Torque Wrench Tutorial
Kind of a newbie question. I haven't had cause to use one, but suspect I will as a T-belt and h20 pump is in the works. I know there are two types, I understand the "needle" type doesn't need calibrating so thought that would be best for my needs. Is it as simple as it looks, just tighten til needle reaches the spec'd number? Anything else I should know before I plunk down $50? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
I suggest you buy two. One for light torque applications, like oil pans and AT filter screws. Another for high torque, like suspension bolts. I prefer the ratchet type over the "needle and beam" type. I suggest dual scales showing both pound-feet and newton-meters. Don't buy the cheapest and store them properly if you want them to remain accurate. LOL
How you use the wrench is important, too. The needle types have a pivoting handle so that you dont put any torque with your wrist.
With the ratchet ones, you have no way of knowing if they are reading correct or not unless you have it periodically calibrated. They are much nicer, though, if you are trying to torque something somewhere where you cant look directly at the wrench.
With the ratchet ones, you have no way of knowing if they are reading correct or not unless you have it periodically calibrated. They are much nicer, though, if you are trying to torque something somewhere where you cant look directly at the wrench.
. . . if you are trying to torque something somewhere where you cant look directly at the wrench"
and that would be the case, would it not, when torqueing the crank nut? Thanks.
and that would be the case, would it not, when torqueing the crank nut? Thanks.
Yea and wheels are a little tough too. You can see the wrench but you have to lean over in an akward position.
BTW I have a needle type craftsman that works great and I've used for years. I also have a 3/8 ratchet style from MAC tools that has the ratchet mechanism worn out. MAC told me that I am SOL regarding geting the wrench fixed because they no longer keep the repair parts. So much for lifetime.
BTW I have a needle type craftsman that works great and I've used for years. I also have a 3/8 ratchet style from MAC tools that has the ratchet mechanism worn out. MAC told me that I am SOL regarding geting the wrench fixed because they no longer keep the repair parts. So much for lifetime.
I own the "break Away" ratcheting type. All types should be calibrated periodically. Most times, when you buy tools, like anything else, you get what you pay for. There are conversion charts for converting n.m. to ft.lbs and in.lbs. If you can afford not to "scrimp" on the torque wrenches, invest in quality, they will last you a lifetime with proper use and a little maintenence. I own four wrenches. 3/4 in., 1/2 in., 3/8 in., and 1/4 in.. You won't need to buy all of them at one time, but if you do any serious "wrenching" you will eventually need them all. When torquing, work up to the desired torque in steps. When it "Clicks" once, don't re-click it several more times. "Remember aluminum (threads)are much less forgiving than steel. Always store the wrench at the lowest setting or "0". Clean it after every use. Avoid dropping them. Don't loosen fasteners with it. If over or under values are suspected, loosen the fastener (with the appropriate wrench) and start over. I am very **** on this subject, and apologize if I appear extreme, but doing it right the first time should be everyone's goal!
Good Luck with the T/belt, W/pump R&R. Hopefully you won't find problems left from previous "hack jobs", like I found.
Anthony Tate
79/928 Silver Metallic <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Good Luck with the T/belt, W/pump R&R. Hopefully you won't find problems left from previous "hack jobs", like I found.
Anthony Tate
79/928 Silver Metallic <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />



