Greg's plan first. If nothing else it's easier.
The Nickol's site (we need to do something for him by the way, his site is a treasure) has the dissassembly procedure for the door panel. If you have to go this route and run into problems start a new post so I'll catch it and actually be of some assistance for a change. Wach out for those Minahuenies(sp).
John S. and Pattycakes

SHunter

Ok..Ok...Here is what I did: I tried Nicoles advise on turning the key all the way to its maximum point and all the locks work fine now!! Now, the BIG question is WHY???? Was I not turning the key properly before?? It seems to be an easy task to turn a key Or, by turning the key all the way did it pull up some slack in the door lock mechanism??

Thanks for the help

Steve Hunter
cyber5-0@swbell.net
87 928 S4

Nicole

If you don't turn it all the way, the system seems to think this one lock is not properly locked, and then unlocks itself.

Have you tried using the switch in the center console? If it still unlocks itself after closing it with the switch, you will have to make some adjustments.

John Struthers

Steve,
Do the flip side of Nicole's quick cure.
Turn the key to the lock position...wait until the locks cycle closed,
then gently, yet, firmly turn a little more.
If the ghost returns refer to #1 in my post above. In any case, you may be able to do Nicole's cure again for a temporary fix.
lol/hth
John S. and Pattycakes

John Struthers

Steve,
Glomming thru Greg Nichols site over something else when......
Another possibility...
Try this(its easy) partially open drivers door, lock door. If it cycles back open the door jamb pressure switch is working. That little $10.. switch does more than signal the interior lights and the red marker lights to turn on/off. It also tells the lock that the door is ajar and forces you to secure all doors. Spiffy, huh?
So, if it isn't the fuses, and it acts up again try adjusting the jamb switch out a little at a time. If that cures the problem, even though it might be the nylon mount block out of adjustment, it might save you the aggrevation of pulling the door panel.
John S. and Pattycakes

Thom1

Hi Steve,

It might be a good time to deburr the edges of your key.

SHunter

Thanks everyone for your help. Looks like I will be pulling the door panels because when I push the central locking system the drivers side still locks then unlocks. I want to replace the door stays anyway so now is a good time as any to do this. May replace the speakers while I am in there. Hmmm...?? Can anyone else think of things to check while I have the door panels off??

Thanks again

S.Hunter
cyber5-0@swbell.net
87 928 S4

Jerry 87 928S4

You can install the sound proofing like I did, it really made a difference covering the entire inside of the door.

I just replaced the door arrestors also so if you need any help, let me know. First one was tough to figure out since you can not see the two inside bolts but second was a breeze.

2V4V

Steve,

Now would be an excellent time to rebuild your window if it rattles at all. I would look at the plastic bushings on the guide tube, and the felt guides at the top of the window.

HTH,

Greg

John Struthers

Did you check those plunger switches?
If they are out of adjustment it wouldn't matter wether you used the key, switch, or ****. It wouldn't necessarily trigger the door ajar warning. Besides it would save you the hassel of door surgery.
John S. and Pattycakes