Ok, Murfies, need your help!

Given the several month lag time it usually takes me to actually DO something to my car, I have plenty of time to plan out the next big project, which is boost. I'd like to compile the complete, idiot-proofed list of all the bits one needs to have on hand to completely install the system. Just for grins, let's say cost is no object ( it actually is, of course, but let's get the whole package down on paper).

This needs to be as stock-appearing as possible (outside of the engine compartment, of course), and be revertable to stock for smog purposes. Here's my tentative recipe for boost:

-1 1990GT extensively mechanically refreshed, except for head gaskets and rod bearings. New TB/WP, intake rubber, fuel lines, engine electronics, clutch/PP, TT, front and rear suspension bits

1 Murf Stage 1 kit, auxillary fan

Extra rad hose and reservoir hose to cut down to length

1 Sharktuner

1 wideband O2 sensor - preferred model/source?

1 Dell 8200 laptop running XP, has a serial and parallel port

1 EPROM burner- preferred model?

Some 28 pin EPROMS

1 modified console panel to house boost and AFR gauges in place of rear A/C

1 Boost gauge- will a VDO 944 Turbo gauge work? Want to keep as stock-appearing as possible

1 AFR gauge- Round, or is there someone modifiying the Central locking panel with the LED gauges? What's the source for those?

If AFR can be relocated, other gauges- oil temp, ????

1 local dyno shop for Sharktuning (how else to fill all the 'cells'?)


Please add what I've missed, what you'd do different if you could do it again, etc. I'm sure there's more in the 2nd half of the Murf instructions, plus the million things I haven't thought about......

 

Suspension, brakes and rubber, imo.
I think those might be my old D90's in your avatar

 

Nah, your D90's are in the garage, the avatar is a CS rim. Shoulda bought the D90's directly from you....

EDIT: Ok, so add GTS brakes, Clubsport springs and Boge sports, and some 18" hollow spoke Turbo twists. Check.

 

Have you run this past the wife yet?

 

Yes. It's all her money, so she'd figure it out anyway. It's easier to be up front about it. She did roll her eyes when the parts expenditures passed up the initial purchase price of the car, tho.....

 

Time to buy some bifocals.
Yes, suspension will make it easier to use your new power

 

I want a ride when its done..where does the line form?

 

Rob-

In all honesty, I think you should just go to the Stage 3. Here's why...

1. You're going to want more boost... trust me on this one.
2. Once you're tuned up, you won't need the sharktuner anymore. I think Murph has an option for a custom set of chips for his stage 3 - or is it included? Look into that. Once it's tuned, as long as you don't change anything... you should be good to go. Dump the money from the STer into going up to the Stage 3.
3. I think this will be easier to revert back to stock as you use the stock fuel system (except for injectors). I believe both the Stage 1 and the Stage 2 rely on an FMU that will have to be de-installed when you convert back to stock. Alright... so maybe it only takes a few minutes to take the FMU off, but it's a good excuse to go for a higher level of boost!
4. It's the Snizzle Fa Zizzle!

If you go to the stage 3, depending on the age of the clutch you might want to factor that in too. Oh yeah, then there's tires and wheels to get the power down!

There... That ought to keep your brain busy for a while!

 

New head gaskets?

 

Andrew/Carl-

Good points, though I'm not sure about 11 psi on stock headgaskets. And the FMU's easier to R&R than the injectors. Besides, unlike you, I don't have a basement to spread my engine pieces around in all winter long...... I also like the idea of having a tuning map that's safe for the pseudo-premium we drink on the west coast.

Before any boosting, I will get the car as shipshape as possible. I may take it to Greg Brown for a PostPI and see what I've messed up as I've been restoring. She runs well to me but I really have no idea. Perhaps a baseline dyno is in order.

 

Good idea to get running as well as possible before s/c.
Factor in a recon MAF if you did not already do that

Marton

 

For completeness sake, I've replaced or refurbished in the last 2000 miles:

TB/WP, all sprockets, all vacuum, coolant, power steering, fuel and breather lines
All intake, valve cover, oilpan gaskets, FMS, oil pump seal
All coolant, brake, tranny, PSD fluids flushed & changed
LH brain, MAF, fuel injectors, sparkplugs, knock sensors, ISV, TPS, Hall sensor
Steering rack/tie rods

Still to do:
Shocks/springs/wheel bearings/02 sensor/TT/RMS/clutch/PP/CV boots/ball joint boots

Should seriously consider: Head gaskets/rod bearings/big *** brakes/???

 

Hey Rob, leave Greg Brown alone - he needs to start work on my 6.5L motor!

 

I'll be keeping him busy with my car come late december....you'll get your engine,....someday. :-)

 

yeah---

lots of stuff done, but you didn't O-ring the heads, port and polish, port match, unshroud the valves, 5 angle valve job.......

you've got lots of work to do------

---Russ