jpitman2

The stuff in the picture is different from mine (I dont see a T in the pic or the valve or the 6 adapters listed), but the text lists a valve and adpaters, and the price looks about right, so I think thats the right set. You need to be able to shut of the gas from the WUR side of the gauge so you can measure system pressure. You can do the delivery volume test easily with a hose off the return line into a large pop bottle and a bridged pump relay, so I cant think of any other testers needed for CIS, except maybe a CO2 exhaust sensor, but these are usually pretty costly AFAIK. I suggest you make a switched relay bridger - 2 core flex long enough to reach the engine bay from the fuse board, with spade tags on one end to put in the relay socket, and a momentary switch at the other so you can test fuel flow and prime safely from the front, and turn pump off quickly if there is a problem.
After I pulled my tank and replaced it the first time I also wore down the battery trying to start it. Next time the tank came out and back in, I bridged the pump relay to check for leaks, and after that primed the system, it started first hit, so try that. Nothing drives me nuts more than repeated cranking and getting nowhere.
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k.

928ntslow

Cool. but how do I test the CO2?

jpitman2

Usually only service places will have CO (not CO2) sensors, big $$ items I think. Once you are running again, if you think mixture is off, get it tuned by somebody with the right gear who knows CIS. If you havent played with the adjustment on the air flow meter, you should be close if pressures are correct.
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k