gf261

First of all, thanks to all of you, especially Alan, who helped me through my wiring harness problem. Alan, I wound up drilling a small hole in the firewall just above the stock placement of the wiring harness routing. I found a grommet to fit, ran the replacement wire and sealed it up with silicone. I re-wrapped the entire harness with some stuff called Xtreme tape. It is silicone based, bonds to itself as it cures, water tight and heat resistant to 600F. Overflow tank and washer fluid filler neck back in place and it looks like new. New ignition coil will be ordered tomorrow. I am going to pull the blower motor and air recirc flap while the CE panel is out of the way and get it all cleaned out.
Any more WYAIT's anyone can suggest while I'm there?
While buttoning up under the hood today, I located a couple of concerns.

1. On my 87' (sold by the way, need to change my avatar) I had replaced the heater valve to stop the hot air flow into the car. In the first pic below, is this the heater valve? I thought I remembered my 87' running toward the firewall on the passenger compartment side of the hose. This one runs into the wheel well area.
2. The second picture is looking down between the cooling fans and the block on the passenger side. the blurry third one is a closer shot of same. Obviously this bolt shouldn't be hanging out with the washer flopping loose. Also, the belt around the associated pully is VERY loose. Is this the tensioning bolt for whatever part this is?
3. Last pic, what is this and what does it do?
Thanks in advance everyone!!!!

the flyin' scotsman

1) Charcoal cannister valve
2) Air pump bracket
3) ABS sensor connection

If you remove the lower air filter housing you'll find the hot water valve.

Lizard928

well malcolm your close.
right on #1,
#2 is the pivot bolt for the airpump, this should be tightened down.
#3 is for holding the ABS speed sensor, and brake pad sensor connectors. You will find one of these near every wheel.

the flyin' scotsman

Been so long without an air puimp I was going from memory.

Mrmerlin

the bolt is for the pivot on the airpump, the adjuster for belt tension is under the where the bolt is sticking out. It looks like the bolt has come out of its threaded area, you may have to move the pump housing a bit to get it back into its threads.
Your heater control valve is under the air cleaner so yes remove the top and lower portions and you will see it, plain as day, also consider replacing the short hose when you replace the heater valve.
With the black connector housings (ABS/BRAKE sensors)in the engine compartment you may find that the white or what was white parts of the connectors are cracking, due to heat it is best not to disturb the car harness side of these connectors, the other side however has wire harnesses that are replaceable, and the go to each wheel, not sure of the cost

gf261

Thanks guys for your input. Per Malcolm's statement, is the air pump a non-vital part?

the flyin' scotsman

Not sure of the laws state by state but here in Alberta, Canada there's no mandatory inspection or tests for emissions.

I believe modern cats can be fitted with an X to replace that section of the exhaust system without requireing the air pump to feed them and the emissons performance is better than stock. You may want to check locally; perhaps someone will chime in and advise further.

worf928

In your third picture the extra 'hole' in the connector housing is used for the RDK (tire pressure monitoring) system on 90 to 93.5 models. One hole for ABS. One for pad wear sensors. And one for RDK.

gf261

Thanks Malcolm and Dave. It's always cool to learn something new here.